If you can get one made, go for it. Otherwise, I'd opt for the best value of known quality and fitment.

 

well what the best thing to do?

 

instead of piecing together an exhaust... just sell what you have and get a true-dual and at the ''muffler shop'' you say about get them to weld in an X pipe....

 

I had a true dual and didn't like it. I'm talking about a y pipe not a x pipe. What tome asking the differance in design not going to make it or break it in hp. I just want to know if it really worth spending half a grand on a y pipe

 

You have to pay to play. You've already answered your own question, you decide whether it's 'worth' it.

 

O i fully understand the if i wanna play i got to pay but what im saying is the does design make it or break it? like megan got like a V-pipe (looking y-pipe) while motord..nye has more of the stock looking y pipe bend but bigger piping. I honestly think this be a good question to be asked because people will know what wil be the better design to go with V or Y pipe.

 

For all practical purposes, it's all the same. Bell curves and whatnot tend to favor one type of design at different ranges in the powerband. Assuming both inlets and outlets are identical, flow resistance will happen around the same point.

Don't spend a fortune on something that's largely irrelevant to regular purpose and spirited driving. If it was some form of motorsport with a podium finish on the line, then you want the exact pipe designed for your exact purpose.

Any aftermarket Y-Pipe with 2.5x2->3.0in, will net largely similar gains in your case. Sure the Motordyne pipe would be nice to have, as I'm sure quality and fitment is great, but if theres something out there that gets 90% of the performance for half the cost....

 

first you don't want to create unnecessary restrictions... so if your exhaust is a 3" piping and the stock Y pipe outlet is 2.5".. that needs to be changed.

than, as T_K said, unless you're for racing where everything matters... 5hp more or less is something that you cannot notice on a 300hp car.

and there is something else to consider when you get an exhaust... that could affect the overall performance of the car.
weight.

let's assume you have your 3300 lbs (stock) Z... with 260whp
you put a single titanium exhaust, test pipes, Y pipe and so on.. and you shave 70lbs from the car... or you put an hks true dual and you add 20lbs to the car...but the hks gives you 5whp more than the single exhaust...

let say you go at 280 with the single and 285 with the dual. is a massive 25% gain in comparison...

but...
11.53 lbs/whp for the lighter one
11.65 lbs/whp for the heavier one...

and those 90lbs difference will affect your car dynamics more than 5 whp that are going (maybe) to show only at high speed where aerodynamic drag is more important that weight.

 

Man. you guys getting me confused on what i should do lol. So if i can aford the xyz pipe go for it but if i want something that middle price and get about 90% of the performance then go with a cheaper brand. The goal on my car is it try to be as close to achieving Looks/Weight reduction/ Perfomance and get the most power down to the ground. I hope this help with what you guys recommend.

 

look, you already removed performance from your car adding the subwoofer, amplifier and the enclosure... you'll probably never hit a road course... so what's the point? get a Y pipe that matches your test pipe outlets and the catback inlet diameter.

90% of the XYZ pipe (if it really gives that "plus") means maybe 0.5 WHP less.

 

Dude you can pick up a AAM Y pipe for like 360 bucks those i heard are pretty good

 

my brother has the aam y pipe he keeps getting gasket leaks :/. I have thought about it. Also like i said with solo, i decided to look up his stock dyno to his tune dyno: https://my350z.com/forum/vq35hr/4032...-a-week-4.html

Stock 261hp and 266hp with tune :/ or does he just have a great HR and i have a avarage HR? O wells im going to get intakes next and tune see were that takes me. Ya, i know i have already loosed a little performance with the audio but hey i love my audio what can i say lol.

 

https://my350z.com/forum/6955073-post176.html

He updated his dyno with just HFC + Tune. Total mods would then be K&N filter, with HFC, all tuned. The car made 273whp. You made just under 275. Are you ready to buy a Y-Pipe yet? My theory isn't just pulled out of thin air. Theres a lot of potential for power locked up in the OEM exhaust on the HR 350Z. OEM Y-Pipe's largest point is 2.5in after the merge. The car makes over 300hp. Horsepower is directly proportional to the amount of air the engine is displacing over a period of time. 300hp is 300hp, whether its on a 3.5L VQ or a 5.7L LS1. Try to find a single piped 2.5in exhaust for an LS1.

 

yeah but it seems as though the biggest margins are around peak and peak was a whole 8whp difference.

 

well he isn't exactly highly modified either.. so don't expect him to make monster gains

 

O i totally missed that :/ Well i guess that really does answer my question and proves your theory on the Y-Pipe. I guess next mod will be intakes and then Y-pipe. I wanna see how much a restriction is going to cause and do a before and after dyno so people can see so we wont have this mess again and have actual proof(well at least more visual proof with a bigger number to show )! Either way it comes out im spending close to a grand for the Ypipe and breathing mod.

 

Motordyne XYZ pipe is what you should use... Your running a single 3 inch? I thought a 2.5 inch yould be ideal for the Z.. I have GTM test pipes, stock y pipe and the tanabe medallion cat back exhaust. I need to replace the Y because I have a HORRIBLE rattle snake noise comming from the flex pipes. Get CAI's and a Y and get re-tuned.

 

Why does the exhaust neck down to 2.25"?

 

N/A 2L 4 cyl's use 2.5 inch exhausts, why the hell would the Z use such a small exhaust at 75% more displacement?