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VQ35DE/HR.. What's the most power they will hold?

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Old 05-19-2011, 04:57 AM
  #21  
Ataru074
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reality is that you can have a stock engine on a completely stock car fail way before the 60K mark if you abuse it. (track days and so on...)
than you have 2 kind of mods for the engine: safety/reliability and performance.
the first have to usually be performed before or at the same time of the second... thing that USUALLY doesn't start happening until people grenade the "first" engine and see the repair bill.

bottom line... depends on the use, the weather (heat is a bitsh) and the brain of the owner.
Old 05-19-2011, 06:26 AM
  #22  
AadosX
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Originally Posted by Phenom
450? I dunno dude. I know several ST and TT DE guys that stay in the high 300's. I always thought once you reach 400whp you're flirting with distaster. The HR though I've heard can handle 500+ without much cause for concern.
Maybe you're right.. so 400 whp for DE and 500 for HR?

My friend was at 475 for months though and drives like a maniac.. but there are always those freaks ya know..
Old 05-19-2011, 01:27 PM
  #23  
doshoru
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Also gotta consider that dyno differences could come into play. 475 on a high-reading dyno vs 400 on a low reading dyno. Either way, you should be careful once you near/breach 400whp.
Old 05-19-2011, 08:53 PM
  #24  
AadosX
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True but this was a Dynojet, what I would call a "normal" reading dyno. =P
Old 05-19-2011, 10:32 PM
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my hr on stock internals was holding great at 530 (DJ reading) wanted to push it and see how long itd last but filled up with some contaminated gas and ruined that plan>.>
Old 05-19-2011, 10:33 PM
  #26  
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and for the budget your looking to spend id get a de do a vortech with the 3.12 pulleys and a clutch and call it a day
Old 05-20-2011, 12:03 AM
  #27  
Barnabas
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All of you spouting off HP numbers are forgetting something... The rods are the weak point in our motors (DE) TQ is what kills the rods. The HP number doesnt mean a whole lot.

The general number I have seen with all my research+ MY stock block TT setup (445whp 396tq jwt 530bb) it has been shown over and over again 400 is round-about the threshold for the rods. Sure some have run higher, allot depends on how the Tq kicks in, others have run lower and grenaded blocks but that is usually related to a bad tune.

I dont DD my car, but I can go out and start it up whenever I want, go thrash it, track it, drift it, beat on it all day long put it away and do it again whenever I want too. Doing all the supporting mods is just as important as everything else. Some of mysetup may very well be overkill but at least I have no headaches or worries just smiles when I turn the key
Old 05-20-2011, 06:56 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Barnabas
All of you spouting off HP numbers are forgetting something... The rods are the weak point in our motors (DE) TQ is what kills the rods. The HP number doesnt mean a whole lot.
Interesting.. I didn't know this. It was the same way on my last car as well (VW GTI 1.8T). So in that case a bigger turbo running less boost would probably be ideal so that the TQ doesn't come on so fast and "spike." Or a supercharger. =)
Old 05-20-2011, 03:50 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by AadosX
Interesting.. I didn't know this. It was the same way on my last car as well (VW GTI 1.8T). So in that case a bigger turbo running less boost would probably be ideal so that the TQ doesn't come on so fast and "spike." Or a supercharger. =)
no not really.... get a good tune and none of that stuff will matter. I run gt25r's which are "small' hit full boost at 2800rpm and there are plenty of others who have seen long life with the same setups. the Tune is the most important thing, then running effective power.

The larger turbo with later spool will actually not give you any benefits, nor will it lower your boost levels to see the same amount of power.

Turbo's are more efficient, more versatile, give you room to grow, and IMO are a better way to go FI then S/C. Now its up to you to decide what Turbo kit to go with
Old 05-23-2011, 11:31 AM
  #30  
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I was runing 10 pounds of nitrous and a 75 shot of boost and that put me at about 475hp to the wheels.

So far ive been at around 10k miles and counting and the motor is legit breh...

ill sell you my kit for 2400 bucks br0, lmk
Old 05-23-2011, 12:02 PM
  #31  
midz350
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Originally Posted by Junkster
I was runing 10 pounds of nitrous and a 75 shot of boost and that put me at about 475hp to the wheels.

So far ive been at around 10k miles and counting and the motor is legit breh...

ill sell you my kit for 2400 bucks br0, lmk
Old 05-23-2011, 12:05 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by midz350
Old 06-23-2011, 09:59 AM
  #33  
SV1098
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Originally Posted by Junkster
I was runing 10 pounds of nitrous and a 75 shot of boost and that put me at about 475hp to the wheels.

So far ive been at around 10k miles and counting and the motor is legit breh...

ill sell you my kit for 2400 bucks br0, lmk
Old 06-23-2011, 10:27 AM
  #34  
KingBaby
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10lbs bottle? Or 10 psi from a turbo kit plus 75 shot?

I R Comfused

Lmao

Where's the OP
Old 06-23-2011, 10:41 AM
  #35  
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LOL
Old 06-23-2011, 10:50 AM
  #36  
tonyzS/C03
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Originally Posted by Barnabas
All of you spouting off HP numbers are forgetting something... The rods are the weak point in our motors (DE) TQ is what kills the rods. The HP number doesnt mean a whole lot.
I was wondering when someone was going to hit on this... HP is s%$T without the TQ to get you there, and thats what really does a number on your internals. I've seen ppl run 400+ ft/lbs and be fine, my first build on a DE was at just over 300 and i popped my motor

I also agree that if your looking to build on a budget go with a Vortech and the 3.12 pully, a re-flash, some injectors (440's probably) and an intank Walbro 255... make about 350-375 on a DE motor all day long and have no driveability issues. GL with the build OP

Last edited by tonyzS/C03; 06-23-2011 at 11:12 AM.
Old 06-23-2011, 11:16 AM
  #37  
Dan@Assaultech
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Originally Posted by tonyzS/C03
I was wondering when someone was going to hit on this... HP is s%$T without the TQ to get you there, and thats what really does a number on your internals. I've seen ppl run 400+ ft/lbs and be fine, my first build on a DE was at just over 300 and i popped my motor

I also agree that if your looking to build on a budget go with a Vortech and the 3.12 pully, a re-flash, some injectors (440's probably) and an intank Walbro 255... make about 350-375 on a DE motor all day long and have no driveability issues. GL with the build OP
Well said, Vortech is the way to go for the most power on a stock block. Keep it around 400whp and you will stay reliable and have plenty of power.

Give us a shout if you want a Vortech kit.
Old 06-23-2011, 11:24 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by KingBaby
10lbs bottle? Or 10 psi from a turbo kit plus 75 shot?

I R Comfused

Lmao

Where's the OP
Sarcasm post has too much sarcasm!

lol
Old 08-08-2011, 05:05 AM
  #39  
drdave2387
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Or if you want a budget Nissan for the track just buy a 240sx and drop an LS motor in it with cam, headers and exhaust, maybe even a FAST intake and call it a day...much cheaper...if you got deep pockets for a turbo build why not spend another 3500 and source parts and build the motor yourself too...
Old 09-20-2011, 10:49 PM
  #40  
SalmanZ
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Originally Posted by dave079
Budget and FI build on a Z shouldnt be used in the same sentence.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t6bAZ...layer_embedded
I literally laughed until my stomach hurt


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