ThatZGuy

Hello Community! This winter im going F/I with a Percision 6262 Turbo. Im wanting to Build my Bottom Block or I atleast wanted to buy the parts and then find a shop to Install them.

So my questions is..

What Parts do i need to Build the Bottom Block?
Rods,Pistons,Race Bearings, APR or APR L19 Head Studs.

Am i missing anything else to Build the bottom block. Im trying to Push over 400whp without to much strain on the motor.

I know this may be a hard and dumb question but any estimate's on what my WHP can look like after a Short Block rebuild? 450 whp 500whp?

Another question after I get the Rods and Pistons Balanced is that something I can do my self or should I pay a shop? I work on cars for fun and i would be accompanied by a Mechanic who works at a local car dealership who does all my work with me.

Thanks for reading!

ThatZGuy

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

This type of post begs more questions than answers. By the tone of your questions, I'd wager you haven't ever built an engine before. If so, you'd be right, it's a "hard and dumb" question to estimate how much horsepower an engine can develop. The better question might be whether you and your buddy could build an engine that won't seize upon startup.

Read a lot, and research even more. If you don't have the tools, shop or experience, it's a longshot you can achieve a perfectly built, precision engine build on your first try.

ThatZGuy

I understand what your saying, And yes i have never fully build a motor. Ive been apart of certain aspects of a rebuild but not there from start to finish so i dont quite understand but i want to. I have done all the maintenance work to my car and i work on friends with them. Ive added Clutch and Flywheel kits, 2 Turbo kits on a s13 and a AUDI RS4 along with all the basic work and routine maintenance. My Mechanic has had about 10 years rebuilding motors his family has done this type of work for years they restore muscle cars and sell them as a sidejob/hobbie. I have full faith we could do it right or maybe get by with some minor trial and error but I do understand the fact that having a shop that specializes in this would be better because they would be responsible for it and the trust would lie on them. So i will contemplate doing that i am just trying to avoid cost's where i can and if that could be labor that would be ideal. I want to bore my motor but at this time it ise not financially smart. If i had a shop do it i may look into getting it bored but thats just out of my range at the moment. As for the parts i have listed what is needed or am i missing something? Regardless of whether i build it or have a shop do it I want to know what i need so i can plan the parts expense's and start buying and see if i can go another step farther maybe with new cams and Valves.

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

OK- I'll try to be kind and ask just seven questions to help you out:

1) Exactly how many VQ engines has your buddy the mechanic built?
2) Do you have a garage (with engine building tools) available for several weeks?
3) What is your budget for this project?
4) How much do you have RIGHT NOW to put into the project?
5) How old is the Z you are building? and 6) how many miles?
7) How much hard research have you put into this project besides posting this question?

Speednz

Before I answer your question with some obvious missing components and factors, id like to see your answers to DK's question. People are going to shut you down because of how you asked but it is very plausible if you take your time and read up. My first engine build was my VQ when i was 18. Still running to this day. Not an easy build at all but you can do it.

ThatZGuy

OK- I'll try to be kind and ask just seven questions to help you out:

1) Exactly how many VQ engines has your buddy the mechanic built?

No he has never built a VQ engine it would be his first .
2) Do you have a garage (with engine building tools) available for several weeks? Yes we have 2 garages one full with tools and a lift and another empty garage if needed.
3) What is your budget for this project?

For this part of the bottom block build in looking into spending 2k-3k I want BC rods or Eagle and Weisco pistons or BC pistons have yet to decide if I wanna invest the extra cash which I probably will. I would spend $200 on a ACL rod and main bearing kit and $150 on APR 2000 connection rod bolts.
4) How much do you have RIGHT NOW to put into the project?

I've got 3.5k into a Kanji(Turbonetics Style) turbo kit precision 6262 turbo 600cc file injectors and 255lp walbro pump. Waiting to drop in this winter.

Already installed a bunch of parts last winter. Dc headers, full borla exhaust ( which I'm selling soon) plenum spacer, jwt clutch & Flywheel combo, cold air intake, and NGK Iridium Spark plugs sway bars and also pickup up some BC rollovers before spring.

5) How old is the Z you are building?
2003 touring
6) how many miles?
92k
7) How much hard research have you put into this project besides posting this question?

I have done a fair share of resurch but I can not find the forums with the specific answers I need. I'm not great at searching through post for the information I need. If you have any forums I should read I would appreciate that. All forums I've found don't specifically answer the soecif question I'm looking for which is what parts exactly are needed to do a short block rebuild.

Any more questions I am more than willing to answer. Thanks for the input.

Resmarted

iTrader: (2)

I spent a bit over 3k for my machining and assembly on my short block, and I already had bought most of the expensive bits (bearings, rods, pistons, wrist pin upgrades). That was with a steal from dynosty... And I would be hesitant to run off the shelf bearings. I had to get custom bearing set put together to have good tolerances all around.

Also what kind of experience does your buddy have in building motors?

ThatZGuy

My buddy has experience with rebuilding trucks, muscle cars, bmw Audi and Subaru and about all basic daily cars. He has his own shop and he works as a technitian( I thought he was a mechanic) at a Ford, chevy and GM car dealership service center. There he works on 2016 corvettes and trucks/cars. I'm up in the mountains so not much for import car builders here but I got in contact with a shop and may look into labor cost. And for sure looking into getting the motor bored and balanced.

Also I'll pm you back when I get off work or on a break.

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

http://www.importpartspro.com/st1vqloblni3.html

He probably doesn't have a vq35 torque plate

Conway_160

iTrader: (1)

You dont need a torque plate with an open deck motor.

Engloid

When you buy a good set of rods or pistons, they will usually already be balanced...meaning they weigh the same. The balancing that then needs to be done is on the crank. They balance it using the weight of rods, rings, pins, pistons and rod bearings. It's harder to find a shop to balance a 6cyl than a v8 or 4cyl because you have 6 rod journals. The 4 or 8cyl engines have 4 journals. What this means is a v6 balancing requires 6 Bob weights and many shops only have 4. Any time you change pistons, rods, or turn a crank, it needs to be rebalanced.

I have seen guys selling rebalanced cranks, as if it's worth more. It actually isnt, unless you get the entire reciprocating assembly.

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

For high performance purposes this is incorrect. General rebuilding sure. Otherwise provide a source

35reilly

Thank you

35reilly

Give the guy some credit. This is how you learn. We were all there at some point. Me personally would figure out what parts you want to go with, I would have a shop assemble the short block if your not comfortable doing it. Other wise you can have a mechiene shop do all the mechiene work and take all measurements for clearances and what not mark all parts ect to what cyl what goes and so on. Have everything marked. Get the pdf file for the manual and the proper tools. Your buddy should have them if you don't. Nothing crazy just basic cause the shop will have done most of the stuff that I would expect anyone to have u less there a mechiene shop! Just follow the manual!!! Make sure they use a torque plate when doing the block tho!! Idk where your getting it done but if your gonna do the math for what a shop will charge to do all the measures and mechiene work. For the extra few bucks may be worth it just to have them do the assembly also. Also L19 all day long!!! Upgrade the oil pump and go with arp main bolts as well. Good luck

Engloid

I spoke to arp about hardware. They told me that the L19 hardware is overkill, and that the regular 2000 grade is plenty enough to over 1000hp. If the manufacturer doesn't even recommend their highest grade, I believe them.

As for the torque plate...if your block deck and head are both flat, what is there to go wrong? Wouldn't you get more flex from improper torque procedure than by not using a torque plate? I just don't see how bolting two machined surfaces to each other will distort either one.

thatv35guy

iTrader: (1)

LOL, I'd never, ever, ever recommend recommend ARP 2000 head studs for VQ's...

35reilly

True statement right there!!!👍👍👍👍. L19 ALL DAMN DAY!!!!

35reilly

Assuming your at least getting it honed correct? If so ya need a torque plate!! If your just decking the no but why do a build and do all that work and not at least hone the block?

Resmarted

iTrader: (2)

Well considering you will want to torque the heads to 80+lbs, you do want to not only use l19's, but also use a torque plate

Engloid

You sure don't need a torque plate to hone a block.