Im putting on H&R wheel spacers and need to use different wheel studs (longer). How do i do this? Is it easy to do myself or should I have it done?

 

I am 99.9% sure you have to have it done. They need to be pressed in with a machine.

 

well... you can remove the hub and take it to a shop to have them remove the current studs and replace them with longer studs....

Or, take the whole car to a shop and let them do... they will either remove the hub and do it and charge you a lot of money for the hassle of removing the hub, or they will do the following (and probably still charge you a lot of money):

Once you have the wheel, calipers and rotors off the car, you will notice the studs are in a free spinning hub. Behind the hub you will notice a notch in the spindle... if you rotate the hub you will notice that notch lines up with the head of the studs.

Spray a lot of Liquid Wrench or something like that on the wheel studs.. let it soak in. Take a hammer (I used a 5lb sledgehammer) and tap on the studs to push them out of their seat. Once loose, and when lined up with the notch in the spindle, the stud will come right out.

Put them in the same way... line up the stud seat with the notch and push the new stud into place... make sure you have the grooves on the stud lined up in the grooves in the seat. You may want to clean out the rust on the hub and in the stud seats to assure a good fit.

To press them in, I placed a stack of thick washers over the stud and put on a lug nut. I made the lug nut finger tight, then I used my impact to tighten the lug nut further. This will pull the stud futher into its seat. Once you torque the wheels, the stud will seat even further.

I did this about 9000 miles ago, and have not had one problem. In that time, I have put close to 3000 road-course track miles on the car and the wheels studs are fine.

Hope that helps.

PeteH

 

thanks but how do u take the hub /caliper off?

 

I've never removed the hub... probably it's a hassle as you would have to press in a new hub bearing...

As for the caliper... on the Brembo there's two 19mm bolts at the back of the caliper that attach it to the spindle. Remove those and the caliper will slide right off. The rotor should fall right off as well.

I'm guessing the non-Brembo brakes have something similar at the back of them attaching them to the spindle. Once you take out the bolts holding the caliper to the spindle, the caliper will come right off.

Do be careful that you don't let the caliper dangle from the brakes line. The weight of the caliper will damage the line. The best thing is to place a box or something under the car that you can set the caliper on once you have removed it from the car.

PeteH

 

You have to take the brakes off, which is not that hard. Just a few bolts. Make sure to have coat hangers ready to hang the calipers up on the suspension. The rubber brake lines are easily damaged. So hang the brake assembly on something which keeps the stress off of the lines.

Next, take the rotors off and you will see the hub with the studs in it. Taking the rotors off can be a pain if they are rusty. Just tap them all the way around with a rubber mallet and they should come loose. Once you can get a the studs you are ready to remove them. Make sure you have the emergency brake off and the front wheels chocked.

Now, take a piece of wood and put it on the stud and tap the stud out with a hammer. Do not hit too hard. It should just tap out after repeatedly hitting it. If you hit too hard you can ruin the hub bearing seal. Make sure that the stud is lined up with a void area behind the hub. Be careful not to hit the emergency brake with the stud because it can be a b*tch to get back into place. Once you have the first one out you must rotate the hub so the next stud is aligned with the void behind the hub. Then tap that one out. Repeat on both sides until all the studs are removed.

Then install the new studs by using a spare lug nut and some washers to seat the new stud. Just put about 3-5 washers on and thread down the lug nut. Then rotate the hub to the void and insert the new stud. repeat. I used a torque wrench, but it is not necessary. Just look behind the stud and see if it is seated all the way down. You should not even be able to put a piece of paper in between the stud and the hub.

You will have to put the new stud in from behind so, this only works with the shorter of the NISMO extended lugs. The 60mm are too long to be insert from the rear. So if you have the 60's take it to a shop. Otherwise the 50's work in the above manner. You must make sure to seat the stud very firmly. But be careful not to strip the threads. I used several lug nuts instead of just one repeatedly so they would have good holding power. Use this info at your own risk. My advice is that the rims will probably fly off immediately and your car will blow up into a 1000's pieces killing you and everyone you love. Other than that good luck.

 

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!

 

I'd follow zillinois for the rear. For the front, the hub is really easy to remove, 4 bolts. Take it off and hammer out the studs without fear of breaking something. I used one of the new studs underneath it to stabilize and whacked. A couple hits and they come out. To put back in, flip it and use something to secure the hub, ie another stud, and bang the new one in lining up the stud grooves with the hub grooves. Really easy. Make sure you get the 14.3mm knurled diameter ones.
Hope that made sense. For the rear you can't get those 4 bolts out easy so use his method.

 

Just curious, did you replace wheel studs because your iForged wheel was not clearing the StopTech brakes(i.e. spacer needed)?Or some other reason?

Thanks,
Mickey

 

i got wheel spacers