Originally Posted by ExtaZ33

Also, I would recommend getting a new nut for the upper control arm and new cotter pins. I had a hard time with one and ended up stripping it, costing a few days of down time waiting for a new one. The cotter pins are also really hard to straighten out and not destroy them in the process.

You'll also want to use a jack stand so you can use your jack to help raise and lower the spring perch...but that's just personal preference.

Originally Posted by ExtaZ33

The nut that is so tough to get to is the one holding the knuckle and upper control arm... #43084+A and cotter pin #08921-3202A.

Originally Posted by ExtaZ33

The wheel axle does not have to be spun in order to install the rear studs, only the front. On the rear, you have to take the cotter pin and nut off of the upper control arm, remove camber arm, traction arm, strut, and spring bucket loose from the knuckle. After that, you have to take the knuckle off of the axle using a 2 or 3-prong puller. Taking the knuckle off is the only way to get to the 4 bolts that hold the hub assembly into the knuckle...the driveshaft is in the way when it is all assembled on the car.

Sorry for the messy pics, it's all I have for now until I do another install this weekend.

Originally Posted by terrasmak

Talk about doing it the hard way. No need to remove all that to get the hub/bearing out. 1/2 inch drive with universal it can be unbolted witht he axle still inplace. Then i did mine all the real eary way, pulled them thru with only removing the ebrake pads.

Originally Posted by sry110

Thanks for posting this drawing. Further to my previous post, my understanding is that in order to replace the studs one by one, you need only to remove the brake rotor (43207), then you rotate the 43202 part so that there is empty space behind it, which allows you to tap out the stud.

So my original question pertained to whether or not I can rotate the 43202 piece with the opposing wheel still on the ground, assuming that the parking brake is not engaged.

Originally Posted by terrasmak

Talk about doing it the hard way. No need to remove all that to get the hub/bearing out. 1/2 inch drive with universal it can be unbolted witht he axle still inplace. Then i did mine all the real eary way, pulled them thru with only removing the ebrake pads.

Originally Posted by ExtaZ33

You can take the hub out without removing the e-brake pads. Are you saying you got to the 4 bolts on the back side of the knuckle with a universal adapter and socket wrench?

Originally Posted by terrasmak

Universal and extentions, but if i remember right you do have to pull the ebake shoes. Now to get the ARP's in while on the car (the way i did and pull them thru) remove the ebrake hardware, the 12mm bolt holding the cable (pull the cable out) and the 2 17mm nuts that holdsa the bottem bracket for the e brake pads. Once thats removed you can feed the studs into the hole , then into the hub.
I installed Nforce1's last week , and mine a while back that way.