View Poll Results: What Should I Do For Springs...
Stick with the Swift springs already purchased.



9
69.23%
Get a lower drop(list your suggestion)



4
30.77%
Voters: 13. You may not vote on this poll
Swift Springs Gonna be enough?
So...I have the new rims...and test fit one today...but i'm starting to wonder if the Swift springs are going to be enough of a drop to make the wheels look right. As of now, that gap is disgustingly large...i'm starting to think I need at least a 1" drop to fix it...
What do you all think?


What do you all think?


I think that a springs-only setup with more than a 1" drop will cause WAY more problems to offset the small cosmetic value it will have. Screw up your camber, tires, and shocks.
what size rims are those? 17? you have uniform space around the wheels, there isn't more space above the tires than to the sides...they just look too small, don't lower it any more...just get larger diameter wheels to take up that space
Originally Posted by leykias
uhhh i'm pretty sure gts is 19 inches.....
yeah, lol, 17's...that's funny....If i put all this money into my car for body kit etc, and then bought 17's, i should be shot....lol
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Originally Posted by Greedy4nismo
what size rims are those? 17? you have uniform space around the wheels, there isn't more space above the tires than to the sides...they just look too small, don't lower it any more...just get larger diameter wheels to take up that space
LOL that's a great idea....not
Larger wheels= more rotating mass, further away from the point of inertia= slower acceleration= longer braking= more pad, rotor, fluid wear= don't do it.
Originally Posted by SweetDreamZ
yeah, lol, 17's...that's funny....If i put all this money into my car for body kit etc, and then bought 17's, i should be shot....lol
Originally Posted by Fluid1
Why?
Can't wait to hear your reasoning.
Last time I checked, reducing rim size wasn't what happened to modified cars...
oh, and by the way, the rims are pretty light...27lbs if i remember properly(rears)
Originally Posted by SweetDreamZ
are you implying that it would make sense to put SMALLER than factory rims on a car that is obviously being put together for looks right now?
Last time I checked, reducing rim size wasn't what happened to modified cars...
oh, and by the way, the rims are pretty light...27lbs if i remember properly(rears)
Last time I checked, reducing rim size wasn't what happened to modified cars...
oh, and by the way, the rims are pretty light...27lbs if i remember properly(rears)
27 pound rears is not too bad. What is bad is the fact that the tires are heavier than stock, and further away from the point of inertia.
This was not posted in the cosmetic section, either.
I take it that your TT kit is cosmetic?
Originally Posted by Fluid1
27 pound rears is not too bad. What is bad is the fact that the tires are heavier than stock, and further away from the point of inertia.
This was not posted in the cosmetic section, either.
I take it that your TT kit is cosmetic?
This was not posted in the cosmetic section, either.
I take it that your TT kit is cosmetic?
I don't have a TT kit...but when I do go turbo, it will be for a fast street car.
Most people that are THAT concerned with the inertia, adverse handling, etc will buy a seperate set of track rims/tires. These are my 'looks' rims. And you are right, it's not posted in the cosmetic section...it's posted in the section that would give the best yield on the original question...
Correct. The original question had nothing to do with rim size. 
Why list TT in your sig if you don't have it? (edit, I see it says 'soon')
Wouldn't it be counterproductive to have a turbo setup to add power, when your rims are draining that same power?
I totally feel what you are saying about street vs/ track rims.

Why list TT in your sig if you don't have it? (edit, I see it says 'soon')
Wouldn't it be counterproductive to have a turbo setup to add power, when your rims are draining that same power?
I totally feel what you are saying about street vs/ track rims.
Originally Posted by Fluid1
Correct. The original question had nothing to do with rim size. 
Why list TT in your sig if you don't have it? (edit, I see it says 'soon')
Wouldn't it be counterproductive to have a turbo setup to add power, when your rims are draining that same power?
I totally feel what you are saying about street vs/ track rims. 

Why list TT in your sig if you don't have it? (edit, I see it says 'soon')
Wouldn't it be counterproductive to have a turbo setup to add power, when your rims are draining that same power?
I totally feel what you are saying about street vs/ track rims. 
you are looking at quite a magnitude difference here...The rims aren't gonna suck 180whp from my car. I'm not sure on exact numbers, but i'm guessing it won't even hardly be noticeable that it's slower. If I were building an all out race car, you'd probably be right...but for my needs...turbo + body kit + rims FTW
It's all just dependant upon what you want to use your car for...
looks like yourr gonna need more than a 1 inch drop. but im wondering is any part of the car on a jack? is the car on all 4 wheels? if you have another size wheel on the car you arent seeing the true gap. I would put all four wheels (19"'s)on then call it from there. im pretty sure you wont end up with a gap that is that big.
Originally Posted by SweetDreamZ
you are looking at quite a magnitude difference here...The rims aren't gonna suck 180whp from my car. I'm not sure on exact numbers, but i'm guessing it won't even hardly be noticeable that it's slower. If I were building an all out race car, you'd probably be right...but for my needs...turbo + body kit + rims FTW
It's all just dependant upon what you want to use your car for...
It's all just dependant upon what you want to use your car for...
have a good one
holy lift kit!...but yeah your gap does seem strangly larger than other stock height vehicles. If your set on having the body kit than I would consider coilovers and to set it at where you would want your drop to be. I would hate to buy 3 sets of different springs just to find the right drop.
What size are the tires? If I remember right you said the swift springs have a 1/2" drop. My Hotchkis springs are listed as lowering the rear 3/4", I run the standard 19x10.5 et 22 LE37 w/ a 285/35/19 Tire and this is what it looks like

Hope you don't mind me using your pic to illustrate. But if you compare my rear wheel and the gaps around the wheel well when next to your's. Those were with my continental tires which were smaller than my current BFG KDW. I infact had to cut my fenders cause the new tires were rubbing going over bumps. With the new tires I can barely (the standard unit of measuring drop) fit one finger in the wheel gap.

From what I can see the overall wheel diameter seems kind of small as compared to your wheel well. Maybe it's just the camera. Hope this gives you a reference on how much 1/2" drop will look. Good luck man.

Hope you don't mind me using your pic to illustrate. But if you compare my rear wheel and the gaps around the wheel well when next to your's. Those were with my continental tires which were smaller than my current BFG KDW. I infact had to cut my fenders cause the new tires were rubbing going over bumps. With the new tires I can barely (the standard unit of measuring drop) fit one finger in the wheel gap.

From what I can see the overall wheel diameter seems kind of small as compared to your wheel well. Maybe it's just the camera. Hope this gives you a reference on how much 1/2" drop will look. Good luck man.
Last edited by MethodRN; Mar 23, 2007 at 07:37 PM.
thanks for the pics for reference...i'm running toyo t1r all around...255/35 up front and 285/30 in the rear. I did the 30 in the rear b/c according to the Toyo website, that combo gave the closest to the same overall diameter of the wheels front and rear.
I think that several things played into the gap looking large...
1. 3 OEM wheels were still on the car
2. The car was 'gingerly' lowered, and not given a chance to settle out at all
3. OEM springs
I'm gonna go ahead and try the swifts out...see how they work once i'm on all 4 new rims. If I decide they aren't what I want...I can always switch
Thanks for the input!
I think that several things played into the gap looking large...
1. 3 OEM wheels were still on the car
2. The car was 'gingerly' lowered, and not given a chance to settle out at all
3. OEM springs

I'm gonna go ahead and try the swifts out...see how they work once i'm on all 4 new rims. If I decide they aren't what I want...I can always switch
Thanks for the input!


