Arp Extended Studs
Also, I would recommend getting a new nut for the upper control arm and new cotter pins. I had a hard time with one and ended up stripping it, costing a few days of down time waiting for a new one. The cotter pins are also really hard to straighten out and not destroy them in the process.
You'll also want to use a jack stand so you can use your jack to help raise and lower the spring perch...but that's just personal preference.
You'll also want to use a jack stand so you can use your jack to help raise and lower the spring perch...but that's just personal preference.
So my original question pertained to whether or not I can rotate the 43202 piece with the opposing wheel still on the ground, assuming that the parking brake is not engaged.
The wheel axle does not have to be spun in order to install the rear studs, only the front. On the rear, you have to take the cotter pin and nut off of the upper control arm, remove camber arm, traction arm, strut, and spring bucket loose from the knuckle. After that, you have to take the knuckle off of the axle using a 2 or 3-prong puller. Taking the knuckle off is the only way to get to the 4 bolts that hold the hub assembly into the knuckle...the driveshaft is in the way when it is all assembled on the car.
Sorry for the messy pics, it's all I have for now until I do another install this weekend.
Sorry for the messy pics, it's all I have for now until I do another install this weekend.
How did you get the long ARP's on with the knuckle behind it? I can see doing a stock stud like that but when I removed the e-brake it still wasn't near enough room.
Very curious since I'm doing this again this weekend.
Last edited by ExtaZ33; Jul 8, 2010 at 01:03 PM.
Thanks for posting this drawing. Further to my previous post, my understanding is that in order to replace the studs one by one, you need only to remove the brake rotor (43207), then you rotate the 43202 part so that there is empty space behind it, which allows you to tap out the stud.
So my original question pertained to whether or not I can rotate the 43202 piece with the opposing wheel still on the ground, assuming that the parking brake is not engaged.
So my original question pertained to whether or not I can rotate the 43202 piece with the opposing wheel still on the ground, assuming that the parking brake is not engaged.
Can you post the DIY you're referring to? With the entire knuckle attached there is plenty of room to knock out the old studs, but I didn't have enough room to fit the new ones in that space, even with the e-brake removed.
You can take the hub out without removing the e-brake pads. Are you saying you got to the 4 bolts on the back side of the knuckle with a universal adapter and socket wrench?
I installed Nforce1's last week , and mine a while back that way.
Universal and extentions, but if i remember right you do have to pull the ebake shoes. Now to get the ARP's in while on the car (the way i did and pull them thru) remove the ebrake hardware, the 12mm bolt holding the cable (pull the cable out) and the 2 17mm nuts that holdsa the bottem bracket for the e brake pads. Once thats removed you can feed the studs into the hole , then into the hub.
I installed Nforce1's last week , and mine a while back that way.
I installed Nforce1's last week , and mine a while back that way.
Worked like a "champ"!
Only problem I had was removing the 17mm Nuts.
They were really on there...and the Stud ended up spinning on me.
No problem...
Used a pair of Vice Grips and a then, a little weld...done!
Thanks for the info...
just thought i would add a pic of my arp studs that i purchased from splparts.com they switch the thread to a 12x1.5 instead of the fine thread nissan uses. this is a pic of the front wheel with a 5mm spacer, solomotive design ti lugs with burnt tip, spl studs:
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