---Winter storage Z---
10-07-2008, 08:31 PM
#1
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---Winter storage Z---
I'm going to storage my Z in about month or so. This is my second time storage my z, so i decided to search again lol..
Here is couple good info i found. Got this from chicagoz.com
To store the car:
* Change the oil and filter before you store it. The "impurities" in the oil can form acid, and this can degrade the engine's internals. The impurities are caused by the fuel/combustion/dirt/moisture that gets past the the piston rings, seals, and filters. A fresh oil change removes the gunk and gives you clean oil. If you don't change oil yourself, having it done and driving home to part the car will be sufficient.
* Inflate the tires to the maximum pressure on the sidewall. This will reduce any tendencies for the tire to flat spot - although this is not a real problem with modern/radial tires. Don't forget to lower the air pressure in the spring.
* Wash the car. A clean car is always better. A cover helps to keep the dust, etc. off the car.
* DO NOT "jack the car up". Don't store it on jack stands raised off the ground. That is a carry over from ancient times when old bias belted tires would flat spot and go bad. Storing a car with the suspension "drooped" is very bad on the rubber bushings, and will greatly accelerate the degradation of the rubber bushings. Even if flat spotting tires was a problem (it isn't), new tires are much, much cheaper than replacing the bushings in the suspension.
* DO NOT START THE CAR. Starting the car every couple of weeks is bad for the engine. Most of the impurities in the oil happen when you start the car. Running the car for a short time does not warm things up to the point that the impurities will be evaporated. In order to properly warm things up, you would need to take the car on a spirited drive for 30 - 60 minutes. Running it in the garage does no good at all, and is very bad on the engine.
* Add Stabil to the gas - this prevents the gas from going "bad" and/or forming varnish in the tank and fuel system.
Now, all that being said, the reality is that you can most likely just pull the car into the garage, connect up the battery Tender/MINDer/conditioner, and call it good. That's all most people do, and it's more than the typical car gets at a dealer (think about it, the typical car is made in Japan, loaded on a boat, transported for weeks, unloaded at the dock, loaded on a truck to the dealer, and parked - often for months - until it's sold. The someone buys a "brand new" car.
Most years, I simply park the car, connect my Battery MINDer, and call it good. If there's a nice warm day during the storage, I may take the car out for a nice drive - but only if the roads are clear and there is no salt on the road. I've never had a problem with my cars setting out a few months of winter. I usually don't even get around to doing a "special " oil change, unless the car was actually due for one.
And second one, from my350z.com
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...-g-winter.html
Any more info? or experience to share?
-JLee
Here is couple good info i found. Got this from chicagoz.com
To store the car:
* Change the oil and filter before you store it. The "impurities" in the oil can form acid, and this can degrade the engine's internals. The impurities are caused by the fuel/combustion/dirt/moisture that gets past the the piston rings, seals, and filters. A fresh oil change removes the gunk and gives you clean oil. If you don't change oil yourself, having it done and driving home to part the car will be sufficient.
* Inflate the tires to the maximum pressure on the sidewall. This will reduce any tendencies for the tire to flat spot - although this is not a real problem with modern/radial tires. Don't forget to lower the air pressure in the spring.
* Wash the car. A clean car is always better. A cover helps to keep the dust, etc. off the car.
* DO NOT "jack the car up". Don't store it on jack stands raised off the ground. That is a carry over from ancient times when old bias belted tires would flat spot and go bad. Storing a car with the suspension "drooped" is very bad on the rubber bushings, and will greatly accelerate the degradation of the rubber bushings. Even if flat spotting tires was a problem (it isn't), new tires are much, much cheaper than replacing the bushings in the suspension.
* DO NOT START THE CAR. Starting the car every couple of weeks is bad for the engine. Most of the impurities in the oil happen when you start the car. Running the car for a short time does not warm things up to the point that the impurities will be evaporated. In order to properly warm things up, you would need to take the car on a spirited drive for 30 - 60 minutes. Running it in the garage does no good at all, and is very bad on the engine.
* Add Stabil to the gas - this prevents the gas from going "bad" and/or forming varnish in the tank and fuel system.
Now, all that being said, the reality is that you can most likely just pull the car into the garage, connect up the battery Tender/MINDer/conditioner, and call it good. That's all most people do, and it's more than the typical car gets at a dealer (think about it, the typical car is made in Japan, loaded on a boat, transported for weeks, unloaded at the dock, loaded on a truck to the dealer, and parked - often for months - until it's sold. The someone buys a "brand new" car.
Most years, I simply park the car, connect my Battery MINDer, and call it good. If there's a nice warm day during the storage, I may take the car out for a nice drive - but only if the roads are clear and there is no salt on the road. I've never had a problem with my cars setting out a few months of winter. I usually don't even get around to doing a "special " oil change, unless the car was actually due for one.
And second one, from my350z.com
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...-g-winter.html
Any more info? or experience to share?
-JLee
10-07-2008, 08:45 PM
#2
This is exactly what I needed.
I have been putting off searching how to winterize my Z for a couple months now. I know I am going to find opinion after opinion after list after list of things to do. UGH. Stresses me out just thinking about it, and not knowing 100% what's the right way to do it. I'm a noob at storing a car. I was totally going to store it on jack stands too
Guess that's not happening anymore!
I've driven the car for 4 years now, and this is the first time I am winterizing her. Used to take her out once a week on dry roads, but got tired of hitting melting snow puddles w/ salt in them. Now it's time to keep her safe and sound in the garage for 3 months.
What's a battery MINDer, btw? Is that "the one" to get?
I have been putting off searching how to winterize my Z for a couple months now. I know I am going to find opinion after opinion after list after list of things to do. UGH. Stresses me out just thinking about it, and not knowing 100% what's the right way to do it. I'm a noob at storing a car. I was totally going to store it on jack stands too
Guess that's not happening anymore! I've driven the car for 4 years now, and this is the first time I am winterizing her. Used to take her out once a week on dry roads, but got tired of hitting melting snow puddles w/ salt in them. Now it's time to keep her safe and sound in the garage for 3 months.
What's a battery MINDer, btw? Is that "the one" to get?
10-08-2008, 06:27 AM
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i'm a noob at storing a car also. Yes, i know there is many info but it makes me wonder 'hat's the right way to do'But i found out for sure that,do not leave your car on the jack stand
-JLee
10-08-2008, 06:20 PM
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soes anyone have any idea on how to combat mice? traps have been set, but this is the first year since my cat has died. theres definately evidence that the mice are running around my garage. im trying to find if theres something i can put around the car to keep them away.
10-08-2008, 11:09 PM
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When storing on jackstands, place the stands under the suspension so the weight of the car stays on the suspension.
This is nice as I like to clean up the car or work on projects during the winter. With the car off the floor already, half the job is done.
Personally, I store mine with a full tank of gas. Less chance of condensation and less dangerous fuel vapors. (As I'll run a propane torpedo heater in the garage at times.)
This is nice as I like to clean up the car or work on projects during the winter. With the car off the floor already, half the job is done.
Personally, I store mine with a full tank of gas. Less chance of condensation and less dangerous fuel vapors. (As I'll run a propane torpedo heater in the garage at times.)
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11-10-2008, 02:38 PM
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Iight guys, just finished storage my car.
I went to lowe's picked up big A$$ wood and hard styrofoam.
And i cut them to 4 pcs, i put wood on concret first and top of that i put styrofoam and parked my car top of that. It's about 1 inch from ground.
Just washed up the car, got oil change, filled up the gas/stabil and put air in the tire ( 40 ~45 ) And covered it up.
Oh, i did not disconnect the battery or connect to tender, so i leave the hood unclose. I think i'im good to go.
I went to lowe's picked up big A$$ wood and hard styrofoam.
And i cut them to 4 pcs, i put wood on concret first and top of that i put styrofoam and parked my car top of that. It's about 1 inch from ground.
Just washed up the car, got oil change, filled up the gas/stabil and put air in the tire ( 40 ~45 ) And covered it up.
Oh, i did not disconnect the battery or connect to tender, so i leave the hood unclose. I think i'im good to go.
11-11-2008, 09:20 AM
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Do you guys have any recommendation for an all-weather cover for winter? I will not be able to store mine indoors this year, so I need to protect it from the elements. Where I live, "the elements" undoubtedly means snow.
11-12-2008, 06:10 AM
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^ oh sorry for misunderstood. I have no experience with covers, this is my first time. But quick research from google here is what i found
http://www.carcoversdirect.com/produ...004/350Z//2/4/
two year warranty sounds not bad, but i will call them and ask. And i will get the bigger size than what they recommend, in case it doesn't fit right or you might use it for diff car in the future.
http://www.carcoversdirect.com/produ...004/350Z//2/4/
two year warranty sounds not bad, but i will call them and ask. And i will get the bigger size than what they recommend, in case it doesn't fit right or you might use it for diff car in the future.
11-12-2008, 06:23 AM
#17
As far as covers go with Covercraft.
Great prices on the Covercraft 350Z patterns here.
Contact info Jessica@coversdirect.com or 1-866-626-8377 ask for Jessica Maria. She is very helpful & knowledgable about the different cover types.
Example Prices for the Nismo 350Z:
Noah C17104NH $200 shipped!
Evolution C17104GK $173 shipped
Weathershield HP Gray C17104PG $279 shipped
Great prices on the Covercraft 350Z patterns here.
Contact info Jessica@coversdirect.com or 1-866-626-8377 ask for Jessica Maria. She is very helpful & knowledgable about the different cover types.
Example Prices for the Nismo 350Z:
Noah C17104NH $200 shipped!
Evolution C17104GK $173 shipped
Weathershield HP Gray C17104PG $279 shipped
11-12-2008, 09:29 AM
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As far as covers go with Covercraft.
Great prices on the Covercraft 350Z patterns here.
Contact info Jessica@coversdirect.com or 1-866-626-8377 ask for Jessica Maria. She is very helpful & knowledgable about the different cover types.
Example Prices for the Nismo 350Z:
Noah C17104NH $200 shipped!
Evolution C17104GK $173 shipped
Weathershield HP Gray C17104PG $279 shipped
Great prices on the Covercraft 350Z patterns here.
Contact info Jessica@coversdirect.com or 1-866-626-8377 ask for Jessica Maria. She is very helpful & knowledgable about the different cover types.
Example Prices for the Nismo 350Z:
Noah C17104NH $200 shipped!
Evolution C17104GK $173 shipped
Weathershield HP Gray C17104PG $279 shipped
11-12-2008, 11:28 AM
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actually there is nothing wrong with starting the car every now and then. even at idle the car does get to operating temp just fine if u let it sit for a while. i don't know where people get the idea of having to drive the car for such a long period of time before it even reaches the normal operating temp. it is a good idea to change you're oil before storing but it's an even better idea to change it after storage.