mcarther101

iTrader: (8)

First start, monitoring oil pressure/coolant temp/leaks. Didn't get to drive it breaking it in yet though since there's still a bit of air in the coolant keeping temps around 200 degrees Fahrenheit, slightly high. Going to let it sit overnight so the air bubbles consolidate and hopefully get the last majority of them out tomorrow morning.


Going to throw the gopro on the window tomorrow during break in, and see how she sounds on the road! So far so good though!

I noticed oil pressure was high initially, but in retrospect, realize this was probably normal due to 1. Higher idle (1,000RPM) for cams, and 2. Possible differences in the new rev-up oil pump vs original non-rev-up.

Classy

iTrader: (7)

My idle was at 850 the 272 JWT cams, 1000 seems kinda high. On a side note, that was a fast turn around there on that motor

1cockyZ

iTrader: (46)

To remove the air bubble remove the vent and jack the front up. Run it with rad cap off filling as needed until it spits out the vent. Little messy but it works every time.

3hree5ive0ero

iTrader: (95)

Congrats!

mcarther101

iTrader: (8)

Thanks! Got the air bubbles out tonight with jacks/squeezing of hoses/funneling fluid into radiator while running lol.

Drove ~5 miles with my mechanic in the passenger seat monitoring temps w/ his scanner. All felt good, so I took her home breaking the engine in along the way. I probably looked like a crazy person, but tossed my hazards on occasionally and waved cars behind me on. Constantly accelerating/engine-braking from 2k-4k RPM for ~40 miles.

Car sounds and feels healthy. Engine pulls really strong, and I wasn't even near WOT or past 4k RPM. Really excited to get to 1,000 miles and let her rip. I do have some serious metal on metal vibrations in my exhaust though, must be rubbing somewhere... like stupid loud vibrations. Going to have to take a look at how the exhaust sits again on a lift.

Recorded the first drive on GoPro... but shitty camera f'kd me. I hate these camera's sometimes. Damn things turn themselves off randomly. Oh well... here's another iPhone video until I can actually get something legit. What do you guys think that ticking noise is at the end, valve springs or something? Sounds like something is just expanding/contracting from heat, and new clearances I would imagine. Also, I noticed power steering reservoir seemed to be like a little wave pool... this just from the cams shaking the car around a bit more? I can feel the cams at idle just sitting at a light, so think maybe that's what is making the power steering do that in the video. Steering feels fine, don't think it's boiling.


Some metal vibrations coming from inside my x-pipe? Could part of the catalytic converter broke off or metal from the old engine and be stuck in there?

mcarther101

iTrader: (8)

Just got back from Z1 a bit ago... tired, but don't have to work until the afternoon so here's the results!



Had an exhaust leak, Jon thinks my spark plugs might be fouled (which I agree... since I didn't change them from running them in the last engine with failed piston rings which saw lots of oil), cops showed up, and then the dyno broke haha...



As expected, OEM plenum is holding the car back. Exhaust is just as good as any other exhaust IMO...

Classy

iTrader: (7)

To answer your question, yes, very much so I had stalling problems. I took it in for re-tuning 2 times to try and work this out along with some other stuff but ultimately it did not get fixed via tha tune. I think it is a vacuum problem, but I never really did anything about it. I read some stuff about adding a port between the plenum and a valve cover or something? But I couldn't tell you for sure.

For me, it would stall going to neutral at odd times, not neccessarily hard throttle but also coming out of 5th or 6th slowing down in neutral. I got really got at clutch kicking it back running. Try searching around for something like I said, I think it was on this forum somewhere, might have been the FI Section, dunno.

mcarther101

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for the reply Classy. I just am trying to make sure everything with this build is as should be. The stalling is so infrequent it doesn't bother me, and I usually catch it, and blip the throttle before it stalls anyhow.

1cockyZ

iTrader: (46)

Byproduct of installing the NWP throttle body was more idle stability, it may not live up to their claims hp wise but to have the car drive better is nice.

Classy

iTrader: (7)

Actually, I think cocky might be on to something. In the 87mm tb thread, they were talking about the titan guys who did this and they had to drill a small hole in the tb plate to prevent stalling. It could be that an undersized Idle Air Port in the TB could cause the stalling when the plate closes. If the hole is the answer here, it would make the pressure equalize faster which could prevent the stall condition.

mcarther101

iTrader: (8)

Interesting, makes sense. Large cams are probably sucking up all the air at idle, causing the engine to want to stall depending on where they are when I go neutral/clutch-in. My idle RPM is 1,000 which is higher than what you said you had yours set to with these cams though, which might explain why it is almost a non-issue for me. I'd say 1/100 times do I see this, maybe less. It's also totally eliminated by heel-toe downshifting, and going neutral when engine RPM settles to idle speed.

Z33KLF

Very interesting topic! thanks for the information! great job!