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TERMS OF SALE:
- Price: $15,000. Some offers will be considered but nothing ridiculous please.
- Cash or Cashier's Check only, no alternative or monthly payments will be considered.
- Not interested in Trades
I am selling the car I never thought I would sell but my wife and I had our first child and this car is just not practical for our needs anymore. I am a mechanical engineer in my 30s and I know how to take care of a car properly so rest assured this is not just another beat up 350Z by some kid.
I apologize for the extremely long description but I believe in full disclosure so you know what you are looking at and buying.
This is a 2003 Nissan 350Z, originally a Track edition/trim, CLEAN TITLE, supercharged with a Vortech V3 supercharger kit (2.87 pulley) and all supporting mods, 94k miles on the car, 15k miles on the SC.
The car is smog legal. All upgrades are street legal. The supercharger kit has a CARB number stamped on it as well. I commuted to work for over a year with this car, a 50 miles roundtrip daily commute with no problems, I have made sure it remains a comfortable ride for long distance trips.
The previous owner made a lot of the cosmetic/exterior modifications since he used it as a show car and won several trophies with it. Once I bought it I focused on the performance of the car and made it basically a street-friendly track car that can race and beat about 99% of the cars on the road. I have done most of the performance upgrades myself except the tuning. The tuning was done on the dyno by Rob at the ZCarGarage in San Jose, CA. The car was inspected thoroughly before tuning once all performance modifications were done and was found to be in perfect health. Rob is a very detailed mechanic and he would not tune anything that is not done to perfection. He will vouch for the car's condition and the work that was done to it.
The car was very conservatively tuned to about 380rwhp for reliability. Other 350Zs with the same modifications get pushed to about 400-440rwhp on the same dyno. That is also on only 91 gas. If you decide to install a methanol injection kit on the car it can easily add another 20rwhp. Stock VQ35DE motors usually can't handle more than 440-450hp safely, or 440+ tq due to the connecting rods. That's why I wanted to leave it tuned conservatively for longevity and reliability rather than maxing out the motor.
Below is a detailed list of all mods and the prices that were paid for every single item, some new and some used. I have a whole folder with receipts, the majority being from the previous owner but I've added a few myself.
Brakes:
AP Racing 6 Piston 14.25" rotors Front Big Brake Kit - $2950
AP Racing 4 Piston Rear Big Brake Kit - $2280
Suspension:
Tein Monoflex Coilovers with EDFC -- stiffness adjustable from inside the car - $2120
SPL Rear Sway Bar Links - $200
Hotchkis Front and Rear Sway Bars - $380
Wheels:
Volk GT7 19x9.5 FR ($810 ea new), 19x10.5 R ($830 ea new) bought used for $2600
Tires: Front 275/35/19 Hankook Ventus V12 -- 70% thread remaining - $236ea new
Rear 305/30/19 Hankook RS3 -- 75% thread remaining - $315ea new
Exterior:
Chargespeed Rear Bumper
ChargeSpeed sideskirts
AMS Front Bumper (stock bumper also available)
Clear signal indicators
Orange reflector in headlights removed
Interior:
Sound System: Kenwood DVD/CD Double Din Headunit w/ Bluetooth/USB - $360
Alpine SWR Type R 10" subwoofers (2) in custom carpeted box - $450
Diamond Audio D5 1200.1 Amplifier - $250
Upgraded front and rear speakers - $240
AEM Wideband Failsafe Gauge -- boost and wideband into one gauge - $280
Momo authentic steering wheel with NRG quick release hub (stock steering wheel and airbag
available as well)
Built-in Lenovo tablet (7") with Bluetooth connection to an OBD2 plugin module to read off engine
computer data real-time. It's very much like the Nissan Skyline GTR interface where you can scroll through windows with graphs and dials.
This is the majority of parts/upgrades on the car at the moment. As you can see there isn't much left on it that hasn't been upgraded. I also have a lot of the stock parts, such as the stock front bumper, exhaust manifolds, cats, steering wheel, etc.
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These are the only "issues" that I can think of that despite being nothing major I still want to disclose absolutely everything:
- There is no radio reception for some reason; I think the antenna might not be powered.
- There is an annoying rattle in the rear hatch area that I haven't had the chance to investigate. I have however checked all suspension components and everything is nice and tight. It sounds more like a loose plastic part rattling somewhere in the back.
- The front rotors cause some vibrations under hard braking. It feels like the rotors have some brake pad material deposited on them causing this. Easiest solution is to replace the rotor rings, which is about a $400 expense. I have factored that into my price. An alternative solution is to find someone who will turn drilled rotors and just have them turned to remove that pad material. Either way, it is the buyers choice. I have decided to just sell it as is and have already reduced my asking price of the car by $1000 just for this. I think that's more than fair.
PM me if interested. I'd prefer a local sale but these days it's not uncommon for people to buy cars from out of state so I am willing to work with anyone to make it work.
GLWS deff a clean car. I hope that you are not using the term "practical" because you guys dont want to buy another car to use for the baby. ;D
We did buy another car, a Mercedes C63 AMG. Needless to say, the Z is sitting parked in the garage now not being driven more than once a week to keep the battery and everything else in good shape. It's been like that for the past 5 months and I finally decided it's time to sell it if I am not going to drive it, it's a shame having a car like that just sit.
How is the Tein Monoflex Coilovers with EDFC is the EDFC worth the money? Is it noticeable?
Let's put it this way, you can set the car from a level where you feel every little tiny rock you go over to basically stock stiffness. When put on the stiffest setting the car is as solid as it gets. There is no lean in, it feels like it's literally on rails. The ride gets pretty harsh though for driving like that all the time and you do need some absorption from the suspension for optimal handling. I tend to keep it set a bit stiffer on the rear but still relatively at the mid point. Having that adjust-ability from inside the car is worth the cost of the EDFC, definitely.
How is the Tein Monoflex Coilovers with EDFC is the EDFC worth the money? Is it noticeable?
Just to give you an unbiased opinion on the EDFC setup. I bought a g35 with that setup on it. I only had the car for about a month, but the amount of adjustability you get from a simple little controller really is incredible. It is a perfect setup for somebody that wants to be comfortable at times but when it comes to taking hard turns, a simple press of a button and its ready to go.
We did buy another car, a Mercedes C63 AMG. Needless to say, the Z is sitting parked in the garage now not being driven more than once a week to keep the battery and everything else in good shape. It's been like that for the past 5 months and I finally decided it's time to sell it if I am not going to drive it, it's a shame having a car like that just sit.
Trust me, I am very very tempted to keep it as a track car but my schedule is so hectic that when the weekend comes it passes so quick that I barely have time to wash my car, let alone dedicate a full day to go to the track. The nearest track to me is within 2 hours, which means a 4 hour round trip all by itself. My life is just too busy right now. I just feel bad having the Z sit in front of the house, collecting dust, when someone else can enjoy it and I can also invest the money in something else.
2003 Nissan 350Z Track Edition, 6speed Vortech Supercharged
