iamdigital

iTrader: (44)

Okay, I've been searching the forums for the last couple days and at one time there was a good thread on how to do this but it is deleted. I've also PM'd a Z Zen master for the details and gave it a shot as the Z was getting hot. Here's what I'm doing:

Idle car to tempature
Put funnel in radiator spout
Fill funnel with coolant
Rev car from 3K-5K RPM a couple times

What happens next is the PITA I'm having. Bubbles will come up but they are followed by coolant spewing out of the radiator and funnel. It bubbles up in big huge bubbles and spill out all over the place. Is there something I'm doing wrong and if not what the FK is going on?? I just bought a Greddy Coolant Breather too does this work/help in purging air? The car does have a KOYO radiator if that means anything. I'm gonna take to the shop to have it flushed but I don't want to try purging again until I know how to do it right. Thanks for any posts/help!

JAA

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

Well you've got the basic idea. You need to prevent air from getting back in. If you've got the overflow tank hooked up and it's not empty, then revving the engine (while parked) should get the air bubbles to release into the overflow tank. If the overflow tank ever runs empty, then you'll be sucking air back into the coolant system. So with the car cold, make sure there is at least some fluid in the overflow tank (enough to cover the entry port back to the radiator cap).

The FSM states opening the rear relief valve is the method to use while revving the engine - which works - but also makes a mess. Sometimes no way NOT to make a mess.

rookie

iTrader: (10)

If you know it's going to puke out, don't fill it up leave enough so it sucks in coolant instead of more air. The system is supposed to expand, especially when their is air in the system. If it starts puking plug the hole shut it off. Unplug the hole and it should suck in coolant.

wannabuy350z

iTrader: (27)

I've had this issue, and this is what you do:

1. fill the car with coolant till it cant take no more.
2. plug it
3. turn on engine
4. turn on heater (full blast)
5. let it set for a while
6. there is a bleeder next to the battery cover
7. with a flat head screw driver, slow open the bleeder
8. it should start blowing air.
9. once it stops, lock it again.
10. drive the car for a minute
11. if the temps are above half, dont drive it
12. park it for 15 minutes
13. refill coolant up (refill after bleeeder has been open will take a good 30 minutes)





good luck

iamdigital

iTrader: (44)

I was following directions Eagletangreen and some others posted by using a funnel. There is already air in my system I'm trying to get it out. Do I not need to use the funnel and only unscrew that relief valve to do this? I did shut off the engine when it puked out but how to get the air out if it's puking all over the place instead of just bubbling? Also, if air bubbles go into the overflow tank how do they escape? It's a sealed system no? Thanks

iamdigital

iTrader: (44)

Okay I'll try this. Should I fill the radiator directly till it'll take no more or the overflow tank. I see posts stating to never fill the radiator directly. So after I open and close the bleeder run the car for 15 turn off and fill coolant again till it'll take no more with car off or on?

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

NOTE IT IS CRITICAL THAT THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE BE FOLLOWED EXACTLY! IT IS TIME CONSUMING, HOWEVER, ESSENTIAL!




3.1 Remove bleader in the stock upper heater hose.



3.2 Fill radiator and coolant recovery reservoir with anti freeze coolant. It should take 10 quarts, including reservoir. It is important that the coolant is poured through the radiator filler neck at less than 1.5 quarts per minute, in order to allow air in the system to escape.



3.3 When the engine coolant overflows the at the bleader, re-install the bleader


3.4 Warm the engine to the normal operating temperature with the radiator cap installed.



3.5 Run the engine at 3,000 RPM for 10 seconds and then allow it to return to idle speed.



§ Repeat this action three times.



3.6 Stop engine and allow coolant temperature to drop below 120°F.



Use a remote electric fan to assist in this process.
If necessary, refill the radiator and reservoir up to the filler neck.


3.7 Repeat steps 3.3 to 3.6 at least two more times (it may take more) with the radiator cap installed, until the engine coolant level no longer drops.



3.8 Check the cooling system for leaks with the engine running.


3.9 Fully warm the engine and listen for the sound of coolant flow through the heater unit, inside the car; while running the engine from idle to 3,000 RPM, with the heater control set at several positions between cool and warm.



· Repeat this action three times



3.10 If any sound is heard, continue to bleed excess air from the cooling system, by repeating steps 3.3 to 3.6, until the coolant level no longer drops.


***...... the use of the tower funnels helps push air out.

JETPILOT

iTrader: (51)

???

JET

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

????

yes, you can use a tower funnel as has been previously discussed and it will help get the air out.

Once you have properly purged your system, there is no reason to routinely purge it again. Unless you have a situation where air is reentering the system... headlift, or you open up the fuel system by changing a thermostat for example

rrmedicx

iTrader: (54)

BTW, there is a specific funnel Eagletanggreen was referring to and its not a regular funnel. It is a $15 dollar kit but it has various parts/tips that make the fit perfect and air tight into the radiator filler neck. I believe he posted a picture in the other thread. If I can find it, I will post it up, but rest assured it solves the making-a-mess thing. It works great.

You insert the specialized funnel, fill with coolant maybe 1/2 way and run the car. You don't even need to stand by. It will cure itself. Works wonderfully.
Good Luck.

rookie

iTrader: (10)

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Sp...9649753&sr=1-1

Philthy

iTrader: (3)

You may also try jacking up the front of the car while going doing the above process - works great at letting the air escape and cuts down the process time in half.

rrmedicx

iTrader: (54)

Thats the one. Thanks... /\ /\ /\

GTM

iTrader: (12)

+1

Good luck to the O.P.!

coachk

iTrader: (21)

When I put my TT's on a few years ago, I purged it after the install and never again. No issues for me....

eagletanggreen

iTrader: (40)

Thats the one!

If you have crap all over the place when you purge you have a chit load of air in the coolant. That bursting of coolant all over the place goes away once most of the air is purged and eventually turns into bubbles in the funnel. I never had it burst out with my built motor, but with my stock motor it would burst out like you have mentioned. Keep purging till you have no bubbles, and then purge again a couple of days later. I purged my system again today, and for the second time I have had no air in the coolant. Since my last purge I have racked up 500miles and my car has not seen temps over 188 - 190.

Action taken -----> Logged!

Peace!

iamdigital

iTrader: (44)

Thanks guys. I'm flushing my system and bought that cooler. I've been at it for an hour now. One thing to note. If you are not removing the block passage drains then you need to flush with some coolant before you start adding or you'll have pure water in the block...

I'll update on results.

gothchick

iTrader: (12)

You'll be okay, the pure water will combine with the coolent mix when the motor goes through it's cooling cycles.

eagletanggreen

iTrader: (40)

In your initail purge it will take a while, and a couple of times. Purge it, let it cool, purge, let it cool, till complete. Thats what I do, but most people will tell you I am crazy?

iamdigital

iTrader: (44)

Okay! I think I've got all the air out of the system for now. As soon as I get the funnel kit I'm gonna take Eagle's approach. Here is what I did if anybody else is having this issue.

Flush:
1. Ran car until warm.
2. Unscrew drain plug on bottom driver side of radiator (this was a KOYO but OEM is same I think)
3. Then, open top radiator cap to release any vacum
4. Drain all fluid into my driveway (doh!)
5. Screw drain plug back into radiator
6. Fill radiator from top with water.
7. Run car with heater on reving up to 3K for 10-20 second intervals
8. Repeated steps 2-7 until clear water was draining from bottom of radiator
9. Once cooling system was completely cleaned of old coolant I started steps 2-7 2 times using Prestone 50/50 mix. I'm sure extra water wouldn't help but I wanted the system to be completely purrrfect and this will ensure that the entire system will be filled with the right mix of coolant/water.

Fill System with coolant:
1. Put funnel on top of radiator and timed my dump to 1 quart per minute (very slow and very boring)
2. Emptied overflow tank of old coolant and completely filled with new coolant.
3. Once radiator was completely full of coolant Start car and once at temperature revved it to 3K RPM for 10-20 second intervals. With Heater on full blast (at this point my heater was blowing ice cold)
4. Let car completely cool and open top radiator cap and fill to top again.

Purge:
1. After radiator is completely full run car for 2-3 minutes with heater on full blasts revving to 3K RPM.
2. Make sure the Greddy overflow tank is completely full and slowly open the pressure release valve on the heater piping close to the battery. You'll need a screwdriver to do this.

NOTE: Be very careful. Steam start blasting out of this combined with coolant spray and burned the ***** out of my face! Also, if the hose is sagging you'll have to prop it up to make sure that valve is the highest point in the system to make sure all gases escape.
4. Once steam has escaped it starts bubbling coolant/air slowly. Shut Valve
5. Make sure your overflow tank does not empty or it will suck air back into the system (I actually had to crack the lid and squeeze a funnel in there dumping more coolant in making sure the tube never rises from the liquid).
6. Let car cool down completely and repeat steps 1-6 until only coolant was coming from the release valve without any air/steam blast. (heater was blowing hot now). Again make sure to keep that overflow tank full.
7. Went for a very spirited drive and repeated steps 1-6 again.

Future:
I think all the air is free but I'm going to try the funnel/bubbling technique once the kit arrives.

Thanks for all the help guys.

JAA