toe bolt - seized washer
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toe bolt - seized washer
I need some help.
I'm in the middle of installing KW V1s and SPC Camber arms and bolts and I am having an issue getting one of the toe bolts off.
I got the nut off and spent a lot of time wrenching the bolt, but it wouldn't budge! I take a look and see that the nut-side washer spun on the bolt and seized itself.
Do you guys have any advice on how to get this sucker off?
Can I live without installing the toe bolts and just have the camber arms?? At the minimum drop which is .8", would the toe be off by much?
The car is my daily driver. I do not and have no plans on ever tracking it.
Thanks.
I'm in the middle of installing KW V1s and SPC Camber arms and bolts and I am having an issue getting one of the toe bolts off.
I got the nut off and spent a lot of time wrenching the bolt, but it wouldn't budge! I take a look and see that the nut-side washer spun on the bolt and seized itself.
Do you guys have any advice on how to get this sucker off?
Can I live without installing the toe bolts and just have the camber arms?? At the minimum drop which is .8", would the toe be off by much?
The car is my daily driver. I do not and have no plans on ever tracking it.
Thanks.
#2
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Rotate bolt to line the washer back up with the key way , the tap the bolt out with a mallet
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#4
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It's on the spring bucket I see, you are installing toe bolts. Just hammer the thing out, who cares if you destroy it.
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I would say PB Blaster, but serious...just hit it with a hammer...
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My muffler was in the way so I had to hit it for a while at some pretty creative angles, but I got it out!
Thanks guys
Just realized my rotary tool isn't powerful enough to handle the job of lengthening the slots though..
Thanks guys
Just realized my rotary tool isn't powerful enough to handle the job of lengthening the slots though..
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Round file will work wonders
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also, take note - looking at your pics closely you can see that the RAISED "flat" areas on each side are deformed. When you slot and install after market toe bolts you need to physically stand there and watch the alignment tech loosen the nut side and ensure he doesn't deform those RAISED "flats" any further.
if he is not paying attention and puts a wrench on the head and simply yanks on it - the flats will simply get more and more deformed and turn to even more crap!.
when alignment is done - get a permanent marker and mark a line across the toe bolt washer and the subframe to keep as a reference - do this so that you can easily inspect it by laying on the ground and looking with a flashlight from the rear....keep an eye on your rear toe for movement - SINCE the RAISED "flats" are screwed up and you cant relay on the washer staying in place, hence toe staying in "alignment spec".
Make sense?
see, all your wrenching and yanking, YOU yourself destroyed the flats.
For a daily driver you will be fine, tighten your toe bolts nice and tight, mark reference line with a marker and monitor....- it is what it is now...
-J
if he is not paying attention and puts a wrench on the head and simply yanks on it - the flats will simply get more and more deformed and turn to even more crap!.
when alignment is done - get a permanent marker and mark a line across the toe bolt washer and the subframe to keep as a reference - do this so that you can easily inspect it by laying on the ground and looking with a flashlight from the rear....keep an eye on your rear toe for movement - SINCE the RAISED "flats" are screwed up and you cant relay on the washer staying in place, hence toe staying in "alignment spec".
Make sense?
see, all your wrenching and yanking, YOU yourself destroyed the flats.
For a daily driver you will be fine, tighten your toe bolts nice and tight, mark reference line with a marker and monitor....- it is what it is now...
-J
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