Hiya all. Great site! Long time lurker here... Couple of questions for you guys:

Around this time next year I'll be getting my Z. Almost got one a couple of weeks ago, but ended up trading the 05 Altima SER for a 06 Maxima. Don't ask me how that happend, suffice to say the wife was involved...meh. (Just for giggles, it was a 05 35th Ann Z for 32k. )
I've grown up around cars (domestic) all my life, grew up on a farm, and am currently a jet engine mech in the USAF. I know my way around a wrench, but damn skippy I don't know how to tune (fuel injected) worth a *%@&. Changing powervalves on a Holley is different than plugging in and mapping FI, as we all know. Tuning FI is intimidating for me, and considering the drawbacks from a bad tune, there ya go. Anywho...
Suspension and drivetrain is my first priority, followed closely by a Vortech. The way I see it, why have all that power if you can't get it to the ground? My plan is LSD, flywheel, clutch, front and rear sways, springs (coilovers maybe).

1. Springs that lower around 1" can get you close to spec alignment, and if you can't live with 'close', stop whining and get a camber kit, right? Same for coilovers, correct?
2. A FD of 3.9 limits you to around 145 or so, right? (Read up on this in an active thread, and makes sense to me.) While I'm on the subject, is the Z diff the same as a Ford 9-inch pumpkin? As in, can I swap the FD with relative ease at the track if need be, or is it more involved?
3. F & R sways are pretty self-explanatory to me, start at the 'med' setting and go from there? I'm sure springs or coilovers have an affect on this, correct?
4. The flywheel and clutch...expect quicker revs with a lighter flywheel, and chatter from your clutch (seems like the chatter varies from vendor to vendor...JWT/NISMO/BOBS HOUSE OF CLUTCHES)...as a previous owner of a 396 67 'Velle with a Muncie 4-speed, a noisy, heavy clutch doesn't bother me...lol.
5. Does the Z have aftermarket subframe connectors, or is the frame stiff enough not to bother? I'm assuming they aren't available/needed, since I've never read anything about 'em on any Z forum.
6. As mentioned, I will end up FI w/Vortech. I know that to feel warm and fuzzy with ANY FI (TT/ST, whatever) I should bulletproof the bottom end of the motor, and I may eventually do that, if I can find a local machine shop that doesn't suck. What N/A engine mods can I do that I won't have to UN-DO when I go FI? From what I've read, I can go the plenum/spacer route, and not much else. Basically, I want to maximize my potential for HP and TQ before the FI without having to rip anything off before I slap the FI on. What (and this is what I'm confused on) engine management can I use N/A that will carry over when I go the FI route?

Thanks for your patience reading this, and I hope I don't come off as too much of a noob. This will be my first import that I will modify. As you can infer from my post, I want to end up with a good all-around car. Being an old (in a matter of speaking, I'm 33 Monday) gearhead, I'm used to "V-8" mentality. As in, cam+intake manifold+headers+good exhaust=50-75 HP, depending on the size of the engine. (Funny story, it took me forever to adjust to the whole "intake" thing...for me, intake has always been the manifold, not tube+filter.)
I'd like to thank you guys for such a great forum. And if I come off too noobish, sorry. I just believe in doing my research before any purchase, and you guys are the experts!

Since I'm stationed in NC, I plan on Sharif doing the tuning. He sounds like a helluva guy, and knows his stuff.

And I sure as hell miss being stationed at Edwards in CA. Willow Springs 10 miles out the front gate. SIGH

Thanks again!

 

If you are near Shariff you have nothing to worry about. He is a standup guy. You will be in good hands with him and should have nothing to worry about. Good luck on the proyect!

 

Thanks! He's about 3 or so hours away in Charlotte. It's either there or AA up in Maryland, and that's too much of a drive, plus Shariff has a great rep on this (and other) board. So there ya go.

 

Wow, good work with the research! I'm planning on going FI with a SC eventually as well so I'm going to keep tabs on this. Welcome to the club (in the future) and post pics when everything is said and done!

 

Thanks! There's an old saying "there's no consumer like an informed consumer". How happy are you with your slotted rotors + Hawk pads + SS lines? I'm planning on a Z Enthusiast (CC and wheel stereo controls FTW), so if I can nickel and dime my way to happy stoppage, that'll work for me. I hope to eventually migrate my way to Willwood front and rears, so we'll see.

One other thing while I'm at it, the Enthusiast (forgive the spelling, I'm 8 into a case of beer) seems to be the best bang for the buck?

 

Hahahahaha! I"m 7 into a case of beer, . I actually bought my brake set up from a Z owner who had bought all of the parts and then sold the car on e-bay. The rotors are just custom made slotted rotors (about $150 for all 4 on e-bay). The pads and lines I got from the guy who was selling his car and I'm extremely happy with them. Some better calipers would be great, but they really do pretty well. And for about $350 all said and done (installed them myself and then painted them to avoid rust) I'm extremely happy. The only bad thing is that they need to really be heated up before they stop but that works out for me because my main goal is to track this car.

 

I hear ya with the whole trackage thing. I've always understood that you need as much "whoa as go" when tracking a car. Happy to hear you're confident with your setup, gives me a idea where to go. Good luck when you run it closed-course!

 

Many folks here (including myself) use the Eibach pro-kit springs. They offer a .8" drop in the front and 1.2" in the rear. Their progressive rate is very comfortable without being too hard or soft. My car aligned to spec with these springs (I am at the limit of camber adj. in the rear, but I'm in spec.) I think the general rule is 1 inch you're probably ok, any more than that, you should prepare to buy a camber kit. Same for coilovers.

Can't help too much here, but can tell you that a stock manual drivetrain will go significantly faster than 145 and the car is limited to 156 (though I've seen multiple films near 160 with no modification. As for swapping the FD at the track, not sure.

Yep to the first question. As for springs or coilovers affecting sway-bar operation, all these components create an inter-dependent system. I wouldn't even begin to contemplate choosing springs or coils based on their effect on sways or vice-versa though. Adjustable sways are probably effective enough to be able to "tune out" effects of the other suspension components.

Yep, some of the lightweight setups I've seen rev hella fast, but they do chatter, and they can be difficult for street driving. If noise doesn't bother you, it's a non-issue.

The frame is pretty stiff. I know there are a few companies that have been working on or planning to work on producing a sub-frame connector setup, but personally, I'd put this last on my list and give it time to see what reaches the market.

Any cold-air or short-ram intake will come off the car when you go F/I, so you'll want to start "aft" of these. You can do a plenum or plenum spacer on the intake side. As for exhaust, the free-er the better. You could also do headers.

Spend some time in the "Forced Induction" section regarding EMS options. I know some folks here have gone with the UTEC on an N/A car, and a few are using the Emanage Ultimate. The UTEC is essentially a stand-alone, while the EU is a piggyback.

With CP Racing and Sharif so close by, you're in good hands for tuning and engine build. You needn't look any further, IMO.

Good luck with your car, when you get it. One thing to remember is that a year from now, the product line-ups may well be different than what we currently have, so keep up on your research until the time comes.

Kelly

 

First, thanks for all the replies. Yeppurs, I realize that this industry is much like the computer industry (a hobby of mine) insofar as tech changes constantly. The only good thing is usually we, as consumers, benefit, as long as we stay on our toes!