wheel spacers..quick question
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From: Gaithersburg, MD
been looking through the search
had talked to my friend about gettin wheel spacers...
don't know if he was wrong or not but he said when the screws or studs are seperated..u gotta do something with the stock studs and it becomes labor intensive
whereas u can just buy some with the studs already mounted...don't know if anyone can understand me but anyone know any brands thats just plug and play or all of them are like that
was thinkin about gettin the tc sportline..let me know..tryin to buy now thx
had talked to my friend about gettin wheel spacers...
don't know if he was wrong or not but he said when the screws or studs are seperated..u gotta do something with the stock studs and it becomes labor intensive
whereas u can just buy some with the studs already mounted...don't know if anyone can understand me but anyone know any brands thats just plug and play or all of them are like that
was thinkin about gettin the tc sportline..let me know..tryin to buy now thx
I m looking for wheel spacer w/ 18 stock wheels. I heard Eibach pro have ones w/ studs build in ....all you need is put over stock studs. is this correct?
should i get 15mm for front and 20 mm for rear or 20 f and 25 r or 25 r..please advise.
i talked to performance niss and they charge 200 bucks for install them...they said they need to knock off the stock one...need to open the rotor to replace w/ longer studs...or something....is this right?
should i get 15mm for front and 20 mm for rear or 20 f and 25 r or 25 r..please advise.
i talked to performance niss and they charge 200 bucks for install them...they said they need to knock off the stock one...need to open the rotor to replace w/ longer studs...or something....is this right?
project kics spacers have studs built onto the spacer. That's what i'm using.
if they don't, you'll need to knock the stock studs out and replace them with new ones (which is labour intensive).
if they don't, you'll need to knock the stock studs out and replace them with new ones (which is labour intensive).
Originally Posted by noodleman
project kics spacers have studs built onto the spacer. That's what i'm using.
if they don't, you'll need to knock the stock studs out and replace them with new ones (which is labour intensive).
if they don't, you'll need to knock the stock studs out and replace them with new ones (which is labour intensive).
that's true for ichiba spacers. but project kics makes 15mm spacers with studs built in (i have them).
I believe for H&R spacers you need to be 25mm before you gets studs built in...but i could be wrong.
I believe for H&R spacers you need to be 25mm before you gets studs built in...but i could be wrong.
Originally Posted by noodleman
that's true for ichiba spacers. but project kics makes 15mm spacers with studs built in (i have them).
I believe for H&R spacers you need to be 25mm before you gets studs built in...but i could be wrong.
I believe for H&R spacers you need to be 25mm before you gets studs built in...but i could be wrong.
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Originally Posted by SS728
So 25mm spacers, front and rear, with any spring drop, say gf's or s-techs, the flush will be good and tires will not rub?
Originally Posted by cheshirecat79
No, as that is a very broad statement. It also depends on the width and profile of the tire in the back that you are running. Generally the fronts will be fine with a drop.
If you go with stock rims, unless the spacer is +20mm to hide the nuts, you'll have to knock out the old bolts and insert new bolts.
However, the bolts shown will not suffice for a bolt replacement. They are not the right type. They need to have little ridges around them and no taper.
If you are attaching a 15mm spacer with its own bolts to stock bolts, then you need a rim that actually is built to allow for the bolts to co-exist. See in the picture how my rims have a space for a bolt?
I just did this job, and I went with 15mm spacers and replaced the bolts. I didn't like the unclean finish and I also feel that the spacer/bolt method puts too much stress on the bearings.
However, the bolts shown will not suffice for a bolt replacement. They are not the right type. They need to have little ridges around them and no taper.
If you are attaching a 15mm spacer with its own bolts to stock bolts, then you need a rim that actually is built to allow for the bolts to co-exist. See in the picture how my rims have a space for a bolt?
I just did this job, and I went with 15mm spacers and replaced the bolts. I didn't like the unclean finish and I also feel that the spacer/bolt method puts too much stress on the bearings.
Agreed on the DRM series- it says 40-90 mm but mine are 25 and they're perfect.
IMO, on stock wheels, 25 mm all around is enough to give it that perfect flush look. Plus you don't have to knock out any other bolts.
IMO, on stock wheels, 25 mm all around is enough to give it that perfect flush look. Plus you don't have to knock out any other bolts.
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i ahve a set of 25mm hubcentric spacers with the studs built in 40$ shipped
