shiftdrift06

iTrader: (24)

If your bypass valve leaks under boost, it is usually because the valve is not fully closing. Internal build up and corrosion can cause the valve to stick. Taking it apart is pretty simple and straight forward.

Time: 15-20min

Tools:
Snap Ring Pliers
Allen Keys
Assorted Wrenches / Sockets
Steel Wool/Sand Paper
Carb Cleaner

Step. 1 Remove the BPV from the intercooer piping, should be two 11mm bolts and the vacuum hose.

Step 2. On the back side, you will see the snap ring that holds the BPV together. Use the plier and squeeze the ring together and pull up and away. The top blue half should come off.



Step 3. This will leave you with the blue top, spring/retainer, and lower half/diaphragm.


Step 4. Using an allen key on the valve bottom and size 10mm socket on top. Loosen the shaft, this will seperate the Diaphragm from the BPV lower half.



Step 5. Yuck, look at all that corrosion. Time to clean! I used steel-wool to knock most of the corrosion and did a final pass with carb cleaner.



Step 6. Add a light layer of grease on the shaft.


Step 7. Do step 4-1 in reserve and your done!


Still leaking BPV? Troubleshooting.

1. O-Ring - Check the O-ring on the Blue Circulate Plate on the bottom. (see step 4 picture) If it is rip, order one from Vortech or match one up. If it loose, just apply a small coat of RTV to back side to hold it in place.

2. Vacuum Line - Make sure your vacuum line is secure and not split/crack.

3. Diaphragm - If the diaphragm is ripped, it will not hold pressure. To test it, remove the BPV. Push and hold the valve open and hold place your thumb over the vacuum port. When you let go of the valve, it should stay open while your thumb holds vacuum over the vacuum port.

4. Spring adjustment - The BPV can leak under high boost if there is not enough tension on the spring. The adjustment is on top of the of the BPV. Loosen the locking nut, and with an allen key, turn the stud clockwise to increase tension on the spring. Tighten the locking nut when done.

alexml

the bypass valve have a vacum line to conect some tube, right? is it supose to conect to where??
sorry for my ignorance

- bigc -

iTrader: (18)

the vacuum line should be connected to a port on your intake manifold. it needs to see vacuum in order to work correctly.

alexml

like the litle niple on the front the intake manifold?
can i connect the BPV and the boost gauge in the same niple on the manifold?

another thing...
The intake manifold at idle is always making vacum? why?

- bigc -

iTrader: (18)

Yes
Yes, but you will need a t-fitting.
You are supposed to be in vacuum at idle.

alexml

thanks bigc
i already installed so mutch thing that my brain stoped.

alexml

[IMG]<a href="http://s1281.beta.photobucket.com/user/Alexdaxphotobucket/library/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a505/Alexdaxphotobucket/7enginebay_zps20753a14.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"/></a>[/IMG]

this is the conection
its all good and working fine

- bigc -

iTrader: (18)

^ sweet, glad it worked out for you

EliteZ

iTrader: (1)

What size snap ring pliers do you suggest? I took mine apart to clean it, made the mistake of installing the blue plate that seals the hole backwards, and misplaced the seal (doh!!!). No harm done, but now I have to track down a new O-ring (dimensions 31mm ID, 2.5mm W, 36mm OD) and I no longer have access to snap ring pliers that I had used (which were a PITA, and kept slipping out of the snap ring holes)