cannonja

iTrader: (1)

Hello. I recently bought 2 sets of JBL MS-62c speakers. I bought a set for the fronts and a set for the rears.

I also ordered the plastic version of the adapters on ebay. Got the adapters and they were just too small to fit these speakers. The speakers are called 6.5 and that is supposed to be what is in the 350z stock(front and rear). Well, I scrapped those and then ordered a set of the MDF adapters from a different online site. Looks like with the new MDF adapters the fronts will work out. I just have to figure out the wiring situation - don't really want to pull that door harness and risk running the wires through it.

Anyway, my problem is now with the rear speakers. First off the ebay seller who I bought the plastic adpaters from says they work for the fronts and rear. However the fronts use the 3 bolt pattern and the rears use a 4 bolt square pattern. The previous owner had installed some infiniti kappa speakers front and rear and the rears seem like they are actually 5 and 1/4 or so.

JBL also sells MS-52c speakers which I believe are 5 and 1/4 and I think they would fit perfect in the stock rear housings.

I know that most people say don't change the rears and I am past that point. I just want to know if anyone can clarify what the correct speaker size is for the rears and if anyone has used 6.5s in the rear, what did they do to make them fit? I am thinking of trying to find a thin MDF or similar material to make a speaker adapter as it is just barely to big to fit in the stock location. The actual speaker cutout on the car is too small, so the only way I can see around it is to make the speaker stick out some. Problem is, I don't know how much I can push it out and still clear the plastic speaker cover panel.

Thanks for any help in advance.

beezee

iTrader: (19)

I understand you being past the rear speakers delete question but do you really want component speakers front and back?
The woofer should fit the stock location
Where are you putting the tweeters for the back. I have same speakers in the front
And regular coaxial in the back but I have the rear faded off

cannonja

iTrader: (1)

Thank you for your reply. I wanted to give them a shot front and back. I have the JBL GTO504EZ amp that I was going to try running them with.

For now I went to home depot and bought a sheet of 1/4 inch MDF and used the ring that came with the speakers(the part the grille snaps into) as a template to make a small adapter. This has allowed me to mount the speaker but not sure if the long plastic piece that covers the speaker is going to fit right or not.

I did notice someone mentioned that they took out the stock grille to allow the tweeters to come through on some coaxial speakers. Not sure how that would work on these as the stock grille is bigger that the grille that comes with the jbl.

When I got the car there were components in the rear and they mounted the tweeters near the stock speakers. When I installed mine I just worked with the location they used previously as I didn't want any holes from before to show. The tweeters came with a few mounting options. I chose the 9 degree angle I think it was. I will inclue a picture of how it looks.

Also, you said you were using these in the front. How did you wire them to the amp? Did you run new wire, use stock or what? The previous owner had installed the fronts in the stock speaker housings and then solder the speakers to the stock location and then used the stock clip. Then the only speaker channel used on the radio was the fronts. I am assuming that by using the factory radio harness he could then somehow tie into the amp using the stock wire. Kind of confusing.

beezee

iTrader: (19)

Well you may not be willing to do what I did. I run all new speaker wires. First I had my front speakers in Stock location. Then moved them into door pods.
Now I have them in kick panel pods the best place so far
Speaker wires from head unit to amp then from there to the cross overs. Then from there to woofer and tweeter

cannonja

iTrader: (1)

I heard about the door pods but hadn't seen the kick panel pods. I too was afraid I would be kicking them all the time. Where did you order them from? I would like to take a look at them. Any pictures installed?

You said you ran all new wires. Did you use the wires that came with the speakers? It didn't seem that great but the kicker 12 gauge I have seems too big and like a pain to run through the door. I can see if you ran to the kick panel that would help with wiring the speakers as it is inside the car(except the tweeter I guess).

Were did you mount the crossover? I found a thread on here where they mounted the crossover on the door above the speaker. I will try that location. I really wanted to run all new wire as well. I bought enough 12 gauge kicker xw1220 to do all the speakers, including the subs, but not sure I am going to do it for the components. I think I am just going to use the wire they sent with them. I mean that is what is going to go to the tweeters regardless.

I am still a little confused as to why you ran wires to the headunit and then to the amp, UNLESS you were using the stock wire for the fronts. Otherwise I would think you would just run the RCAs to the amp and the wire from the amp to the crossovers and then from the crossover to the tweeters/woofers.

Where did you mount your amp? The previous owner mounted one under each seat of my vehicle. I am probably going to try that route. Last time it was a pain to adjust the amps, but was doable. The new JBL amp I have has the adjustments on top, so that should be nice. The other amp I have is a hifonics 1200watt class d. I have 2 sundown audio sa10s that I will be putting in a custom ported box.

I have 2 jl 10s that the previous owner had custom boxes built for the rear glove box areas. They actually looked pretty good and there were really only 2 reasons I didn't reuse them. One being that I really wanted a ported box and wasn't sure the airspace would work out right. The other being that the magnets for the JL speakers I think were a tight fit and don't think anyway in the world the sa10s would have fit.

beezee

iTrader: (19)

May be I should have explained better. The wires from the headunit are the RCA conections. I used 12 awg. Running them through the doors just need some patience. With my Kickpanel pods those wires are now watste. I made the Kickpanels myself. The tweeters are in the A-Pillars. I will find the link that helped me make them.

beezee

iTrader: (19)

I basically followed this thread step by step. My A-pillar pods and kickpods look very much like that. I love working on my car and I take my time to do things right.
I have 2 JL 10s as well in Zenclosures box under strut

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...z-install.html

beezee

iTrader: (19)

I have the crossovers under the seats.

cannonja

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the link. I actually was looking at that thread a few weeks ago. His stuff turned out really nice!

I am still debating on running through the doors. My gut tells me to go ahead and do it once and do it right. That is normally my motto when I work on things.

How exactly did you run it through the door? Did you do the solder trick and run it through the plastic part of the harness?

beezee

iTrader: (19)

Yes. Worked out good. The size and rigidity of the 12 awg wire helped

VO...

iTrader: (25)

I'll just add as much as I can recall to the thread. I'm pretty positive I used 6.5 2-way coxials in the rear. The entire back plastic panel had to come off to fit the speakers in the metal frame. In the begining I actually detached the stock plastic speaker grill and was going to mount the speakers through the cutout, but it didn't have a large enough diameter to squeeze the 6.5's through. That's why I had to take the entire rear panel off. I don't recall needing spacers for mine however. I did run new wiring.

Regarding the fronts. I used 6.5 components. I seems too hard to squeeze 2 new sets of wires through the exisiting loom(1 wire set for the tweets and 1 for the mid-bass driver), so I drilled a hole into the side of the door as well as another hole into the car frame. The hole in the car frame led directly into the kick panel. I used rubber grommets to prevent abrasion. From there I ran the wires to the cubby hole behind my driver's seat. Inside the cubby is where I have my amps and cross overs for the components...