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Would Running 295/30/19 in the rear be too much?

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Old 06-29-2008, 01:11 PM
  #41  
JETPILOT
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Originally Posted by DallasZ
Nitrosz you are the man!
Thank you so much for the accurate information I've been looking for.

Can you help me to understand the "downsides" of a -3 camber on the rear?
I am ready to sign up for the "tire wear" of the R888 plus the roll/cut.
Will I need to install some kind of camber kit to get to -3?
If so can you recommend one?
Since I already know they are going to wear quickly will the camber just add to the wear. Are there any downsides to running the -3 camber?

Does - camber effect the performance of the tires in a positive/negative way?

Also are you happy with the 295 R888 from a traction perspective?
I'm nowhere as "extreme" as your setup but I'm putting down 472rwhp and I want the most traction I can get.

I've invested in the built 8.5:1 motor/turbo/F-con/quaife plus install by an expert, the only missing ingredient at this point is the traction.

Thanks again.

PS Jet; no offense taken. You are correct I've been asking the same questions for a while now and I appreciate your input a great deal. The problem is that several people and pictures have contradicted your opinion; that's all. I have no problem with you at all. I am the type of person that does not accept the opinion of just one person; I need to gather everything I can from multiple sources. The reality here is that another member on the board is running R888's and has a different spin on things then you do; nothing more. Thank you again for your input.

Also in your post from today you make the following statement:
"A 10.5" tire takes a 295/305/315 tire. Not a 275."
In a recent post to me you contradict yourself; recommending a 275 rear.
Here is the link to the post: https://my350z.com/forum/wheels-and-tires/366346-looking-to-buy-r-compound-tires-need-help.html
Here is your direct quote directed to me: I would run a 245/40/18 front 275/340/18 rear in the R888. That will work for you.

Both statements can't be true. It's one or the other. Again no hard feelings, but examples like these are the reason I need to ask over and over again and get input from multiple people.
The downside to -3 camber is that your buying tire width that you can't use. It will limit how much traction you will have under acceleration and braking becasue now you also have to get a camber A arm kit for the front and run -3 camber up there as well to balance the car. Your tires won't wear evenly and will wear prematurely. You will also have to get SPC toe bolts and adjust your toe back to the normal range.

If you want me to go into detail about my recomendations PM me and and I will give you my phone number. We can talk. Your boarding the fail boat and you don't even know it.
Old 06-29-2008, 01:20 PM
  #42  
DallasZ
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So it sounds like -3 camber might make the tires fit, but there are big drawbacks.

Last edited by DallasZ; 06-29-2008 at 02:14 PM.
Old 06-29-2008, 01:25 PM
  #43  
aloh
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More negative camber will give you better traction while cornering, but it will hurt your straight line traction. It will also wear your tires pretty unevenly.

There are alot of camber options.

Here is one:

https://my350z.com/forum/suspension/368239-eibach-rear-camber-toe-kit-350z-g35.html

There are also plenty more options availible at the Marketplace.

Edit: Jetpilot beat me to it.
Old 06-29-2008, 01:46 PM
  #44  
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Last word's..... good luck!

Last edited by JETPILOT; 06-29-2008 at 02:25 PM.
Old 06-29-2008, 01:49 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by aloh
More negative camber will give you better traction while cornering, but it will hurt your straight line traction. It will also wear your tires pretty unevenly.

There are alot of camber options.

Here is one:

https://my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=368239

There are also plenty more options availible at the Marketplace.

Edit: Jetpilot beat me to it.
-3 camber will not give you better traction in turns on street tires. On R-compound rubber at race track cornering speeds after the tires are hot it absolutely will. On the street on street tires driving on public streets anything more than -1.5 is useless.
Old 06-29-2008, 03:31 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by DallasZ
Nitrosz you are the man!
Thank you so much for the accurate information I've been looking for.

Can you help me to understand the "downsides" of a -3 camber on the rear?
I am ready to sign up for the "tire wear" of the R888 plus the roll/cut.
Will I need to install some kind of camber kit to get to -3?
If so can you recommend one?
Since I already know they are going to wear quickly will the camber just add to the wear. Are there any downsides to running the -3 camber?

Does - camber effect the performance of the tires in a positive/negative way?

Also are you happy with the 295 R888 from a traction perspective?
I'm nowhere as "extreme" as your setup but I'm putting down 472rwhp and I want the most traction I can get.

I've invested in the built 8.5:1 motor/turbo/F-con/quaife plus install by an expert, the only missing ingredient at this point is the traction.

Thanks again.
sounds like you're trying to get straight line traction...then I wouldn't go -3 degrees. Like Jet and Aloh already explained, it would reduce your mileage on your tires dramatically.

Typically people run more camber in the front than the back...for turn-in purposes. -3 degrees camber or more is mostly reserved for those that run tight tracks... Street driving, personally i wouldn't run more than -2 degrees in the back...good thing about the R888 is that it's rated for -2.5 degrees to -5 degrees...but I have yet to test that out myself honestly. But even with -2 degrees in the back, I'm getting a lot more traction than with my old T1R street tires. I think you'll be ok with that. Just FYI...I'm running -2.3 degrees up front. I like how it feels right now...crisp turn in and holds the corners until exit.

As far as camber kits go, I can't really give you any advice as I don't have one, and never had one.

Good luck with your decisions.
Old 06-29-2008, 07:11 PM
  #47  
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Here you go bud. Im running Bridgstone Potenzas 255x35x19 up front and 305x30x19 out back.

The fenders are rolled. The back is at -3

If you have any questions just ask
Old 07-04-2008, 09:03 PM
  #48  
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Ok took a few updated pics of my Z. Here are more of my 305's, to give ya an idea of how the 35 offset looks.
Attached Thumbnails Would Running 295/30/19 in the rear be too much?-1.jpg   Would Running 295/30/19 in the rear be too much?-2.jpg   Would Running 295/30/19 in the rear be too much?-10.jpg   Would Running 295/30/19 in the rear be too much?-8.jpg   Would Running 295/30/19 in the rear be too much?-9.jpg  

Old 07-04-2008, 11:42 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Chad68
Ok took a few updated pics of my Z. Here are more of my 305's, to give ya an idea of how the 35 offset looks.
Thats very nice. I know I gotta go with 305s now even if I have to roll the fenders.
Old 07-04-2008, 11:56 PM
  #50  
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There was one other pic I liked but I threw it out because it was so blurry but I dug it back up and tried to clean it up a bit. Kinda shows a different angle. It's an old 3 meg camera and it's not mine either.
Attached Thumbnails Would Running 295/30/19 in the rear be too much?-3.jpg  
Old 07-05-2008, 11:35 PM
  #51  
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I dont know if this helps much but this is Kenny's 350Z (kenny@performance) on his rear. 305 30ZR 19 on a 19x11 +24, there is a slight roll done to it, no rubbing, camber is unmodified (pretty much whatever camber you get from a drop).

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Old 09-10-2021, 10:14 PM
  #52  
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Default Fitment question for vdc/slip

Originally Posted by zxsaint
I've got 265/30/19 F and 295/30/19 R on 9.5 and 10.5 +22 LE37T's...

No VDC issues and no problems up front with 265's, I think 275 would work too.
^ so to make this simple I have 265/35/18 front
295/30/18 rear and I have slip light flash on me and cut my power completely. Not sure if this would be an issue but I’d like to check all bases. I’m assuming it’s my crank position sensor.
Old 09-11-2021, 06:05 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by 0967nismo
^ so to make this simple I have 265/35/18 front
295/30/18 rear and I have slip light flash on me and cut my power completely. Not sure if this would be an issue but I’d like to check all bases. I’m assuming it’s my crank position sensor.
Your assuming wrong
Old 09-11-2021, 06:27 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by travlee
Your assuming wrong
Any ideas then crank sensor and or camshaft sensor is all I’m seeing as far as slip light issue?
Old 09-11-2021, 08:12 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by 0967nismo
Any ideas then crank sensor and or camshaft sensor is all I’m seeing as far as slip light issue?
Stock 18s and tire diameter (in inches)
225/45-18 25.97
245/45-18 26.68

Your sizes:
265/35-18 25.30
295/30-18 24.97

Pretty obvious why VDC (or TCS, whatever) is kicking in. Rear tires are supposed to be 3% +/- .25% TALLER than the front not 1.3% shorter. ECU says, "Whoa, you're spinning out!" and cuts power everytime you move the car.

Why do you think it's the crank position sensor? Did you pull a P0335 code?


Old 09-11-2021, 08:57 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by 0967nismo
Any ideas then crank sensor and or camshaft sensor is all I’m seeing as far as slip light issue?
Slip light has nothing to do with those sensors, those are engine related-not traction control.
Old 09-12-2021, 08:45 AM
  #57  
0967nismo
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Originally Posted by MicVelo
Stock 18s and tire diameter (in inches)
225/45-18 25.97
245/45-18 26.68

Your sizes:
265/35-18 25.30
295/30-18 24.97

Pretty obvious why VDC (or TCS, whatever) is kicking in. Rear tires are supposed to be 3% +/- .25% TALLER than the front not 1.3% shorter. ECU says, "Whoa, you're spinning out!" and cuts power everytime you move the car.

Why do you think it's the crank position sensor? Did you pull a P0335 code?
no codes at all, your for sure right I should have gone with a 295/35/18 in the rear so that id be at +3.2% instead of -1.2% with the 295/30/18
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