Having a problem getting the rear rotors off. They will not spin without having to put a breaker bar in between the lugs and forcing it sounds like brakes but my E brake is off. I got into the e brake adjuster on the rotor and there’s just a empty hole seems like it popped out any ideas?

 

Are they seized on?

If so, spray them with PB Blaster every few hours / once a day - it may take a little time.

 

You would need to rotate the rotor to line it up with the e-brake star wheel adjuster, which I think is on the center bottom. It's hard to see through that small hole even when you have it indexed properly. Also, it's normal for there to be some drag when rotating the rear wheels, as there's a lot of drag from the final drive (rear diff). If you hear some slight drag from the E-brake shoes, that's also fairly normal, so long as the shoes are just barely kissing the drum area.

Most likely your rotors have seized onto the hub due to rust/corrosion. Bealljk is on point, spray some penetrant around the studs and axle hub perimeter, rotate the assembly to help get a good soak (so it doesn't all drip off). Then take a block of wood and a 4lb sledge and tap around the rotor hat between the studs and on the sides to break the rust bond. This usually does the trick for me, although I've had some really stubborn rotors in the past that tested my patience. Let's just say I resorted to beating on the rotor face directly with some anger behind the blows. This method freed up the rotors fast, but also marred up the pad riding surface. I didn't care since I was replacing the rotors. If you're also replacing the rotors, have at it!
Cheers!
-Icer

 

I've used the "bolt method" in the past - where you basically take a nut and a long bolt, and put them through the caliper mounting holes to put constant tension on the rotor, and hitting the other side with a rubber mallet usually pops them off pretty quickly. Sometimes you may have to loosen and rotate the rotor.

 

Are you replacing the rotors ? Is so, break out the BFH