Fender roll?
07-26-2012, 10:12 PM
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Fender roll?
So, i got some pretty aggressive offsets 18x9 +20(255/40) & 18x11+23(295/35). Anyways, I'm dropped on hotchkis springs which is a very minor drop(3/4" & 9/16" i think..) and i have no problem in hitting the fenders when driving. I plan to change the springs out to Eibach which drop about 1.2" F&R i believe. It would seem as if dropping a bit lower will make the tires rub on the fenders. Do you guys think i should roll my fenders? would i need front and rear rolled? thanks guys. 
07-26-2012, 10:31 PM
#2
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Front no, rear most likely , yes.
07-26-2012, 10:53 PM
#3
Read the Top 100 FAQ:
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-n...questions.html
Here specifically:
https://my350z.com/forum/2487452-post8.html
You're in Northern California it should be easy to find someone to roll your fenders so why not just get it done anyway just to be safe?
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-n...questions.html
Here specifically:
https://my350z.com/forum/2487452-post8.html
: What wheel sizes and offsets do I need?
A: Generally speaking, there are a LOT of different combinations that people are running on their Z or G.
Let's get the basics out of the way first: You need a lug pattern of 5x114.3, width between 8 and 11 inches, and diameter of 17", 18", 19", or 20".
Here are some of the more popular wheel and tire sizes (for good reason) that people put on their Z's. There is no "RIGHT" answer but there is a limit to how big or small you can go.
18" combination:
Front 18" x 8.5" , Offset +15 to +25, Tires 245/40/18
Rear 18" x 9.5" , Offset +15 to +25, Tires 275/40/18
(lower offset such as +10 in rear is possible but may require rolling)
Front 18" x 9.5" , Offset +25 to +30, Tires 255/40/18
Rear 18" x 10.5" , Offset +28 to +35, Tires 285/40/18 or 295/35/18
(lower offset such as +23 in the rear is possible but may require rolling)
19" combination:
Front 19" x 8.5" , Offset +15 to +25, Tires 245/35/19
Rear 19" x 9.5" , Offset +15 to +25, Tires 275/35/19
(lower offset such as +10 in rear is possible but may require rolling)
Front 19" x 9.5" , Offset +25 to +30, Tires 255/35/19 or 265/35/19
Rear 19" x 10.5" , Offset +23 to +32, Tires 285/35/19 or 295/35/19
(lower offset such as +23 or wider tires in the rear is possible but may require rolling)
A: Generally speaking, there are a LOT of different combinations that people are running on their Z or G.
Let's get the basics out of the way first: You need a lug pattern of 5x114.3, width between 8 and 11 inches, and diameter of 17", 18", 19", or 20".
Here are some of the more popular wheel and tire sizes (for good reason) that people put on their Z's. There is no "RIGHT" answer but there is a limit to how big or small you can go.
18" combination:
Front 18" x 8.5" , Offset +15 to +25, Tires 245/40/18
Rear 18" x 9.5" , Offset +15 to +25, Tires 275/40/18
(lower offset such as +10 in rear is possible but may require rolling)
Front 18" x 9.5" , Offset +25 to +30, Tires 255/40/18
Rear 18" x 10.5" , Offset +28 to +35, Tires 285/40/18 or 295/35/18
(lower offset such as +23 in the rear is possible but may require rolling)
19" combination:
Front 19" x 8.5" , Offset +15 to +25, Tires 245/35/19
Rear 19" x 9.5" , Offset +15 to +25, Tires 275/35/19
(lower offset such as +10 in rear is possible but may require rolling)
Front 19" x 9.5" , Offset +25 to +30, Tires 255/35/19 or 265/35/19
Rear 19" x 10.5" , Offset +23 to +32, Tires 285/35/19 or 295/35/19
(lower offset such as +23 or wider tires in the rear is possible but may require rolling)
07-27-2012, 05:51 AM
#6
First off, I find it very hard to believe that at +23 offset and 295 width tire you are not rubbing. I ran a 285 width tire on +22 offset and it rubbed. (Consequently, I was also lowered on Hotchkis springs at the time).
Now assuming you are indeed not rubbing now, then you should continue to not rub if you do not add adjustable camber arms. Think about it....the wheel travels along a radius as the suspension compresses, i.e. as the car moves up and down. By simply adding shorter springs, you are not changing the suspension geometry, and therefore you are not changing the path along which the wheel travels up into the wheel well. With the short springs you're just changing your "neutral" position to be farther up the path of travel than you currently have with the Hotchkis springs.
However, I would not recommend going any lower than the Hotchkis springs unless you get adjustable camber+toe provisions. Even lowered on the Hotchkis my camber and toe were far enough out to cause major inner tire wear (camber wear and scrubbing).
Now assuming you are indeed not rubbing now, then you should continue to not rub if you do not add adjustable camber arms. Think about it....the wheel travels along a radius as the suspension compresses, i.e. as the car moves up and down. By simply adding shorter springs, you are not changing the suspension geometry, and therefore you are not changing the path along which the wheel travels up into the wheel well. With the short springs you're just changing your "neutral" position to be farther up the path of travel than you currently have with the Hotchkis springs.
However, I would not recommend going any lower than the Hotchkis springs unless you get adjustable camber+toe provisions. Even lowered on the Hotchkis my camber and toe were far enough out to cause major inner tire wear (camber wear and scrubbing).
07-27-2012, 07:54 AM
#7
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MY350Z.COM
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First off, I find it very hard to believe that at +23 offset and 295 width tire you are not rubbing. I ran a 285 width tire on +22 offset and it rubbed. (Consequently, I was also lowered on Hotchkis springs at the time).
Now assuming you are indeed not rubbing now, then you should continue to not rub if you do not add adjustable camber arms. Think about it....the wheel travels along a radius as the suspension compresses, i.e. as the car moves up and down. By simply adding shorter springs, you are not changing the suspension geometry, and therefore you are not changing the path along which the wheel travels up into the wheel well. With the short springs you're just changing your "neutral" position to be farther up the path of travel than you currently have with the Hotchkis springs.
However, I would not recommend going any lower than the Hotchkis springs unless you get adjustable camber+toe provisions. Even lowered on the Hotchkis my camber and toe were far enough out to cause major inner tire wear (camber wear and scrubbing).
Now assuming you are indeed not rubbing now, then you should continue to not rub if you do not add adjustable camber arms. Think about it....the wheel travels along a radius as the suspension compresses, i.e. as the car moves up and down. By simply adding shorter springs, you are not changing the suspension geometry, and therefore you are not changing the path along which the wheel travels up into the wheel well. With the short springs you're just changing your "neutral" position to be farther up the path of travel than you currently have with the Hotchkis springs.
However, I would not recommend going any lower than the Hotchkis springs unless you get adjustable camber+toe provisions. Even lowered on the Hotchkis my camber and toe were far enough out to cause major inner tire wear (camber wear and scrubbing).
Shortly after with a roll i spaced it out to +10 everything else the same. No rubbing.
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