l2frankie

iTrader: (4)

My 350z breaks seem to be a little weak. As far as break pad, rotors, etc everything is fine. the problem am having is when pressing the breaks while in nuetral. i have to press maybe an inch for me to actually feel/see my car breaking. any have an issue with this?

npr350z

iTrader: (1)

its spelled brakes*
sounds like you need to bleed the lines.

l2frankie

iTrader: (4)

didnt even notice my spelling error on that one thanks. ill give that a try next week. had someone else tell me the same thing but i just thought he was full of **** since half the time he is

npr350z

iTrader: (1)

its all good, i often misspell things. the unofficial official "expert"?

Sick an Twsd

iTrader: (14)

Bleed the lines and you should be good to go!

l2frankie

iTrader: (4)

little update. i just checked my lines. seems to have no air in it. my rear brakes seem alittle low. i been told that can be the cause of my car squeaking/ soft brake pedal.

Z1NONLY

iTrader: (2)

Checked your lines? I'm not sure I understand.

Did you completely bleed the brake fluid or did you just visually "check" the lines?

I have a base model and the only time I experience what you are describing, is when I had air in my brake lines. Bleeding the brakes fixed the problem every time.

l2frankie

iTrader: (4)

i didnt completely bleed the breaks. i just visually looked. 1st time ever bleed brakes

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

Let's try again- bleeding the BRAKES means replacing the old brake fluid with fresh DOT3/4 fluid. Brake fluid can absorb water over time and won't compress effectively, Start with the Z up on jackstands and remove all wheels. Start with the RR first, then do the LR, the RF and finish with the LF. Do a little research and your brakes will thank you.

l2frankie

iTrader: (4)

alright thanks for the advice. i did very little research prior to looking at the lines. i was just under the impression that it can be air since someone told it that it a possibility. ill be looking into buying that power bleeder kit i read on some on the forums here

dcains

iTrader: (15)

There is supposed to be some initial free travel in the pedal, and 1" is about right. How does the pedal feel with the engine off, with the vacuum booster empty? In that case, it should be much firmer, with less free travel. If you pump it quickly a few times, and the pedal gets higher/firmer, that could indicate air in the lines.

jtbinvalrico

Brother.....you're most of the way there. You've got interest and initiative. Can I strongly suggest you have someone who knows their way around the underside of a car help you out with the bleeding. There's a few tips and tricks that a guy who's done it will be able to show you along the way, things that can save you a bit of aggravation.

Of course, like many things automotive, you'll come out on the other side knowing how to do it and seeing that it really wasn't all that hard once you know the ins and outs.

VO...

iTrader: (25)

You can also bleed the brakes with the 2 person method. Have someone inside pump the brakes a few times, then on the last pump hold the pedal down while you open the caliper bleed valve. When solid fluid is coming out, close the valve. Sometimes a bubbling suddy mixture of fluid and air comes out. That's the air leaving the system...That caliper is now done. Move to the next one...

EDIT: You may also just need brake fluid. Something as simple as that. As the pads wear down, more fluid from he reservoir gets sucked into the system. Adding more fluid will fill that void. But remember when you replace the pads to open the reservoir and be prepared for some fluid to perhaps overflow as you push the caliper pistons in with new pads.

l2frankie

iTrader: (4)

thanks for the advice guys. if i cant get a 2nd person for whatever reason ill be buying the kit. im assuming DOT3 might be the best for daily use? no tracking/ autocross here.

DarkCreep

iTrader: (1)

Yup, dot 3 will be perfectly fine.