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(sorry, but my scanner isn't working, otherwise I would have scanned and posted)
I received a letter from NNA today. They are extending the warranty coverage for the Radiator Fan Motor on 2004 - 2007 350Zs from 36 mo/36K mi to 84 mo/80K mi.
Fan motor failure causes the coolant temp to rise sending the car into limp mode.
If you've replaced a failed motor out of warranty, you will be reimbursed.
hm... i havent receive my letter.. anyways.. u guys receiving it because your are the original owner of the car right? i bought my second hand... it has 10k miles on it when i got it... anyways.. i think sometime i feel the hot air coming in... but when i turn on the fan the hot air becomes cooler... but turn the fan off it got hot... is that the symptoms of fan failure?? but when i popped the hood and turn on a/c both fan worked fine...???
I got my letter about 3 weeks ago, I bought my Z used.
hm... i think i should call them to find out what when wrong...u bought it used from a dealer or from a private party? i bought mine used from a private party...
hm... i havent receive my letter.. anyways.. u guys receiving it because your are the original owner of the car right? i bought my second hand... it has 10k miles on it when i got it... anyways.. i think sometime i feel the hot air coming in... but when i turn on the fan the hot air becomes cooler... but turn the fan off it got hot... is that the symptoms of fan failure?? but when i popped the hood and turn on a/c both fan worked fine...???
I'm a 2nd owner of this car with only 7,000 miles on it now.
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Nismo Cat Back, Nismo short throw, Konig Rims, Wolf Pop Charger, Motordyne 5/16, MREV
hm... i think i should call them to find out what when wrong...u bought it used from a dealer or from a private party? i bought mine used from a private party...
Dealer, Give Nissan a call.
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It sure dont feel like were going 130
I was replacing the AC Condenser about 2 weeks ago, but did not get the chance to because we needed a special AC disconnect tool. we took off the Radiator and the Radiator Fans. we drained the Radiator and removed all of the tubing connecting to it. We put more coolant inside of the radiator and the reservoir.
2 days ago when I was finally able to replace the AC Condenser, we noticed that the coolant in the reservoir was below minimum. However the car NEVER overheated.
So we replaced the AC Condenser 2 days ago. AC works great, haven't tried the heater yet. So I put more water (since we did it at a dealership) inside of the Radiator and the reservoir...I would say about 5 inches high in the reservoir, way over the Maximum line. Yesterday I did not notice the coolant level in the reservoir getting lower (this was aroung 4 pm). Today however, I noticed the coolant level at least dropping 2 inches inside of the reservoir (this is at 11 am). The car did not overheat either.
This was not done at a Nissan dealership. This was done at a Lexus dealership, since my cousin is a mechanic there and we did it there (for free of course).
Now, would the radiator fans not working cause the coolant inside the reservoir (and possibly the radiator) to drain?
How can I detect if there is a crack inside any of the hoses, and which should I look for? The coolant and what else? Also, the radiator does not have any cracks, I checked, and rechecked...and rechecked again.
Thanks for any help.
Last edited by JoEdaGiGGoLo; 12-23-2009 at 07:48 AM.
1) It's difficult to bleed all the air out of the system. You can't just fill it and assume it's full, you have to "burp" it and release air through the bleed screw behind the plenum.
2) No, the broke bad would have nothing to do with fluid levels.
And if there was a leak / crack in the hose...my car would have overheated on the first time? There was little, just ounces left in the reservoir the first time. From a centimeter below the MAX line to all the way below the MIN line.
Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavesZ#3
1) It's difficult to bleed all the air out of the system. You can't just fill it and assume it's full, you have to "burp" it and release air through the bleed screw behind the plenum.
2) No, the broke bad would have nothing to do with fluid levels.
Last edited by JoEdaGiGGoLo; 01-04-2010 at 08:37 AM.