What tires to get with 10.5 RPF1s?
#1
New Member
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What tires to get with 10.5 RPF1s?
I've done hours and hours of googling, searching, reading, and asking but I'm always getting mixed answers. I bought some display model RPF1s for a good deal, their size is 18 10.5+15 and looked at tire setups but it's allover the place. Some people say 265 35 all around, some say 255/285 stagger but isn't clear what they're trying to achieve. So all I'm really trying to hit is a good street drivable car that can go to the track a few days in a year.
#2
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
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I've done hours and hours of googling, searching, reading, and asking but I'm always getting mixed answers. I bought some display model RPF1s for a good deal, their size is 18 10.5+15 and looked at tire setups but it's allover the place. Some people say 265 35 all around, some say 255/285 stagger but isn't clear what they're trying to achieve. So all I'm really trying to hit is a good street drivable car that can go to the track a few days in a year.
Question being addressed here: https://my350z.com/forum/wheels-and-...l#post10909185
But to address your question on the stagger... The car is set up OE with stagger to maintain a consistent handling attitude; that is, biased towards understeer. Smaller contact patches up front/larger in back with the stock suspension is intended to do this.
Once you start messing with the factory settings - be it tires, suspension, etc. - you are playing with the car's overall attitude. In the case of moving to a square setup - without any other changes for sake of discussion - you are rearward biasing the "looseness" (by improving front grip) and can therefore bring on snap throttle oversteer which is not as controlled (very sudden and harder to recover from) as "engineered oversteer" (can't remember what it's actually called but that describes the condition) which is easily controllable by pedal work and steering input. Snap throttle oversteer is NOT what the factory wants else they'd have done so to start.
But the odd thing with the Z and LARGE square contact patches, the car doesn't really oversteer, it tends to just get flat and less responsive. So, in a way, you're moving the car towards neutral but not in a good way because that usual sharp steering response of the Z starts to fade away due to the increased slip angle of the front tires and a not-so-good change in the scrub radius.
But that's MY take on it after experimenting with some 15+ different tire/wheel setups and for ME, stagger is the only way I'll go. Squared wheels is fine but the tires need to be staggered to suit ME. (Note the personal "me" here. Others may feel differently.)
Last edited by MicVelo; 08-16-2017 at 10:51 AM.
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bealljk (08-17-2017)
#3
General & Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
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I have that setup on back. Michelin Pilot Super Sport 295/35. Nice meaty tire that has a lil protection against curbing in case the wife drives it.
#4
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#5
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MY350Z.COM
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265/35/18, 295/35/18.
The Bridgestone 760 is a very capable tire too, at a better price!
I have a friend who runs 255/35/19. 275/35/19, on 9,5/10.5. It's prolly a better look.
The Bridgestone 760 is a very capable tire too, at a better price!
I have a friend who runs 255/35/19. 275/35/19, on 9,5/10.5. It's prolly a better look.
#6
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#8
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No problem at all. we all start somewhere!
The FR fenders are pre-rolled at factory. The RRs are not. So if you're gonna run this setup, get your RR wheel openings rolled for $65 ish.
gl, and let us know how it goes!
The FR fenders are pre-rolled at factory. The RRs are not. So if you're gonna run this setup, get your RR wheel openings rolled for $65 ish.
gl, and let us know how it goes!
#9
New Member
Thread Starter
Please don't double post.
Question being addressed here: https://my350z.com/forum/wheels-and-...l#post10909185
But to address your question on the stagger... The car is set up OE with stagger to maintain a consistent handling attitude; that is, biased towards understeer. Smaller contact patches up front/larger in back with the stock suspension is intended to do this.
Once you start messing with the factory settings - be it tires, suspension, etc. - you are playing with the car's overall attitude. In the case of moving to a square setup - without any other changes for sake of discussion - you are rearward biasing the "looseness" (by improving front grip) and can therefore bring on snap throttle oversteer which is not as controlled (very sudden and harder to recover from) as "engineered oversteer" (can't remember what it's actually called but that describes the condition) which is easily controllable by pedal work and steering input. Snap throttle oversteer is NOT what the factory wants else they'd have done so to start.
But the odd thing with the Z and LARGE square contact patches, the car doesn't really oversteer, it tends to just get flat and less responsive. So, in a way, you're moving the car towards neutral but not in a good way because that usual sharp steering response of the Z starts to fade away due to the increased slip angle of the front tires and a not-so-good change in the scrub radius.
But that's MY take on it after experimenting with some 15+ different tire/wheel setups and for ME, stagger is the only way I'll go. Squared wheels is fine but the tires need to be staggered to suit ME. (Note the personal "me" here. Others may feel differently.)
Question being addressed here: https://my350z.com/forum/wheels-and-...l#post10909185
But to address your question on the stagger... The car is set up OE with stagger to maintain a consistent handling attitude; that is, biased towards understeer. Smaller contact patches up front/larger in back with the stock suspension is intended to do this.
Once you start messing with the factory settings - be it tires, suspension, etc. - you are playing with the car's overall attitude. In the case of moving to a square setup - without any other changes for sake of discussion - you are rearward biasing the "looseness" (by improving front grip) and can therefore bring on snap throttle oversteer which is not as controlled (very sudden and harder to recover from) as "engineered oversteer" (can't remember what it's actually called but that describes the condition) which is easily controllable by pedal work and steering input. Snap throttle oversteer is NOT what the factory wants else they'd have done so to start.
But the odd thing with the Z and LARGE square contact patches, the car doesn't really oversteer, it tends to just get flat and less responsive. So, in a way, you're moving the car towards neutral but not in a good way because that usual sharp steering response of the Z starts to fade away due to the increased slip angle of the front tires and a not-so-good change in the scrub radius.
But that's MY take on it after experimenting with some 15+ different tire/wheel setups and for ME, stagger is the only way I'll go. Squared wheels is fine but the tires need to be staggered to suit ME. (Note the personal "me" here. Others may feel differently.)
#10
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Thank Mic - great opinion and interesting prospective ...
OP, I just put (square) 18x10.5 235/35 RPF1s on my car and with a 2" drop in I'm not anywhere near hitting my rear fenders - I'll post a few pictures.
Front tire is up in the air - would love to hear opinions on this.
I couldn't believe how light these are (around 44lbs w/tires) as compared to my dead-weight 20" TSWs...
OP, I just put (square) 18x10.5 235/35 RPF1s on my car and with a 2" drop in I'm not anywhere near hitting my rear fenders - I'll post a few pictures.
Front tire is up in the air - would love to hear opinions on this.
I couldn't believe how light these are (around 44lbs w/tires) as compared to my dead-weight 20" TSWs...
#11
New Member
Thread Starter
Thank Mic - great opinion and interesting prospective ...
OP, I just put (square) 18x10.5 235/35 RPF1s on my car and with a 2" drop in I'm not anywhere near hitting my rear fenders - I'll post a few pictures.
Front tire is up in the air - would love to hear opinions on this.
I couldn't believe how light these are (around 44lbs w/tires) as compared to my dead-weight 20" TSWs...
OP, I just put (square) 18x10.5 235/35 RPF1s on my car and with a 2" drop in I'm not anywhere near hitting my rear fenders - I'll post a few pictures.
Front tire is up in the air - would love to hear opinions on this.
I couldn't believe how light these are (around 44lbs w/tires) as compared to my dead-weight 20" TSWs...
#12
350Z-holic
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ahhh hell...265, not 235!
Last edited by bealljk; 08-23-2017 at 08:25 PM.
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iideadeyeii (08-18-2017)
#14
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Thank Mic - great opinion and interesting prospective ...
OP, I just put (square) 18x10.5 235/35 RPF1s on my car and with a 2" drop in I'm not anywhere near hitting my rear fenders - I'll post a few pictures.
Front tire is up in the air - would love to hear opinions on this.
I couldn't believe how light these are (around 44lbs w/tires) as compared to my dead-weight 20" TSWs...
OP, I just put (square) 18x10.5 235/35 RPF1s on my car and with a 2" drop in I'm not anywhere near hitting my rear fenders - I'll post a few pictures.
Front tire is up in the air - would love to hear opinions on this.
I couldn't believe how light these are (around 44lbs w/tires) as compared to my dead-weight 20" TSWs...
You're welcome, bealljk. There are times I hope that people will at least take my advice into CONSIDERATION and not just the grumblings of an old man. They're not always right for the reader but at least hope to provide one side of the equation so decisions can be made with "full disclosure". Laff...
But seriously, on your tire opinion question, I already stated what I think about squared set-ups. However, something should be added... square works for particular applications. For example, square is used to extract maximum GRIP (at the expense of some turn-in response; and that's totally reasonable e.g. very tight, technical tracks requiring very late braking and maximum corner speeds to properly execute the exit, etc.
Something to consider, however, is that in those types of applications, suspension adjustability/alignment all come into play in conjunction with the tire setup. In my first example, I cite "no other modifications for the sake of discussion". In the real world, all of those things factor in and a racer may run a large contact patch front and rear then adjust to track conditions through adjustment of roll stiffness (shocks/springs/height/sway bars) so as to bring "control" back to the car.
In street applications, I still advise stagger just to help keep the driver (AND OTHERS AROUND) safer.
In your case, since your wheels are square, I'd move the 255s to the front and run at least a 275 rear. That's pretty neutral in everyday use. Then, once set on rubber, tune your suspension around that.... shocks, adjustable bars, etc.
For my cars, I baseline "tune" the shocks to the wheel load (by non-scientific method...butt dyno, not a shock dyno!); that is, lighter, smaller wheels like my previous RPF1s require a little more jounce/rebound control as heavier ones, like my former Nismo V3s simply due to physics. (All of my current wheel sets are about the same size/weights - by design - so I don't do shock/bar adjustments much any more. Set and forget...
Stiff isn't always better. On a car. But balance is and that can be achieved through mechanical manipulation (hardware adjustment) whereas tires are pretty much set once on the car.
#15
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
There's a handful of members on the board that when they talk/type I take note - you, dk, cux, terra, to name a few...all smarter than me...I'm not a huge fan of the 10.5" but I got a pretty sweet deal on them and couldn't pass up. Additionally, I dropped 64lbs of weight (as compared to my 20" tsws). But I'll look into the staggered as you suggested / I'm not married to the square setup by any means
I'm experimenting with my shocks ... I squatted pretty bad when I put these rpfs on and put everything 100% stiff and going to dial them back (trial & error method) ... maybe I should wait for new tires before I do too much dialing-in.
I'm experimenting with my shocks ... I squatted pretty bad when I put these rpfs on and put everything 100% stiff and going to dial them back (trial & error method) ... maybe I should wait for new tires before I do too much dialing-in.
Last edited by bealljk; 08-18-2017 at 07:27 AM.