350Z clutch lets out TOO High for me!!
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From: Mt Kisco NY
350Z clutch lets out TOO High for me!!
Hiya guys:
I've been driving Nissan 280-->300 manual trannies (and nothing else) since 1986. After I traded my 300z93TT away I got a 350Z enthusiast coupe '05 just ast week. The clutch is bothering me... a lot! I actually stalled out at after a full stop uphill today: major shame! If I don't rev high rpms it is risky catching 1st gear.
I'm no mechanic, but it seems like the pedal must be let up quite high-up before the clutch releases and there's engagement of gear. My thigh and hip (knee?) don't seem to have the same degree of fine control over small increments of depression when they're all flexed up... not like when they're more extended. I pride myself on smooth shifting -or have done until this week!
Is there a way to have the clutch pedal adjusted so the critical zone of transition is closer to the floor? (Sorry abt my terminology here!)
I've been driving Nissan 280-->300 manual trannies (and nothing else) since 1986. After I traded my 300z93TT away I got a 350Z enthusiast coupe '05 just ast week. The clutch is bothering me... a lot! I actually stalled out at after a full stop uphill today: major shame! If I don't rev high rpms it is risky catching 1st gear.
I'm no mechanic, but it seems like the pedal must be let up quite high-up before the clutch releases and there's engagement of gear. My thigh and hip (knee?) don't seem to have the same degree of fine control over small increments of depression when they're all flexed up... not like when they're more extended. I pride myself on smooth shifting -or have done until this week!
Is there a way to have the clutch pedal adjusted so the critical zone of transition is closer to the floor? (Sorry abt my terminology here!)
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From: UCLA
I learned to drive stick on a 1982 280zx! I must agree when I first got the G35coupe, I had to almost "re-learn", and then when I got the 350z, it wasn't even the same as the G35coupe... You'll get used to it.
Driving stick on my 350 compared my my M3 are two completely different ballgames.
My father has been driving stick for 30 years and I let him take my Z out once for a spin and he almost stalled and was jerking all over the place and grinding gears. He hated it, haha.
My father has been driving stick for 30 years and I let him take my Z out once for a spin and he almost stalled and was jerking all over the place and grinding gears. He hated it, haha.
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From: Chicago, Il
Originally posted by Srivero297
Driving stick on my 350 compared my my M3 are two completely different ballgames.
My father has been driving stick for 30 years and I let him take my Z out once for a spin and he almost stalled and was jerking all over the place and grinding gears. He hated it, haha.
Driving stick on my 350 compared my my M3 are two completely different ballgames.
My father has been driving stick for 30 years and I let him take my Z out once for a spin and he almost stalled and was jerking all over the place and grinding gears. He hated it, haha.
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From: Los Angeles, CA
The higher release point is the "fix" Nissan made from the earlier '03's that were having grinding problems. I just had the tranny and clutch assembly swapped in my '03 with the newest version and I am suffering the same problem you are describing. My shifting has suffered and I am forced to "re-learn". It's not bad but different. I preferred the lower shift point that the '03's originally had.
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Give it a few weeks. I just had my '03 tranny replacesd about 3 weeks ago, and had the exact complaint you have.
I even scheduled an appt to get the clutch fixed. After about 2 weeks, the pedal seems to have "lowered" the engagement point, and its very livable now, and I didn't have to take the car in.
Give it some time to see if it settles in, and then go in for the adjustment if its still not comfortable for you.
I even scheduled an appt to get the clutch fixed. After about 2 weeks, the pedal seems to have "lowered" the engagement point, and its very livable now, and I didn't have to take the car in.
Give it some time to see if it settles in, and then go in for the adjustment if its still not comfortable for you.
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From: Mt Kisco NY
"Our clutches are adjustable. If your not comfortable doing it yourself.. you can take it to the dealer.. mine adjusted my clutch for free.. "-mdracer
"Give it some time to see if it settles in, and then go in for the adjustment if its still not comfortable for you. ..had the exact complaint you have.... After about 2 weeks, the pedal seems to have "lowered" the engagement point, and its very livable now, and I didn't have to take the car in....." -Alang
Well I must confess that I didn't expect good news on this complaint. Moreover, I must confess that I didn't even expect a prompt outpouring of support and sympathetic attitude from the forum: and lookit, I have gotten *both* these unexpected & valuable gifts from you guys: and I'm just a stranger to you, too!
That's a helluva nice reception to a first-time poster. One welcome I reckon I'll not be forgetting so soon, neither!
A friend said to me today he believed the clutch on a 350 is hydraulic and ought to be adjustable. I didn't know that.
I am so very relieved: so very relieved and it goes beyond the story I told here.
Sure I'll take your kindly advice to see if she settles this next month, & if no I'll not be discouraged -thanks agn to you guys.
So, I'll hang around here some, I guess.
Thanks for your fine welcome, thank you very much indeed.
Dean
"Give it some time to see if it settles in, and then go in for the adjustment if its still not comfortable for you. ..had the exact complaint you have.... After about 2 weeks, the pedal seems to have "lowered" the engagement point, and its very livable now, and I didn't have to take the car in....." -Alang
Well I must confess that I didn't expect good news on this complaint. Moreover, I must confess that I didn't even expect a prompt outpouring of support and sympathetic attitude from the forum: and lookit, I have gotten *both* these unexpected & valuable gifts from you guys: and I'm just a stranger to you, too!
That's a helluva nice reception to a first-time poster. One welcome I reckon I'll not be forgetting so soon, neither!
A friend said to me today he believed the clutch on a 350 is hydraulic and ought to be adjustable. I didn't know that.
I am so very relieved: so very relieved and it goes beyond the story I told here.
Sure I'll take your kindly advice to see if she settles this next month, & if no I'll not be discouraged -thanks agn to you guys.
So, I'll hang around here some, I guess.
Thanks for your fine welcome, thank you very much indeed.
Dean
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Houston
looky what I have saved....
I originally posted this in the NICO forum, but I figured I'd get more views here:
You can easily adjust the clutch of a G35 sport coupe. I've done it twice on my cousin's black on black G.
I've done it to my WRX as well, as it came from the factory with overly high clutch travel and engagement.
If you look underneath the footwell, you'll see that the clutch is attached to a metal fork, held in place with a rod with a hole drilled in it and a cotter pin (looks like a bobby pin). Take out the pin with a set of pliers, then remove the rod.
This is the hardest part: you need to get the metal fork out of the confines of the clutch pedal. The method that worked best for me is to pull up on the clutch pedal while simultaneously pushing down on the clutch fork, then moving the fork to the side of the clutch pedal. This is the most aggrevating and time consuming part of the whole process. Don't be surprised if this part makes you curse and spew expletives about the engineers that designed this part.
After that part is done (whew), use a 10mm wrench to loosen the nut behind the fork.
To adjust engagement and travel:
turn fork CLOCKWISE ---> for lower engagement and shorter travel
turn fork COUNTERCLOCKWISE--> for higher engagement and longer travel
I had to adjust a total of 4 whole clockwise turns for my cousin's car. (I suggest trying 2 clockwise turns, then seeing how the car feels. If you want it lower, just repeat the process.)
After you adjust the metal fork, it's time to put everything back together. Tighten the nut behind the fork, then shimmy the fork back into place around the clutch pedal. Re-install the rod and the cotter pin, and take it for a spin.
You can easily adjust the clutch of a G35 sport coupe. I've done it twice on my cousin's black on black G.
I've done it to my WRX as well, as it came from the factory with overly high clutch travel and engagement.
If you look underneath the footwell, you'll see that the clutch is attached to a metal fork, held in place with a rod with a hole drilled in it and a cotter pin (looks like a bobby pin). Take out the pin with a set of pliers, then remove the rod.
This is the hardest part: you need to get the metal fork out of the confines of the clutch pedal. The method that worked best for me is to pull up on the clutch pedal while simultaneously pushing down on the clutch fork, then moving the fork to the side of the clutch pedal. This is the most aggrevating and time consuming part of the whole process. Don't be surprised if this part makes you curse and spew expletives about the engineers that designed this part.
After that part is done (whew), use a 10mm wrench to loosen the nut behind the fork.
To adjust engagement and travel:
turn fork CLOCKWISE ---> for lower engagement and shorter travel
turn fork COUNTERCLOCKWISE--> for higher engagement and longer travel
I had to adjust a total of 4 whole clockwise turns for my cousin's car. (I suggest trying 2 clockwise turns, then seeing how the car feels. If you want it lower, just repeat the process.)
After you adjust the metal fork, it's time to put everything back together. Tighten the nut behind the fork, then shimmy the fork back into place around the clutch pedal. Re-install the rod and the cotter pin, and take it for a spin.
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Scottsdale, AZ
Originally posted by Srivero297
Driving stick on my 350 compared my my M3 are two completely different ballgames.
My father has been driving stick for 30 years and I let him take my Z out once for a spin and he almost stalled and was jerking all over the place and grinding gears. He hated it, haha.
Driving stick on my 350 compared my my M3 are two completely different ballgames.
My father has been driving stick for 30 years and I let him take my Z out once for a spin and he almost stalled and was jerking all over the place and grinding gears. He hated it, haha.
Check out this link: clutch adjustment
Look for the pics on page 2 and the post directly below it. It makes the adjustment even easier. Rather than removing the fork and turning it, all you have to do is turn the actuator rod.
Look for the pics on page 2 and the post directly below it. It makes the adjustment even easier. Rather than removing the fork and turning it, all you have to do is turn the actuator rod.
Things really loosen up and break-in nicely over time. However, if the clutch engagement point is what bothers you then you will have to make an adjustment to get it right. My G35 felt like shifting a 4x4 before I made the adjustment - I much prefer the feel now as it engages much closer to the floor. FWIW, I noticed no such problem on my brothers 350Z. I don't know if Nissan/Infiniti set up the clutches differently or if it was just random chance.
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Houston, TX
I posted a DIY with pics and all in the other forum...
http://www.350zmotoring.com/forums/s...threadid=16734
Go to page #2...
Cheers.
http://www.350zmotoring.com/forums/s...threadid=16734
Go to page #2...
Cheers.
It's always been higher than I've been accustomed to, and going the clutch adjustment route has been met with a lot of skepticism by many on the automotive forums... I've still yet to hear from anyone that has performed it and had success after a long period of time afterwards (i.e. no clutch problems after a year or so, etc.).
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