(NSFW) Setting droop? SPL rear mid links and in general
10-19-2011, 05:26 PM
#1
(NSFW) Setting droop? SPL rear mid links and in general
How many inches are you guys setting your droop to on your rear coilovers. I just redid my ready suspension with the SPL rear midlinks. SPL suggested 1/2" droop. Quick measurements indicated that I've been sitting my Stance OEM style coilovers on the bumpstops for the past 3 years. 
Increased the length on the strut almost 1.5" and ended up with a droop of ~.75" for the ride height I set the mid links to.
I've google searched, but you'd be amazed that most of the links come up for RC cars. WTF? I'm setting the car up for the drag strip/hwy rolls.
I basically let the suspension hang and then set the strut just a little higher to keep tension on the spring. That gave me the 3/4" droop. I can go less but not much more.
And some Megan Daniels for good measure
Increased the length on the strut almost 1.5" and ended up with a droop of ~.75" for the ride height I set the mid links to.
I've google searched, but you'd be amazed that most of the links come up for RC cars. WTF? I'm setting the car up for the drag strip/hwy rolls.
I basically let the suspension hang and then set the strut just a little higher to keep tension on the spring. That gave me the 3/4" droop. I can go less but not much more.
And some Megan Daniels for good measure
Last edited by str8dum1; 10-19-2011 at 05:29 PM.
10-19-2011, 05:50 PM
#5
i alrady tried to update the main title but all it did was update the title inside the thread. 
droop is the measurement between unloaded suspension and loaded suspension. Basicaly you lift the car and measure how much distance between piston and stop there is. Then compress the suspension with the jack until teh car slightly lifts off the jack stands and remeasure the distance. The difference is droop. This is only critical in OEM style coilover suspension setups. But surprising, very little discussion about it since Stance makes no guidelines.
I really had no idea how to set my struts until i tried to setup my SPL rear midlinks and realized I had set my strut length WAY toooo short. I'm pretty intuitive when it comes to DIY so I can imagine alot of other people could be in the same boat. SPL just gives a generic 1/2" setting but I'm sure that optimized per driving habits.
droop is the measurement between unloaded suspension and loaded suspension. Basicaly you lift the car and measure how much distance between piston and stop there is. Then compress the suspension with the jack until teh car slightly lifts off the jack stands and remeasure the distance. The difference is droop. This is only critical in OEM style coilover suspension setups. But surprising, very little discussion about it since Stance makes no guidelines.
I really had no idea how to set my struts until i tried to setup my SPL rear midlinks and realized I had set my strut length WAY toooo short. I'm pretty intuitive when it comes to DIY so I can imagine alot of other people could be in the same boat. SPL just gives a generic 1/2" setting but I'm sure that optimized per driving habits.
Last edited by str8dum1; 10-19-2011 at 05:51 PM.
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10-19-2011, 08:27 PM
#8
Registered User
http://cdn.splparts.com/tech/SPLRMLZ33.pdf
Has droop instructions that didn't come with my set. Let me know how noisy your mid links are, my right side makes alot and am not sure if normal yet.
Has droop instructions that didn't come with my set. Let me know how noisy your mid links are, my right side makes alot and am not sure if normal yet.
10-20-2011, 09:41 AM
#10
Registered User
Been trying to find a good thread,
http://www.corner-carvers.com/forums...ght=rear+droop
there's some good info, but it's giving me a headache
http://www.corner-carvers.com/forums...ght=rear+droop
there's some good info, but it's giving me a headache
10-20-2011, 05:58 PM
#12
I read that thread, best post I found:
Msquared-"I think it's probably worth stating clearly and plainly that in terms of limiting body roll and/or adding roll stiffness to one end of a car, droop limiters don't do anything magically that swaybars or springs or bump stops wouldn't do. All of these devices accomplish the same thing: they add roll stiffness to the end of the car they are on. The only difference is in the progressiveness of their actions and, in the case of bumpstops, the direction of suspension travel in which they act."
In your case you can adjust droop so the point is not about the limiters, rather about the criticality of minute droop settings in most situations.
After our sus assy has reached the end of the spring travel, I think there is very little benefit in allowing for additional travel (dampened or un-dampened). At that point the only weight acting to keep your wheel on the ground is your unsprung mass plus the force of a helper spring if you have one. And again youd have to be close to lifting a wheel or airborne to get there.
The idea is to be on the spring and in the damper at all times.
Msquared-"I think it's probably worth stating clearly and plainly that in terms of limiting body roll and/or adding roll stiffness to one end of a car, droop limiters don't do anything magically that swaybars or springs or bump stops wouldn't do. All of these devices accomplish the same thing: they add roll stiffness to the end of the car they are on. The only difference is in the progressiveness of their actions and, in the case of bumpstops, the direction of suspension travel in which they act."
In your case you can adjust droop so the point is not about the limiters, rather about the criticality of minute droop settings in most situations.
After our sus assy has reached the end of the spring travel, I think there is very little benefit in allowing for additional travel (dampened or un-dampened). At that point the only weight acting to keep your wheel on the ground is your unsprung mass plus the force of a helper spring if you have one. And again youd have to be close to lifting a wheel or airborne to get there.
The idea is to be on the spring and in the damper at all times.
Last edited by guitman32; 10-20-2011 at 06:07 PM.
10-21-2011, 01:36 AM
#14
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Yeah, and they have the threaded lower perch so you can corner weight, they accept 2.5 inch ID coilover springs making rate changes more feasible, they use an eccentric lockout and adjust toe from an adjustable rod end so your alignment cant slip, and they are a little lighter than the stock bucket.
10-21-2011, 09:32 AM
#16
Registered User
Only lighter because of the spring, buckets actually heavier. They look too good, its annoying when they get scritched up.
OP, why didn't you use the eccentric lockouts?
SE, you see in the pics why you need the lockouts on the camber arms? Even if they don't slip its just kinda aesthetically annoying.
OP, why didn't you use the eccentric lockouts?
SE, you see in the pics why you need the lockouts on the camber arms? Even if they don't slip its just kinda aesthetically annoying.
10-21-2011, 01:29 PM
#17
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I'm so confused lol
Ok I have swift spec R springs would I able to do the mid-links or are they only for some coilovers or ..?
Don't mean to jack your thread, op, just never understood the concept and wanna clarify.
Ok I have swift spec R springs would I able to do the mid-links or are they only for some coilovers or ..?
Don't mean to jack your thread, op, just never understood the concept and wanna clarify.
10-21-2011, 01:38 PM
#18
Registered User
more droop insights:
http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/shocktune.html
this might help visualize why to set it right
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQa7PCMRF44
SE-you need 2.5" I.D. springs; smaller than the size for the O.E buckets. Plus you have to get the right length for your height adjustment range.
http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/shocktune.html
this might help visualize why to set it right
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQa7PCMRF44
SE-you need 2.5" I.D. springs; smaller than the size for the O.E buckets. Plus you have to get the right length for your height adjustment range.