Did this yesterday. Used regular copper anti-seize.
Got rid of the click!!!!!!!

 

Great write up - and thanks for the Pics - a 1000 words they say.. I do have a question tho... Resassembly is not 'exactly' like disassembly. Specifically - You said the axle nut was a beotch to get off. Do you happen to know the torque specs on that axle nut?

 

it should be 177 ft-lbs, i will be doing this soon too.

 

Our 04 Murano makes the same noises, FWD not AWD. The service tech said it causes no harm but they could pull it apart and grease if we want (out of warranty).

Now my 06ZR I just picked up does the same thing sometimes, only really notice it with the top down.

I think I will leave it alone. At least my Chevy truck does not do it.

 

This is what I did last year because I didn't want to replace all of the driveshaft nuts and bolts as stated in the Service Manual. A tech at the local stealership told me to do it this way since they wouldn't cover it under warranty even though my drivetrain warranty was still valid. Nissan Canada said only REPLACING broken driveshafts are covered and not SERVICING them with grease. Idiots. But oh well I got it done. No more clicking under normal driving but my right side clicks when I power hard out of left hand corners at the race track. So I may have to do this service again.

Also, I would recommend replacing all of the nuts and bolts as per the Service Manual because I believe the nuts are "mechanical lock" type and the threads on the nut and bolt are damaged when reusing them.

 

Well its been almost a year since I posted that ^ and still no more clicking or problems of any sort

 

WOW, I have battling this stupid problem for 4-5 years on my 03 touring and it kept getting worse!!!!! Now I am ready to sell it (I love the car but need a 4 seater) and get an M3 and want the new owner to not have to deal with it.

This WORKS!!!!!! Initially, a couple years ago, I tried to tighten every suspension part, lubed every joint and pivot, etc.....NOTHING. I even tried to tighten the axle and it didn't correct it.

Finally got the tools today and tried to tighten it more as an easy fix, NOTHING. So I followed these instructions and BINGO!!!! No more creaks! Thank you so much. I am very **** about my car, hate rattles and noises in my and out of my car. I can't believe I finally get it fixed when I am getting ready to sell it

 

do not ignore the axle click noise. it's basically your axle unscrewing itself loose.

https://my350z.com/forum/wheels-and-...-replaced.html

 

I just wonder, step 1 and step 2 , wheel already remove..but step 4 put wheel back on and tighten nut...why put wheel back on ?? for what???
I have to this job..so wanna make sure..

 

can anyone explain to me why the hell that mark on axle and hub has to be done

 

did this the other day. the point of that is so the axle can be reinstalled 180 degrees where it originally was after u take it out and grease it. the hardest part of the whole job is squeezing the axle in and out. otherwise it only took me about 45 minutes. i used an impact to take the axle nut off.

 

If I'm looking at my CV Joint per step 10 on the 1st page is it an issue if that thin bit of metal the runs around the joint closest to the threaded area is bent?

Does this make any difference to the function or fit of the piece? Ok or best/safer to replace it?

 

retightening it doesnt really work. I retightened it about 2 weeks ago and the noise is slowly but surely coming back.... going to take it apart and grease it up today, see if that helps.

 

Okay, i Just recently did this on a friend of mines z.........

Yes, I really think that the click noise itself is generated from that thin metal bending under load and making the click noise......Nissan with the TSB is simply masking the metal on metal contact with the MOLBEAM grease or whatever they are calling out for....

bent im sure is what maybe causing the noise moreover or what not....I highly doubt its anything that you would need to replace........greese it nice and thick and reinstall... you should be fine..

We used hi temp anti-seize compound lubricant and it worked well......maybe it wont last as long, or may wash off easier, but thats what my friend showed up with, and its his car,....so thats what we used..........

Removing the axle is, if anything, the hardest part........if your lowered on lowering springs then of course space is even more limited since it draws in tighter the spring bucket.............
AND
if you have some crazy exhaust then your exhaust piping can even get in the way of the diff flange end of the axle when trying to pull it out...

if your on stock suspension then it still is a tight fit, but its a lot easier than if your lowered on springs....

the spindle end sorta makes contact with the spring bucket and the rear end link and it makes for a tight area when removing and reinstalling... but its not anything that cant be done...

Yeah, i agree, the re tightening is a hit or miss.........tightening leaves a metal on metal contact in there with out adding any grease.........sure it may work for those that have lost torque on that nut, but I highly doubt it will eliminate it completely forever....

IMHO, if your gonna wanna eliminate the click noise for good, do the job and grease the axle........and even then grease can wash away on a part exposed to heat and the elements, so ya never know if you may need to do it again....

-J

 

+1 ^^ What he said. I done mine today and so far no clicking

 

I've got a few questions on his TSB or DIY. 1) what is it mean by re-install the axle with the assembly rotated 180 degrees from the mark made in step 9. SHouldn't the two marks match instead of 180 degrees from one another?
2) Where exactly should be greased? The bottom of the notches?
3) what is the torque spec for the bolts on differential?
4) I got a bottle of brake grease in my garage. Is this ok to use?
thank you guys

 

+1^ on the mark.

Why do I need this mark anyway and what do I do if I want to change my axle??? There is no marks on the new one...

 

I would think you would install same as removal (position) for balance (balanced at the factory?).

 

1. Im sure its just a common practice type note, as in the metal isnt back touching the identical part of the hub where it may have "formed" or become notched too.....or bent too..

2. Apply the grease here:

as shown in the how to on page 1 - thats where the axle makes contact with the splined/notched hub.

3. Torque spec is found in the FSM here:
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...anual-fsm.html

4. The grease the TSB calls out is a highly resistant to water grease. I wouldnt use anything thats not really thick and would stay and last a long time. its a hub, it sees wet weather/elements.......you dont want any cheap bearing grease that will wash away. bearing grease is usually trapped in a bearing cavity in a hub, this is an exposed location. you want something thicker and tackier and holds up against washing away. that being said, a $5 grease can be found at autozone that meets those requirements and can last a long time.........go, read and pick a good one....how long it will last? well see i guess....its a "maintenance" item........not a one time do it and forget it.....




if you have a new axle, then its a non issue.......your metal flange that needs greasing would be formed at all...

no, it would be balance about its center line if needed, so rotating it about its centerline wouldnt have any adverse affect...and i doubt the axle is........the shaft of the axle maybe, but i don't see any added "weights" spot welded on it
or
even machined cuts that indicate it being a balanced factory part.

either way..its fine..

Ive done many axle click fixes on may Z's already....all were fine after..
-J

 

Which other grease can be used to lubricate the axle?