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Tire Kingdom ruined my front rims during new tires install.
My rims are no longer available and i need a whole new set now.
TK is only offering me 500 for the 2 front rims even though I need to
get the whole new set. So now I am looking for cheap rims under 1000.00 bucks
My Concept One RS8's are 20's 8.5 front and 10 rear
The front has an offset of 30 and rear I can't read here are some pics.
The rubber is 245/35/20 and 275/30/20
Either way what I'm concerned about is what range of offset can I use for front
and rear and be close to flush for 20" rims 8.5 front and 10. front offset is on spoke 30mm 10++++is on both rims not sure what that means rear offset not visible on spoke will remove other side to see if visible on other rear wheel
You might have to zoom on pic to see it but front says 20x8.5 ET 10++++ then 30 on spoke same for rear 20x10 ET10++++ but spoke # is not visible.
So basically safe range offset for 20x8.5 on the front and safe range for 20x10 on the rear.
Looking at rims with lip like the XXR 526.
Please help Im clueless at the offset numbers and to have it near flush to fender.
OH and suspension is stock and Im not planing on lowering it.
Tire Kingdom ruined my front rims during new tires install.
My rims are no longer available and i need a whole new set now.
TK is only offering me 500 for the 2 front rims even though I need to
get the whole new set. So now I am looking for cheap rims under 1000.00 bucks
My Concept One RS8's are 20's 8.5 front and 10 rear
The front has an offset of 30 and rear I can't read here are some pics.
The rubber is 245/35/20 and 275/30/20
Either way what I'm concerned about is what range of offset can I use for front
and rear and be close to flush for 20" rims 8.5 front and 10. front offset is on spoke 30mm 10++++is on both rims not sure what that means rear offset not visible on spoke will remove other side to see if visible on other rear wheel
You might have to zoom on pic to see it but front says 20x8.5 ET 10++++ then 30 on spoke same for rear 20x10 ET10++++ but spoke # is not visible.
So basically safe range offset for 20x8.5 on the front and safe range for 20x10 on the rear.
Looking at rims with lip like the XXR 526.
Please help Im clueless at the offset numbers and to have it near flush to fender.
OH and suspension is stock and Im not planing on lowering it.
"Flush" fit for an 8.5" wheel can go down to as low as ~10mm offset
"Flush" fit for a 10" rear wheel down to ~15mm offset
Have no clue what 10++++ means. Can only presume it's some kind of mfgr code.
You have to stick with 20s based on your keeping the presumably new tires? Else, I'd suggest going down at least an inch to 19s.
In any case, would suggest going wider in front, say, to a 9" or 9.5" wheel in which case lowest offsets for "flush" fit is 15mm for a 9", 15-20mm for a 9.5
So the 30 I had in the front was not as flush as it could have been.
Was it closer to stock positioning?
Ive figured by drawing pics that if rim is wider backspace and
frontface get larger even if offset stays the same
So from stock do we know how many mm it takes to get wheels to the
flush point and then I can do the math with pics.
Also if I go 9in wide rather than 8.5 can they put on
the 245/30/20 on it with no issues.
15-25 for 9 wide
I understand y 19in rim recommendation better ride more sidewall better ride
and control but why wider rim for same reason also. and will my 245/30/20 fit on 9 in wide rim.
Would 10-20 be a safe range for 8in wide and 15-25 for 9 in wide
and 15-25 for 10 in wide
If rim gets wider and offset stays the same the rear and front faces get larger and the only way to make backspace get larger than that is to make offset lower towards 0 or -ive digits is that correct?
and to be sure front and rear spacing is always measured from the
spot the offset line is found not the centerline.
Also for handling is +ive offset from centerline better or is a
-ive better and if so is there a percentage from centerline
that is ideal for that and if so what is it.
Also a 9 inch rim is measured from the inside so
should I add an inch when measuring back and
front space for the outer flange. Is outer flange
usually about an inch or do the outer flanges
vary greatly between manufactures.
So the 30 I had in the front was not as flush as it could have been.
Was it closer to stock positioning?
Stock offset is +30
Ive figured by drawing pics that if rim is wider backspace and
frontface get larger even if offset stays the same
So from stock do we know how many mm it takes to get wheels to the
flush point and then I can do the math with pics.
Also if I go 9in wide rather than 8.5 can they put on
the 245/30/20 on it with no issues.
15-25 for 9 wide
Yes.
I understand y 19in rim recommendation better ride more sidewall better ride
and control but why wider rim for same reason also. and will my 245/30/20 fit on 9 in wide rim.
Because if yer gonna go big do it right and fit the most suitable wheel to the car. In this case 9 or 9.5 fronts. Heck, you could go 10-10.5 with no problem.
Would 10-20 be a safe range for 8in wide and 15-25 for 9 in wide
and 15-25 for 10 in wide
WHY would you go to an 8" wheel?? Besides, you asked for FLUSH FITMENT earlier. I gave you the offset guidelines to keep them near flush. Go with those offsets for the given widths. You'll see this using the tire calculator.
If rim gets wider and offset stays the same the rear and front faces get larger and the only way to make backspace get larger than that is to make offset lower towards 0 or -ive digits is that correct?
and to be sure front and rear spacing is always measured from the
spot the offset line is found not the centerline.
Also for handling is +ive offset from centerline better or is a
-ive better and if so is there a percentage from centerline
that is ideal for that and if so what is it.
Originally Posted by vagel72
Also a 9 inch rim is measured from the inside so
should I add an inch when measuring back and
front space for the outer flange. Is outer flange
usually about an inch or do the outer flanges
vary greatly between manufactures.
OK, this is TL;DR, sorry. You're way over thinking this.
Go with the recommendations I made. (Or wait for someone to tell you the exact same thing in different words? )
Ive figured by drawing pics that if rim is wider backspace and
frontface get larger even if offset stays the same
So from stock do we know how many mm it takes to get wheels to the
flush point and then I can do the math with pics. I'm not really sure what you're getting at.
****I drew pic to understand the measurements thats
Then take out a steel ruler or two and measure. Then use this to do your calculations: https://my350z.com/forum/tire_rim_calculator.php
Also if I go 9in wide rather than 8.5 can they put on
the 245/30/20 on it with no issues.
15-25 for 9 wide Yes. Thank you for the yes
I understand y 19in rim recommendation better ride more sidewall better ride
and control but why wider rim for same reason also. and will my 245/30/20 fit on 9 in wide rim. Because if yer gonna go big do it right and fit the most suitable wheel to the car. In this case 9 or 9.5 fronts. Heck, you could go 10-10.5 with no problem.
Would 10-20 be a safe range for 8in wide and 15-25 for 9 in wide
and 15-25 for 10 in wide WHY would you go to an 8" wheel?? Besides, you asked for FLUSH FITMENT earlier. I gave you the offset guidelines to keep them near flush. Go with those offsets for the given widths. You'll see this using the tire calculator. Sorry that was a mistake on my part meant 8.5 as what I had just screwed up on number
If rim gets wider and offset stays the same the rear and front faces get larger and the only way to make backspace get larger than that is to make offset lower towards 0 or -ive digits is that correct?
and to be sure front and rear spacing is always measured from the
spot the offset line is found not the centerline.
Also for handling is +ive offset from centerline better or is a
-ive better and if so is there a percentage from centerline
that is ideal for that and if so what is it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by vagel72
Also a 9 inch rim is measured from the inside so
should I add an inch when measuring back and
front space for the outer flange. Is outer flange
usually about an inch or do the outer flanges
vary greatly between manufactures.
OK, this is TL;DR, sorry. You're way over thinking this.
Go with the recommendations I made. (Or wait for someone to tell you the exact same thing in different words? )
Micvelo Thank you for all your help between your recommendations and what I have learned by reading those posts and using the calculators Im hoping I will get the right sizes.
Micvelo Thank you for all your help between your recommendations and what I have learned by reading those posts and using the calculators Im hoping I will get the right sizes.
Yer welcome. Trust me, if you stick with the guidelines I gave you - keeping offsets closer to (or a just a few mm's above, e.g., where I said 10mm as the lowest you can go, go with the more common, +15mm) and you'll be safe. Almost any size (width) in the +20-25 will work fine except on the "narrow" 8.5".
Boy, I can remember a day when 15x8 wheels were considered wide (Corvette Rally wheels) and 15x10 "reverse" Cragars were considered immense. And now 8.5 is "narrow". Hahahahaha.
Yeah I remember when I used to trip on 16s and OMG 17's boy have things changed.
I think I saw Impala or some mid sized car like that skating on what looked like 30's
The thing looked like a giant roller skate lol.
Sux Tire Kingdom messed up my rims cause I liked them and that set was like 1400 bucks now I have to find something cheap cause they're only giving me 500 bucks. That is the hard part...finding a set of rims in the
correct size for cheap, Im looking and 800 to 900 maximum.
I'm a kidney dialysis patient on disability for the past 6 yrs only living on SSI and now I have just been
diagnosed with colorectal cancer. So a lot of work I used to do on my own car has become such a task anymore.
I've lost so much weight mostly muscle mass that I am actually weaker than when I was 8 years old. And damn it I still have lots of other work that needs to be done.
I used to have a buddy mechanic that did side work for me here in the Tampa Bay area but he has disappeared
I don't know if he moved or what so that sucks for me even more now. Wish he could have told me of
someone else to work on my car. Its hard to find someone who is trustworthy.
But yes Im gonna go by your numbers +5 from the lowest offsets you gave me.
When I went to the 9 in wide rim for the front though the pricing on www.fitmentindustries.com jumped
quite a bit so I may have to stay at 8.5 in for the front. It seems like the cheapest website I could find.
Unless you know of any websites that have better prices on wheels Im all ears.
Hi vagel72. I am sorry reading your medical challenges. You are certainly climbing a very steep hill, and I offer my most sincere wish that you have the very best outcomes. It is so difficult enduring severe health problems.
Mic provides good advice here. If you go with an 8.5” wide wheel on the front, keep the offset at 10mm or 15mm. I mounted an 8.5” wheels with 25mm offset and it is “too tucked.” 15mm offset for a rear 10” wheel looks great.
Hey Spike100 thanks. Yeah i currently have 20x8.5+30 on the front and it looks like this front 20x8.5 ET+300 rear 20x10 ET I dunno
If you know of any websites that sell cheap rims please let me know since Im on the market right now for a set.
Yup... Pretty much looks like my front setup: 8.5' wheels with a 25mm offset.
Optimum appearance requires a 10 mm (and at most 15 mm) offset when mounting 8.5" wheels on the front. Even a 5 mm offset would work on the front. A 25 mm or 30 mm offset is too little for the front because it is "too tucked inside the fender".
Last edited by Spike100; Sep 19, 2019 at 05:58 PM.
I too am sorry to hear of your health issues. Speaking as a cancer survivor, it's never an easy time but, there is a light at the end of the tunnel with many new treatments available. I was treated primarily with an immunotherapy drug, enabling my own defense systems to do the majority of the fighting; but I also had a "light chaser" of chemo with each treatment. I am in remission. So hang tough and never let anyone say no to you when you press for "alternatives" to traditional treatments.
In the meantime, about wheel dealers.... Your budget dictates that you'll be in the market for replicas and allegedly "lower quality" wheels. But after testing out a few "budget wheels", I find that most are fine for general use duty; around town, on the road, commuting. Just don't expect them to hold up under anything more than that. I see far too many people selling used wheels out there saying things like "one is cracked but still holds air" and "one has a bend but it's easily fixed." Don't believe that shid. Yes, they can be welded, straightened or otherwise repaired.... maybe. Not worth it to spend money on repairs in most cases. Moral of the story: cheap wheels are cheap wheels for a reason.
That said, there are a couple of tiers of replica wheels: Decent replicas and "Steer Clear of those" replicas. How can you tell them apart? Price. The latter wheels to avoid usually fall into the "under-$600/set" price range. The decent ones go for roughly $800-1200.
Here are a few dealers I've found that carry a good amount of the decent wheels:
I've bought varied things from all of these dealers - one set of wheels from 18racing.com (Rotas that I have on my roadster and they're fine) and one set of Vordovens (used for a "test" I wrote about on this forum) and they were actually not a bad wheel.
Oh, where did I find these guys? Mostly on EBay. I use EBay a lot despite the seeming bad rep. It's all about doing the research and getting the name parts available at other sources. Like genuine Nissan (or whatever) parts. A huge number of dealers sell through EBay and they're the same parts you'd buy going to the dealership parts department. So snoop around EBay.
The new biologics provide great optimism for successful oncology treatments. For example, melanomas were previously a death sentence, and now are being treated successfully.
About the wheels... I prefer a properly configured wheel, but if you make a bad offset decision, spacers can be a solution.
Thank you all for all the good wishes...I did 5 weeks of chemo with an infusion pump and radiation.
Now rather than surgery and then radiation they want me to do more chemo and hopefully shrink
the tumor more and then cut it out. I fared the chemo and radiation better than I thought I would so
that was a plus. I am also doing some homeopathic stuff like teas,herbs, spices and better natural
eating overall. Supposedly it helps shrink tumors and kill them along with the cancer stem cells
which are the root of cancer metastasizing to other organs.
Thank you for the websites with good deals on wheels. It's a daily driver so I don't need anything special
like replicas or anything like that. Just a nice looking set of rims at a good deal since I gotta come up with
the difference after 500 bucks. Plus Im gonna sell the rims I have now. Ill post the pics of the damage
Tire Kingdom did to them. Can't believe tech did this.