Notices
Wheels & Tires 350Z Rollers and Rubbers

Coating on Polished Lip coming off

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-28-2013, 04:28 PM
  #1  
RawrXTC
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
RawrXTC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: US
Posts: 199
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default Coating on Polished Lip coming off

Hey guys, I've searched a few times and couldn't find an exact answer to my question. I got some Volk GT F's and the coating on the lips are starting to wear away. I can see where it's bare metal and where the coat starts again. Was wondering if there's an easy way to strip the coating completely?

I got quoted around $400 for stripping and repolishing the set and the guy said he would have to "grind" the polish off and I'm like wtf? I don't have the money to get them repolished at the moment and was wondering if I just put Wheel Wax on them if that would protect the non-coated areas?
Old 08-28-2013, 05:23 PM
  #2  
9K RACING
Banned
 
9K RACING's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Covina, CA 91722
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

post photos
Old 08-29-2013, 09:48 AM
  #3  
JMS71585
Registered User
iTrader: (7)
 
JMS71585's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Staten Island, NY
Posts: 1,873
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

There is an Anodized coating on the aluminum lip of your Volks. The coating can be completely removed with a good bit of patience, time and some wet sanding. This a good thread that basically shows the process done to Volk GT-7 wheels a while back.

https://my350z.com/forum/repairing-a...h-on-lips.html
Old 08-29-2013, 01:00 PM
  #4  
JeepTherapy
New Member
iTrader: (1)
 
JeepTherapy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I used the oven cleaner and ultra fine steel wool to strip my GT-7 lips. I polished to a mirror shine with a die grinder and buffing compounds. Lastly I went over it with mothers aluminum polish. I broke a bolt putting mine back together though. Wheel looks great I just don't feel good driving it until I can get some replacement bolts. I would also like to find the Volk Racing decals.
Old 08-29-2013, 01:06 PM
  #5  
mr. sparco
New Member
iTrader: (13)
 
mr. sparco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Sunny Beaches
Posts: 7,086
Received 454 Likes on 318 Posts
Default

Unbolt the faces, no need to remove tires it's a seamless 2 piece wheel, aircraft paint remover will take it off in 2 minutes. Rinse and get some microfiber towels then use some Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish. Rub the pink stuff on and wipe it off with a bit of elbow grease. It will leave a mirror like finish, better than the original.
Old 08-29-2013, 03:53 PM
  #6  
freddys 350z
Registered User
 
freddys 350z's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: schertz, tx
Posts: 774
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

aircraft paint remover takes off anodizing? cool, i didnt know that.
Old 08-29-2013, 08:03 PM
  #7  
SR71
Lead Super Moderator
MY350Z.COM
iTrader: (1)
 
SR71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: MN
Posts: 5,807
Received 305 Likes on 166 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mr. sparco
Unbolt the faces, no need to remove tires it's a seamless 2 piece wheel, aircraft paint remover will take it off in 2 minutes. Rinse and get some microfiber towels then use some Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish. Rub the pink stuff on and wipe it off with a bit of elbow grease. It will leave a mirror like finish, better than the original.
Its still best to remove the tires when removing the center of a wheel. We had to fix a customers GT-C's once because they didn't remove the tires when they were painting their centers, then when he went to put the centers back in they didn't line up perfectly. The tire will still put a lot of force on a wheel with out center support and "egg it" making it out of round like a bent wheel, not all pressure will be equal on a tire when mounted. Also when you remove the centers it's best to mark the centers and barrels LF/RF/LR/RR and put them back exactly as they were, 2 piece wheels once put together at the factory are then "tweaked" to ensure they roll the best and mixing the fronts or rears can change how they roll once put back together.
Old 08-29-2013, 09:28 PM
  #8  
mr. sparco
New Member
iTrader: (13)
 
mr. sparco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Sunny Beaches
Posts: 7,086
Received 454 Likes on 318 Posts
Default

You are correct. I used to own GTCs and did it this way w/o issues. OP seems to be on a budget which is why I suggested this route.
Old 08-31-2013, 05:58 PM
  #9  
RawrXTC
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
RawrXTC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: US
Posts: 199
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Thanks a lot guys. Sorry I forgot to mention they do not have tires on them so even better. Is aircraft paint remover safe for the wheels? Where can I find that usually? Also where can I get the volk racing sticker that's on the lip since I gotta strip the coating so the sticker on there now has to come off. Anyone know the torque spec for the bolts?
Old 08-31-2013, 07:25 PM
  #10  
mr. sparco
New Member
iTrader: (13)
 
mr. sparco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Sunny Beaches
Posts: 7,086
Received 454 Likes on 318 Posts
Default

Torque specs should be within 25-35 lb/ft. Work Wheels suggests 22 but I find that to be too light for re-bolting wheels.

Aircraft paint remover (NOT JASCOT- stuff is useless) can be found at Home Depot, Autozone, Pepboys. Blue can with an airplane on it.

Volk decal can be sourced from Mackin Industries if you want authentic or have a vinyl shop cut it for you.
Old 09-02-2013, 08:36 AM
  #11  
JeepTherapy
New Member
iTrader: (1)
 
JeepTherapy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I was torquing to 25 lb/ft when I snapped the bolt on my GT-7...

Mine had quite a bit of oxidation that made it a lot more work. The coating was pretty easy to get off. Here is a before and after;



Old 09-02-2013, 09:54 AM
  #12  
RawrXTC
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
RawrXTC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: US
Posts: 199
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

That's looks a lot better after you stripped it Jeep. Did you use aircraft paint remover to remove the coating? Since you snapped a bolt at 25 lbs do you suggest 22 lbs then?
Old 09-02-2013, 04:00 PM
  #13  
JeepTherapy
New Member
iTrader: (1)
 
JeepTherapy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I used oven cleaner to strip mine. It worked fine. Paint stripper sounds like it may be easier. I am going to try that on the next one. I am really unsure about torque. I have searched a lot for torque values and have found a few places with conflicting information. I have seen the 25 - 35 posted in other places also but it proved to be too much for me. The original bolts are unobtainable. I'm not even sure the GT F uses the same size bolts. Mine are M7-1 bolts and torque charts show torque on that to be 17-19 lb/ft.

Chris

Last edited by JeepTherapy; 09-02-2013 at 04:01 PM. Reason: added name
Old 09-03-2013, 04:29 PM
  #14  
RawrXTC
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
RawrXTC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: US
Posts: 199
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Alright, thanks a lot Chris. I'll just put them at 22 lbs and hope that's enough.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Obadabot
Maintenance & Repair
16
06-18-2023 11:31 PM
MM'08_350Z
VQ35HR
225
04-22-2021 09:42 PM



Quick Reply: Coating on Polished Lip coming off



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 01:38 AM.