hypeiv

iTrader: (2)

I am starting to look into buying a new set of wheels for my car since I really want to replace my tires anyway... figure I should look into getting a different size wheel while I am at it.

As far as prices go I have seen them all over the place. I am sure as with most things you get what you pay for. But before I make a huge investment I would like to know where my extra money is going if I go with a more expensive wheel. Thanks for the info.

Chris@DTD

iTrader: (1)

Q. What Are the Different Methods of Making Wheels?
A. In today's marketplace, two wheel materials are most common, steel and aluminum. Steel wheels are made in two pieces; the inner piece (called the center) that bolts on to the car, and the barrel (or outer) which receives the tire. The two pieces are welded together to form the wheel. Most original equipment wheels are made this way, and so are many after market wheels—especially for trucks. Steel is durable, easy to repair and still popular for these reasons.

The other material, aluminum, is by far the most popular type of wheel we sell. Its light weight, superior heat dissipation and seemingly endless design variations make it the material of choice for most buyers. Aluminum wheels can be manufactured in many ways, and each method offers advantages.

• One-piece Cast Wheels
A cast wheel is made by pouring molten aluminum into a mold; the metal then takes the mold's shape as it cools and hardens. There are three types of casting methods, low pressure/gravity, counter pressure, and high counter pressure molding (HCM); each method has its place in today's market. A wheel manufacturer will select a particular method according to the weight, strength and finish that they have specified for that design. Naturally, the more sophisticated and costly methods produce lighter and stronger wheels but at a higher price.

• Forged/Billet Wheels
The two words “forged” and “billet” have become synonymous, but in fact the manufacturing process is called forging and the material used is an aluminum billet—a solid piece of dense aluminum. The forge, a huge machine that exerts thousands of pounds of pressure on the metal, basically presses or rolls the billet into its fundamental form. This forging is then machined to final finish. This process allows wheels to be built with much less material, allowing for lighter weight and unique designs, because the process creates a much stronger wheel than other methods.

• Multi-piece Wheels
The processes mentioned above can be combined to produce a wheel of a particular strength and weight at a particular price. For example, some wheels have a cast aluminum center, welded to a steel outer. Another type of two-piece construction features a billet center welded to a rolled outer (extruded aluminum rolled into a hoop). Still other wheels feature a split outer so that widths and offsets can be made to custom specifications. This last method is the three-piece type construction. In this type of wheel, the center which can be cast, billet or forged, is usually attached to the outer assembly by special screws or rivets.

hypeiv

iTrader: (2)

thanks for the info but what does it mean to me. I assume a lower weight would cost more but I am not too worried about adding weight.

More expensive ones last longer? are better balanced? better ride?

Chris@DTD

iTrader: (1)

I'll answer the second part first. The more expensive wheels won't necessarily last longer but will be lighter and stronger due to how they are manufactured. Generally the quality control goes up with the cost so they will have less runout thus they will balance and ride better.

Are there any wheels in particular that you're interested in? That will help better help me in giving you answers.

hypeiv

iTrader: (2)

havn't really picked a set out yet just started my search. I saw the ones you posted by sparco racing (Racing Sparco NS6) in another thread and they looked pretty good. I was also talking with a member about buying his SSR GT3's which retail for about 2x the NS6's. Then when I went to tirerack to check out the SSR GT3's I saw some ASA ST4's that had a similar style of the GT3's at about 1/3rd the price (but I wouldn't go with the ASA b/c that one only comes in a width of 8)...

I am still early in my decision process I just wanted to know what I am getting for the extra money.

Someone once told me the cheaper rims arn't always balanced correctly and may ride rough. If thats the case I don't mind getting more expensive wheels...

I am most like going to go with 18's.

BigMoeTaki42

Good info Chris, thanks for posting! I really can't think of anything you missed that I should add

GTNPU Z

iTrader: (17)

In the "Buying Rims For Dummies" version...

Pricing is factored by the following:
[1] Materials Used (Determines Weight & Durability)
[2] Build Type & Finish: Cast, 2 Piece, 3 Piece, Polished, Powder Coated, etc... (Also Determines Weight & Durability)
[3] Brand Name: HRE, iForged, J-lines, etc...
[4] Imported: Price goes up if it is shipped from overseas. (Shipping Cost)
[5] Availability: If it's rare, chances are they're more expensive. Also depends on WHO you're buying it from. (Supply & Demand)

Hope my simplified version helps

hypeiv

iTrader: (2)

One of the styles I am looking at is used by many different manufactures. Replica Racing, TSW, Racing Sparco and SSR. Price range from $220 to $500 each. Just tring to figure out what I am giving up by going cheaper and/or what I am gaining by going more expensive.

GTNPU Z

iTrader: (17)

Perhaps the best way to approach this is if you can post some examples (pics) of the styles you are looking for. We can all then look at them and provide some recommendations & feedbacks to the ones you're looking at. It's easier to provide pros & cons if we actually had specific wheels to review. Who knows, we might even find a better alternative to some of the items you are thinking about. Just a thought since there are many factors depending on the items I've listed earlier & what Chris has already pointed out.

eckocomplexg

iTrader: (11)

i purchased the 5zigen hyper 5zr in 19x9.5 r and 19x8 f for my Z.. got em on ebay for $2000 in perfect condtion.. with tires.... can't complain about the price since retail goes for about $800 a piece... i'd say check ebay sometimes you can get deals... only thing i can complain about is the tires that i got em with... but that's the least expensive part

Chris@DTD

iTrader: (1)

, I dig it.

hypeiv

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for all the input. The one style I am thinking about now is the one similar to the:

TSW Bremma
Racing Sparco D-Spec Stage 2
ASA ST4
SSR GT10

etc...

they all look about the same...

http://www.discounttiredirect.com/di...=Car%2FMinivan

GTNPU Z

iTrader: (17)

Nice! Now I see what style you're looking for. Funny thing is, they kinda look like mine .

Click to Enlarge:


BTW...Forgot to add this to the list I posted above but "size" COULD actually contribute to cost as well. Not to makes things more complicated but then again, you could find 19's out there that are actually cheaper due to any of the factors I've listed above. Are you still set on getting 18's?

Okay Chris,

Your the tire/wheel expert on this thread so I'd say start listing the pros & the cons for each rim he's posted. If one is a total "NOT TO GET", please state why. I have a strong feeling that the "Racing Sparcos" are going to be on the pricey side since it's going to be imported from Japan.

hypeiv

iTrader: (2)

I am starting to go towards 19's even though my rear tires may end up costing more than if i went with 18's. I don't think rear tires wear out as much and I would rather spend more money on something I want than just a little less money and get something almost like I want.