I just wanted people to know that you can make gains staying N/A.

 

Glad you are happy with the gains!

Not to start a flame war (seriously... not)...

But I wouldn't expected you'd be able to gain more hp than that for $800. Are these engines pretty maxed out?

What would.... Headers, full exhaust, intake manifold, and a tune get you? (finishing off the bolt ons)

Then add cams, and port/polish heads? What could you get?

I'm just curious how much NA power you can really make.

 

On my car, you can make the same power N/A as a stock car with basic supercharger or pulley pretty easily.

And N/A is cheaper to make the power at first too (on the LS1). Heads/cam/headers/bolt ons can be done for around $3500 in parts and you can make 400-450 rwhp depending on the cam.

Are there not as many NA options for you guys?

 

Hmmm, this should put him at 300HP at the crank now? Good stuff...

 

True but you also must take into consideration the Camaro body roll when you take corners. These cars are made for a drag strip and 4 left turns when it comes to racing. These cars are basically drag cars and not full on sportscars. Yes, a larger displacement engine will produce more power easier due to scalability. Your TA can be a beast, I know.

 

Yes, VQ35DE on our Z comes out highly tuned from the factory already.
So adding breathing mods such as intake, exaust, header doesn't give
much hp compare to the others.. even if you complete the N/A mods following with ECU tunes, it is very hard to achieve 300whp on our motor.
It's just not worth spending much $$ for small amount of hp gain...
Plus you ended up spending more on N/A mods than going F/I...That's why
so many people regret what they have done and switch to F/I since it is
really what wakens up our motor unlike RX8.. (250whp from Twin Turbo! )

 

I disagree on spending more on N/A mods than F/I. It all starts with what you can afford and your goals. I have no plans of a 400whp car. I feel that "most" of the F/I guys don't give any credit/respect to those that choose to stay N/A. While I have no problem with F/I I just have no need for it.

 

Well the UTEC & Tuner wideband should be here Monday and hopefully be up at Mac after the 15th to get everything installed and tuned. Stay tune to see the results.

 

I used to love running in to guys like you with my '97 WS6. Car handled alot better than people thought. Granted, my suspension wasn't stock, but I only had about $1500 investaed in suspension parts. That's less than a set of good coilovers for the Z. I say all this as someone who sold his T/A and bought a Z.

 

not bad! let me know if you need anything else

 

Thanks! I'll be headed up to the dyno again soon for the UTEC tune. Next on the list is the Tanabe Touring exhaust & Y-pipe and researching how I want to do my suspention.

 

I'll be head to Mac Autosport on the 17th to get everything installed and dyno tune. I should be getting onto the dyno between 12 & 1pm.

 

Got the UTEC in and tuned. I didn't make the top end gains I wanted. But my AFR is much safer on both maps. On the 91 aggressive map we gained 5-10whp/wtq between 3000-6500rpm & 5wtq peak. We're thinking cause I'm running stock cat-back with the APS test pipes the car is to restricted and thats what is stopping the top end gains. Looks like next buy is a cat-back. As soon as I can I'll post the dyno runs.

 

I don't know, 249whp seems low. On the dyno run I did I got 247whp, and all I have is Headers and Exhaust. I figured the test pipes and spacer would do a bit more than that. My dyno pull was on a Mustang dyno in horrible dyno conditions, roughly 85 degrees and like 90%+ humidity, as you can see in my sig.

EDIT: where did you get it dynod? I just saw Colorado next to your name = air is thinner depending where you were and that could make a difference. Still seems low.

 

Looks at your WTQ compared to mine. Also are you're numbers SAE corrected? I'm dynoing on a DynoJet dyno which are the "closest" you can get. I think my numbers are right on target for my mods.

 

Yes I definately saw the WTQ, thats definately a big difference. But the WHP number is what stood out to me especally given the fact of the dyno I was on, with the weather surrounding, seem to be slightly underrated.

Originally I asked what elevation you were at when you got the dyno done? J/w because 5,000 ft makes a difference.

 

UTEC Tune info here: https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....11#post2896311

 

I've always heard it's safe to assume a 10%-15% penatly at 5000 feet... so that would mean a loss of about 20 hp... which is what he almost made up with his bolt ons, which makes sense that he's close to your pull on stock IMO...