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Wheels & Tires 350Z Rollers and Rubbers

Handling with 10.5 rear?

Old Oct 6, 2016 | 08:34 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by MicVelo
While I haven't been on a track for any real high speed stuff other than a few ride-alongs at MLSIR and in Vegas in years, the way I always looked at it was, "The track is the great equalizer. Spending time on same is where the driver's flaws show up and tell me what I need to work on....

....Oh, then I'll get around to worrying about the stuff on the car.
"
Yea I bought my Z for a track, auto x and weekend cruiser specifically. It's because it's literally cheaper to insure 2 cars than one alone lol

So I wanna get out there. I also wanna have a good time and not be causing traffic and sliding out every 5ft due to lack or supporting mods to keep it planted and suitable for the track.

But still have fun with it and learn better driving skills at the same time with our starting with a full fledged $50k cup car haha

Not sure if anyone is familiar with one take but Mr.Farrah said he's really interested in driving my roadster once I get some FI and suspension set up on it. So when I get that sorted I can probably let Matt take a run in my Z for one of his episodes. I mostly want his feed back on the set up and performance lackings from someone with experience such as him.
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Old Oct 6, 2016 | 01:52 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Phenom
I'm still somewhat confused. Let's say my car currently understeers, and for the sake of argument let's assume that:

at 0.7 lateral G's = front breaks loose
at 0.9 lateral G's = rear breaks loose

If I wanted my car to be neutral, I'd want the front and rear to break loose at the same lateral G force. Increasing front tire size could then make my car look like this:

at 0.9 lateral G's = front breaks loose
at 0.9 lateral G's = rear breaks loose

But now if I were to adjust the sway bar in the rear to reduce understeer instead of increasing front tire size, we know the front will break loose roughly at the same G force as when I started. So assuming we stiffen the rear enough to attain neutral handling, my car will look something like:

at 0.7 lateral G's = front breaks loose
at 0.7 lateral G's = rear breaks loose

So if that's all logically sound, it seems (to me at least) that stiffening one end (ie making it less grippy) only makes that end crappier in order to match up with the crappy front. They'll be roughly even and neutral, but what good is neutral if they're both crappy? On the other hand, rather than bring the grippy side down to match the crappy side, you can bring the crappy side up to match the grippy side. That way it'll be neutral and grippy all around.

That's the theory aspect of it that I'm hung up on. Am I making sense?
Your use of cornering forces, e.g. "0.7g", to describe when a car breaks loose is flawed in this scenario due to the fact that you are NOT making the car "LESS GRIPPY" by increasing roll stiffness at one end or the other. The car still has the same amount of grip given no other changes, e.g. tires, roll bars, etc.

What you are modifying through tire sizing and/or chassis roll stiffness is the timing of when one end's TIRES reach their maximum slip angles; that is, the maximum angle of tire deflection prior to loss of traction, NOT when the tire begins to "slip" or actually lose traction resulting in the car sliding, as many people think when this terminology is used.

These changes/tweaks apply to STEERING CHARACTERISTICS ONLY (over, under, neutral steering), not lateral grip necessarily, even though they ARE related.

Lateral grip has even more factors influenced into the equation.... tire size, tire compound, tire weight, temperature, vehicle weight transfer, circumference, angle, and radius of the turn used to measure the lateral grip, just to name a few.
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Old Oct 6, 2016 | 07:42 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Phenom
I'm still somewhat confused. Let's say my car currently understeers, and for the sake of argument let's assume that:

at 0.7 lateral G's = front breaks loose
at 0.9 lateral G's = rear breaks loose

If I wanted my car to be neutral, I'd want the front and rear to break loose at the same lateral G force. Increasing front tire size could then make my car look like this:

at 0.9 lateral G's = front breaks loose
at 0.9 lateral G's = rear breaks loose

But now if I were to adjust the sway bar in the rear to reduce understeer instead of increasing front tire size, we know the front will break loose roughly at the same G force as when I started. So assuming we stiffen the rear enough to attain neutral handling, my car will look something like:

at 0.7 lateral G's = front breaks loose
at 0.7 lateral G's = rear breaks loose

So if that's all logically sound, it seems (to me at least) that stiffening one end (ie making it less grippy) only makes that end crappier in order to match up with the crappy front. They'll be roughly even and neutral, but what good is neutral if they're both crappy? On the other hand, rather than bring the grippy side down to match the crappy side, you can bring the crappy side up to match the grippy side. That way it'll be neutral and grippy all around.

That's the theory aspect of it that I'm hung up on. Am I making sense?
As McVelo pointed, there is a lot more to everything than that. Your therory is semi correct, buts it's not really as simple as you think. Of course everything you do, has a reaction, some good, some bad. Extra drag, brake wear, suspension adjustments, different spring rates , all factors on properly setting it up.

I will say, for track use 275/35-18 all around is considered the standard for the Z
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Old Oct 7, 2016 | 06:50 AM
  #24  
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there any loss in running 19's?

Also I was watching a time attack and some dudes were running 17 fronts and 18 rears but the same profile tire. So basically the front had more meat while the rear had more rim.

Does that have a significant improvement? I figure that would introduce more underwater due to tire flex being greater up front.
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Old Oct 7, 2016 | 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by CK_32
there any loss in running 19's?

Also I was watching a time attack and some dudes were running 17 fronts and 18 rears but the same profile tire. So basically the front had more meat while the rear had more rim.

Does that have a significant improvement? I figure that would introduce more underwater due to tire flex being greater up front.
Loss of....???? Grip, response?

Generally speaking, grip/adhesion will remain relatively unchanged (if any, a little gain in overall traction) given the tire's width being unchanged. A 275 is a 275mm width no matter the wheel diameter.

What may change (positively) is you'll get a slight gain in the amount of steering response (turn-in and return to center) due to the shorter, stiffer sidewalls of the 19" tire when maintaining the same overall tire diameter (again, depends on tire choice).

But in reality, with the state of tire technology today, a good 18" tire will respond just as well as a good 19" tire and the difference will be negligible in real world application.
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Old Oct 7, 2016 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by CK_32
there any loss in running 19's?

Also I was watching a time attack and some dudes were running 17 fronts and 18 rears but the same profile tire. So basically the front had more meat while the rear had more rim.

Does that have a significant improvement? I figure that would introduce more underwater due to tire flex being greater up front.

They run the same profile so it maintains a staggering but its the 1 inch of the wheel. The tire profile is the same, and the same amount of meat on each corner...

Im assuming it's 275/40/17 front and 275/40/18 rears...

From what ive heard its a nice set-up... I thought about getting that but never did...

Terrasmak has run that before though, and he is the 350z track master...
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