My 2003 350z has the rear axle click issue; I was able to find some good information from various sources but nothing as comprehensive as what I'm about to post.

Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) NTB04-065b

TSB .PDF:
http://www.notre350z.com/forum/files...ClickClack.pdf

Symptom:
A “clicking” noise is coming from the left and/or right rear axle (driveshaft) when accelerating from a stop.

Symptom Video with Sound:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WcxT7Vdbfuo

Other reference:
http://g35driver.com/forums/engine-d...xle-fixed.html

This is my personal method and experience, I'm not a mechanic, but the following steps worked for me. Disclaimer: I assume no responsibility for work performed following these directions.

Let's get started...

Step 1:
Lift rear of car with jack, remove lugs and wheel.

Wheel removed, cotter pin and axle nut visible.

Step 2 (if applicable):
Remove wheel spacer. Cotter pin will not come out if left on.

Spacer removed.

Step 3:
Remove Cotter Pin. Use pliers to straighten the long, bent end and slide out.

Cotter pin straightened for removal.

Step 4:
Put wheel back on and tighten lugs.

Step 5:
Lower Car to ground, Start engine (for brake assistance), apply brakes. This will prevent the car from moving when you go to step 6. If you don't apply the brakes the torque you apply will only spin the axle instead of unscrewing the nut. You may not have to put your car on the ground but there is so much force being applied you can rock the car enough to push it off the jacks.


Step 6:
Using a breaker bar, 32 mm axle socket, and extension/cheater bar/pipe remove the axle nut. It's on there tight! Use a beefy enough breaker bar and long enough pipe and it will come off. If you use a smaller breaker bar it can sheer the end off as shown, like I said, it's on there tight...



Step 7:
Raise car, place on jack stands, remove wheel. (Some remove the caliper and brake rotor, I completed the service without performing this step and didn't have any issues).


Step 8:
Using 9/16" socket and wrench loosen the 6 bolts/nuts on the differential side of the axle. If you are in neutral you can spin the axle so all the bolts are easy to reach.

4 of the 6 bolts

Removing the bolts

Step 9:
Mark the axle and hub as shown in figure 1 of the TSB .pdf. With all 6 bolts removed, the differential side of the axle will come off. Push/pull the axle until it slides out. The axle will barely squeeze out of there, if you're persistent, it's a tight squeeze but it can be done.

Mark it up

Push it out

Axle out

Step 10:
Clean the axle with a wire brush and apply the new grease.

Dirty axle

Clean axle

Greased axle

Step 11:
Re-install the axle with the assembly rotated 180 degrees from the mark made in step 9, as shown in figure 3 of the TSB .pdf.

Reverse the disassembly instructions to re-install everything, torque to specs per the TSB and you're ready to roll.

Hope this helps!

J

 

Good job. You did NOT buy and replace all the parts recommended in the service bulletin?

 

Thanks guys, just want to make it easier for people in the future.

Correct, I did not replace the bolts/washers/nuts/pin as per the TSB. If someone with more mechanical experience wants to chime in on whether or not this could be an issue please let me know!

The part #'s for these items are listed in the .pdf and can be purchased here:

Washer:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/0891514...-p-187798.html

Nut:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/39600b-...4_715_778_799&

Bolt:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/39600a-...4_715_778_799&

Pin:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/43262a-...8-p-15796.html

Parts Total:


Edit:
I went ahead and ordered the parts since they're cheap, $48 for everything shipped.

 

i had the clickin noise and all i did was use an impact gun on both axle nuts untill it could be tourqed anymore and the noise went away...the axle nuts loosen while driving which causes the clicking..so everyone just tighten those nuts..

 

I just did this yesturday. All I did was pop the axle nut off (32mm, you can rent the socket for free at autozone), pushed the axle in as far as I could, squirt some brake greese (that I got from autozone for a dollar) where the axle meets the hub, and retorque the nut down (fsm states 177ft lbs but my torque wrench only goes up to 150 so I just went a little more than that with a breaker bar) and no more clicking now.

 

OP, did you use Molykote M77 grease? If so, where did you buy it? If not, what gray grease did you use?

Thanks,
Aaron

 

OK Guys. took off the rear axles, but they werer like seized on. So i started tapping em with a rubber malet, and that didnt do ****. So i carefully used my hammer, n i nicked the edge of the thread on both axles. So i tried to fix the threads w a hack saw and a file. Thought i had em perfect, visually at least. When i put the nut on, they were a little tight, to i just pushed it through. Ends up i totally ****ed up the threads now. **** !!! So i called Riverside Infiniti n they say they are like $2000 something for the 2 rear axles. **** !!! So luckkily my homie has a connect @ a nissan wreck yard. Its a HELL of a savings, but still. Thats $$$ i wasnt planning on spending.

SO BE VERY CAREFULL WHEN TAPPING OUT THE REAR AXLES. iF YOU HAVE TO USE A HAMMER, USE A 2X4 OR SOMETHING INBETWEEN THE 2 SO YOU DONT **** UP THE THREADS. GOOD LUCK

 

Use a rubber or plastic hammer if you are in danger of messing with the threads.

 

This method worked for me for about two years and then i had to do it again. I have a 04.5

I would recommend OP's method as it is much more of a permanent solution.

Great write up!

 

WOW...a mallet in lieu of a hammer would have been much cheaper!

Another method that may have helped would have been to use an impact wrench to tighten them a bit first then back the nut off. This might have broke the axel loose and little to no need of the "hammer method".

 

Wondering....I get this clicking sound pretty loud when i change gears...esp to reverse...it clicks a couple of times as the car does its normal little jolt...could this be the same problem....

 

What happens if I just decided I could live with the clicking? To me it's not that bad, and with the music bumping, I don't notice it, but it is there none the less.

 

did this last week, I used an impact gun to remove the 32mm bolt, but a torque wrench to put it back on. Easy and worked like a charm

Great write-up

 

will the clicking eventually return?

 

thanks to the OP for the useful info!! I'm starting to hear some noises too in the rear and i'm wondering if it's related to this rear axle issue. Instead of a clicking noise, i hear more of a knocking noise...and it usually happens when i'm going at very slow speeds (most noticeable when I'm crusing around in a parking lot)...and not neccesarily only when i'm accelerating like the OP has said.

For those who are familiar with the problem, do you think this is related? All your help are much appreciated!

Yorick

 

I've had that problem. It is also from the rear axle. There is a TSB for it and you should be able to get it repaired under warranty.

 

i have the same exact problem and went to the dealership to find the solution. The guy i always go see told me its a really common problem and after re-greasing should be good for a while. like stated above its also covered under warranty

 

i am just wondering, even tho if have the clicking noise then will anything happen?? or just the noise only??? is there any big issue about it???

 

i dont think there are any issues besides the annoying noise. haha

 

^^ that's what i thought too.......so just the noise....no big deal...