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Check out my disappointing dyno results :(

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Old 03-12-2006, 07:06 AM
  #21  
koolzero
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Originally Posted by Speedracer
Was it a hub dyno or a wheel dyno? If a wheel dyno, did you use tires that were different? Even if the same tires, greater treadwear will lead to increased rolling resistance which will decrease you calculated power numbers.

What octane gasoline? Any less than 93 and you really aren't going to see the gains from these bolt-ons which are minimal to begin with.
The rims are larger than the first dyno first were 18" this last time they were 19". And believe it or not but you can't find 93 octane available in Kansas City. 91 is what I used. I asked the guy at the Dyno and he said he didn't know of any place to get 93.

I changed my rotors to stoptech 1 piece slotted and I'm not sure but I think they may actually be a little heavier than stock.

So do you think with the technosquare reflash I might get some improvements?
Old 03-12-2006, 07:09 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by A_16
MCRACING........the home of disappointing dynos


dont worry about it man, I honestly believe their dyno is screwy. When I had my spec-v i was somehow making 10hp less than my friends spec v, but I pulled on him like a bat out of hell

MCRACING = teh suxors

btw, i dynod 235whp stock, so be happy with 257
Any good places to dyno in KC? MC Racing is the cheapest place it was $60 with air fuel. I know there is a porsche place but they charge 80 bucks! Hey do you know of any places in KC that have 93 octane? It seems like it's not available around here. The guy at MC said he had heard that a station might start selling it but wasn't sure...
Old 03-12-2006, 07:13 AM
  #23  
SOLO-350Z
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Your problems here are:

Pop-Charger. If its a open element, you are actually losing power with this unit. Stillens is a sealed unit and proven to gain more power than most other intakes.

Nismo Exhaust isn't the best exhaust out either for the G/Z. If you want more power, go with a better exhaust like the Stillen/Borla.

The highflow cats and headers are most likely hurting your car. Too much free flowing exhaust will take away power. Especially if your car starts to run lean like most cars do with the headers and cats.

UR Pulley helps, but very little.

AAM spacer, wish I knew more about this product, but I know the Motordyne one is a proven piece.

Here is my dyno I just did this weekend on my 05 G35 6mt Sedan. Only Stillen Exhaust, Stillen CAI, and MREV kit below. 1-2 runs were 5th gear, 3rd one was in 4th. a/f on 2-3 the sniffer came out of the exhaust at the end.



Your A/F might be way off. did you measure it?
Old 03-12-2006, 07:17 AM
  #24  
koolzero
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Originally Posted by G35_TX
Your A/F might be way off. did you measure it?
Yeah I had them measure it and it didn't look anything like yours... The bottom section of your sheet is the A/F reading correct? In your opinion would any type of ecu change help?
Old 03-12-2006, 07:26 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by koolzero
Yeah I had them measure it and it didn't look anything like yours... The bottom section of your sheet is the A/F reading correct? In your opinion would any type of ecu change help?


If you were running way lean or rich this would cause a loss in power. A ecu would definitely help big time with your mods.

It's hard to read your graphs, but I think your a/f was running too lean. If you don't do a ecu, remove the cats, install the factory ones and leave the headers and I think you will be ok.
Old 03-12-2006, 07:27 AM
  #26  
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its been proven time and time and time and time and time again that it makes ZERO difference what intake you run on this car - they all net similar gains.

The cats and headers are not hurting the car either....again, been shown countless times to make power -There is no such thing as an engine that breathes "too well"

Spacers - again, pick your poison - ALL give within 1-2 hp of one another.

So what's the variable? Twofold

First, you are comparing dynos 3 years apart. Makes no difference if it's the same dyno - they are simply too far apart to be significant

Second - you've got alot of stuff and relying on the factory ecu - I would bet dollars to donuts a tune of some sort would get you where the car should be - ie, in the 260-270 whp range (on a Dynojet)

It's not about x vs y part on this car - it's about tuning it well to work well with each other

Last edited by Z1 Performance; 03-12-2006 at 07:31 AM.
Old 03-12-2006, 07:30 AM
  #27  
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Really? I have data saying otherwise. Including SportZ Magazine tests.

Cats/Headers do hurt the car especially in the a/f mixture. This has been proven many many times. Not enough back pressure will cause a loss in power in the low-midrange. You will gain upper power but if your running lean upper power will also be cut.

Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
its been proven time and time and time and time and time again that it makes ZERO difference what intake you run on this car - they all net similar gains

the cats and headers are not hurting the car either....again, been shown countless times to make power - there is no such thing as an engine that breathes "too well"

Spacers - again, pick your poison - ALL give within 1-2 hp of one another

So what's the variable? Twofold

First, you are comparing dynos 3 years apart. Makes no difference if it's the same dyno - they are simply too far apart to be significant

Second - you've got alot of stuff and relying on the factory ecu - I would bet dollars to donuts a tune of some sort would get you where the car should be - ie, in the 260-270 whp range (on a Dynojet)
Old 03-12-2006, 07:51 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by G35_TX
Really? I have data saying otherwise. Including SportZ Magazine tests.

Cats/Headers do hurt the car especially in the a/f mixture. This has been proven many many times. Not enough back pressure will cause a loss in power in the low-midrange. You will gain upper power but if your running lean upper power will also be cut.
the cats and headers are not the culprit...the TUNING, or here, the lack thereof, is. Modding is not a zero sum game - you dont bolt on a bunch of parts and make instant magic power. The bolting on is 50% of the equation - tuning for them is the other 50%.

Your AFR scale shows everything that's wrong and showsd what I've said to be the case - the car is running in and around the 14's in AFR - while it is consistent through the rev range, these cars (at least the 03/04) are happiest in the high 12's to low 13's most every time.

Last edited by Z1 Performance; 03-12-2006 at 07:57 AM.
Old 03-12-2006, 09:22 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by G35_TX
Really? I have data saying otherwise. Including SportZ Magazine tests.

Cats/Headers do hurt the car especially in the a/f mixture. This has been proven many many times. Not enough back pressure will cause a loss in power in the low-midrange. You will gain upper power but if your running lean upper power will also be cut.
hfcast shouldn't cause him too run *too* lean. leaner than stock, yes, but not too lean. that's test pipes job.
Old 03-12-2006, 09:23 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
the cats and headers are not the culprit...the TUNING, or here, the lack thereof, is. Modding is not a zero sum game - you dont bolt on a bunch of parts and make instant magic power. The bolting on is 50% of the equation - tuning for them is the other 50%.

Your AFR scale shows everything that's wrong and showsd what I've said to be the case - the car is running in and around the 14's in AFR - while it is consistent through the rev range, these cars (at least the 03/04) are happiest in the high 12's to low 13's most every time.
Maybe it's just me, but have you noticed how certain years seem to lean out the A/F worse than others? Like some seem to be able to get away with plenum+intake+headers+cats+exhaust, while other run 15-16 A/F right off the bat with just, say, intake+exhaust? I've always wonderd if maybe the ECU reacts differently in different years? kinda like how test pipes won't through a SES in an 03?
Old 03-12-2006, 09:45 AM
  #31  
A_16
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Lees Summit in MO is the only place i know to sell 93......and im not driving way over there for gas, just get some 92 from BP, they are all over, ****ty gas mileage but the car goes a lot better with in there
Old 03-12-2006, 12:30 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by A_16
Lees Summit in MO is the only place i know to sell 93......and im not driving way over there for gas, just get some 92 from BP, they are all over, ****ty gas mileage but the car goes a lot better with in there
I go to a zipz by my house and it only sells 91 but when I'm near a BP I'll get 92. Should have gotten some before I did my dyno...

Are you a KC Z Club member?

Last edited by koolzero; 03-12-2006 at 12:33 PM.
Old 03-12-2006, 01:47 PM
  #33  
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I AM, i post on that board under 03PPW
Old 03-12-2006, 02:43 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
the cats and headers are not the culprit...the TUNING, or here, the lack thereof, is. Modding is not a zero sum game - you dont bolt on a bunch of parts and make instant magic power. The bolting on is 50% of the equation - tuning for them is the other 50%.

Your AFR scale shows everything that's wrong and showsd what I've said to be the case - the car is running in and around the 14's in AFR - while it is consistent through the rev range, these cars (at least the 03/04) are happiest in the high 12's to low 13's most every time.
The Cats and Header are the culprit!!!! But with Tuning you can fix it. If you don't want a ECU to fix it remove the cats.
Old 03-12-2006, 04:34 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by A_16
I AM, i post on that board under 03PPW
Are you going to Branson Z Fest this year? I'm going!
Old 03-12-2006, 04:37 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by G35_TX
The Cats and Header are the culprit!!!! But with Tuning you can fix it. If you don't want a ECU to fix it remove the cats.
Any recommendations on an ecu upgrade?
Old 03-12-2006, 05:01 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by koolzero
Any recommendations on an ecu upgrade?
I know Technosquare makes great ones. Haven't heard much about the other ones.
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