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I tried to do my home work thus I hope these work...
TSW Portier Matt Gunmetal Rim w/ Gloss Black Rim
18x10.5 + 27mm and Nitto NT05 295/35ZR18
18x8.5 + 15mm and Nitto NT05 245/40ZR 18 (Really, really wished I had gone with 18x9 & 255 on front in retrospect)
66.1 mm to 76 mm aluminum hub centric rings
These are sitting in my basement until spring, sorry for the lousy pics..
These will go on a Silver 2006 350Z Touring w/ stock ride height with possible rear fender roll if necessary.
Alright I've never bought wheels for a car, so this is new for me and got a question about tires. Running stock wheels with Nitto Invo's
Front:235/40/18
Rear: 265/35/18
Now when I get the new 295/35/18 for the rears, and put the 265/35/18 on the front am I going to run into issue's?
Hopefully this picture helps
265/35/18 9.5 +10
285/35/18 10.5 +12
i would go for 275/35 and 295/35 but then again I'm on stock height so not sure on the clearance aspect. Other then that this setup looks great and feels great
These are sitting pretty flush... TSW Portier 10.5 x 18 + 27mm rear on Nitto NT05 295 35R 18 & 18 & 8.5 x 18 + 15mm on Nitto NT05 245 40R 18 front. Please be aware, you will need TPMS sensor adapter brackets to fit OEM tire pressure sensors to these wheels...I learned the hard way...
"...sitting pretty flush...10.5 x 18 + 27mm rear on Nitto NT05 295 35R 18"
Hey...what happened with the "in the basement until spring" thing? Nice man.
You went 'short & fat' out-back and stayed with a conservative offset, no fitment issues I presume? At stock-height, rear gap acceptable visually? Can't tell in the pics.
Those NT05's are interesting, guessing they're 'sticky' when heated-up.
I should have known I couldn't wait till summer to mount these. True these are summer tires but when these were mounted it was in the 70s in mid January, does that count? In my neck of the woods there is nothing but curves in every direction from where I live, thus my decision in my tire choice. They are pretty sticky, but in return I am going to hate my life in about 8 to 9k miles when I have for spring for a new set. These set pretty well but I could probably drop the back at least a half to one inch in back, the front gap is fine.
Anyone care to help? tad lost with which sizes to run, been looking through but nothing specific.
Getting new wheels and tires, trying to go as big as possible without rubbing or rolling. Stock suspension.
Pretty set on RPF1's
Was thinking 10.5 in the rear and 9.5 in the front (18s, +15). Will this work with stock suspension and non rolled fenders? 245 in the front and 275 in the rear? Or would that rub without rolling.
Anyone care to help? tad lost with which sizes to run, been looking through but nothing specific.
Getting new wheels and tires, trying to go as big as possible without rubbing or rolling. Stock suspension.
Pretty set on RPF1's
Was thinking 10.5 in the rear and 9.5 in the front (18s, +15). Will this work with stock suspension and non rolled fenders? 245 in the front and 275 in the rear? Or would that rub without rolling.
You hit it on the head.... best fitment for RPF1 is as you mentioned, 9.5/10.5 +15. However, whether you need to roll fenders depends on your car. Sure, stock suspension should clear static but if your shocks are worn, you might get some occasional rear rubbing on bumps. You should probably count on rolling the lips somewhere down the road. I held off throughl 10+ sets of wheels/tires (offsets from 19 to 30) then HAD TO when I finally got around to 9.5 +15s
Also, should note that while a 245/40 tire works fine, 255/40 is even closer to stock FRONT diameter as shown:
255/40-18 is my choice, but if the tire is only available in 245/40-18 is no big deal.
^^^ Agree.
But yeah, even here in the crowded Bay Area, the number of people who do a GOOD job on fender rolling are few.
Try asking tire shops about "rollers" in your area since they see the need for rolling more than the average joe. Or, get the tool (~$50) and do it yourself (not difficult if you do it slowly, carefully and use a heat gun) but the most important thing is get tires/wheels that fit properly to begin with so you can avoid having to do it in the first place.
Prices around here tend to run anywhere from about $60 to $80/lip, give or take.
But yeah, even here in the crowded Bay Area, the number of people who do a GOOD job on fender rolling are few.
Try asking tire shops about "rollers" in your area since they see the need for rolling more than the average joe. Or, get the tool (~$50) and do it yourself (not difficult if you do it slowly, carefully and use a heat gun) but the most important thing is get tires/wheels that fit properly to begin with so you can avoid having to do it in the first place.
Prices around here tend to run anywhere from about $60 to $80/lip, give or take.
I can't find a solid source for this. I found some wheels a guy couldn't use that are 18x9.5 +12 and wasn't sure about pulling the trigger for my 04 base. I keep finding conflicting posts that they fit and they don't fit. Was curious just for a flat out answer if anyone is running this kind of setup. Currently not lowered but will be buying coilovers in the next few months.
Anybody running 265/35/18 & 285/35/18 with VDC and no issues? My first Z with VDC and not wanting to run into anything with that. 285/35/18 puts the rear difference at 3.1%. I know the rule of thumb is 3%
I can't find a solid source for this. I found some wheels a guy couldn't use that are 18x9.5 +12 and wasn't sure about pulling the trigger for my 04 base. I keep finding conflicting posts that they fit and they don't fit. Was curious just for a flat out answer if anyone is running this kind of setup. Currently not lowered but will be buying coilovers in the next few months.
will work just fine
Originally Posted by Bmurray350z
Anybody running 265/35/18 & 285/35/18 with VDC and no issues? My first Z with VDC and not wanting to run into anything with that. 285/35/18 puts the rear difference at 3.1%. I know the rule of thumb is 3%
There is no difference. The important part is the stagger difference between front and rear. The difference on the ones you selected are the same as stock.
There is no difference. The important part is the stagger difference between front and rear. The difference on the ones you selected are the same as stock.
Oh okay thanks for clarifying. So it's only a 3% diff from front to rear. Not the difference between the original diameter
Oh okay thanks for clarifying. So it's only a 3% diff from front to rear. Not the difference between the original diameter
Yep, the ECM is programmed to detect differences in wheel speed between front and rear wheels to make the determination on whether to trigger VDC. So, as long as the fore/aft tires are within that 3% spec, the wheels will spin in the same expected ratio front to back.
TCS also uses wheel speed as a determinant on when to trigger, but TCS isn't affected by the +/- "3% factor" since it's based on a wheel by wheel basis, not a fore/aft delta.