The Top 100 Common Questions
 

The purpose of this thread is to give all newbies a common starting point for the really basic stuff.

All we want is questions and answers. No long drawn out dissertations please. It has to be short and to the point or the newbies won't read it.

For example:

Q. What's the best intake to buy?
A. There is no "best" intake. They all offer features and advantages and all have disadvantages. Some have small proven gains (+5hp), others have questionable gains (+20). Sorry but you have to do the research yourself and decide what meets your budget & expectations. Some of the more popular ones are the Jim Wolf Tech. PopCharger; NISMO CAI, Injen CAI, AEM CAI, K&N Typhoon CAI. A cheap alternative is a high flow air filter like the K&N filter.


DO NOT ASK QUESTIONS IN THIS THREAD!!!! If you have a question about something, start a thread in the appropriate forum to ask your question. This thread is for Q & A only! In other words, you must answer your own question for the benefit of all other members.

Unanswered questions, discussions or comments that don't add value to previous posts, will be deleted.

SUBJECT LINES!!!!!! Make sure you use an informative subject line when you start a thread. Don't just put Help! or Question? in the subject line. Put something that makes sense and will invite a knowledgable member into the thread to provide an answer. For example: Need help with tires. or Have question about my OEM stereo.


Let's get this started off with one of the most important "questions":

Q: Why... What... Where... ?????
A: BEFORE you ask a question about your Z, look in your owners manual FIRST. The vast majority of the constantly repeated questions can be answered by taking the time and effort to read your owners manual.

You'll save yourself the embarrassment of being called out for asking "noob" questions and the eventual flaming that follows. Plus, you'll be surprised at all the cool features that you'll discover about your new car.

Don't have a manual? CLICK HERE FOR FREE DOWNLOADS Actually, the electronic copy is better than the paper ones because you can search them.

Are your questions related to our Marketplace? CLICK HERE FOR MARKETPLACE FAQS

Thanks and enjoy!

Q. I can't get my new rims to fit on the front. There's a little bolt there! What can I do??
A. That little bolt is there so your tire guys don't put your stock rear rims on the front by mistake. To install aftermarket rims, just get a 10mm wrench & unbolt it. Problem fixed!

CLICK FOR DETAILS

Q. Can I wax my new car?
A. Yes. The paint is already oven cured at the factory plus it took a month or two from the time it was built until it arrived at the dealer. Wax on!

Q:What type of gas may I fuel up with?

A:The owner manual states that you should use premium gas. However, if your in a remote place without any premium, you may use regular 87 oct... Prolonged usage of regular gas may cause detonation and premature wear.
Note:Any aviation fuel will cause damage in a rather short period. Dont even think about it, unless you like BIG repair bills.

Q. What air pressure should I put in my tires?
A. The recommended pressure is printed on a sticker on the driver's side door jamb as well as "Technical and consumer information" section of your Owners Manual. That pressure is the cold inflation pressure, checked when the tires are cold or not driven on for at least two hours.

1. How do I open the hatch without using the remote?
A. There's a button right above the rear licence plate. Feel for it, and press it to open the hatch. The door locks have to be unlocked first though.

2. How do I open the windows with a key?
A. Insert key into door, turn left and keep it there for 2 seconds.

3. Which turbo is better?
A. All have their ups and downs. Depending on what your goals are. Daily driving or race only? Half and half? Built motor / stock motor? It would be best to search the FI section more specifically before you decide.

4. Should I go turbo or supercharger?
A. Depends on what you are looking for. Refer to previous answer.

5. what exhaust sounds/looks/performs the best?
A. What do you consider "best"? Every car is different. It's like your fingerprints. Even though they all look the same, has the same engines, etc, they all have minor differences. Therefore no one can say what is "best" overall. Look at the sticky thread in the "Intakes/Exhausts" forum and listen to sound clips as well as check out some pictures to help you decide.

6. What's VDC/TCS?
A. VDC (Vehicle Dynamic Control) and TCS (Traction Control System) are both used to ASSIST in the prevention of loss of control in your car. They would cut throttle appropriately to ASSIST to prevent you from spinning out or losing control. Key word is ASSIST. It won't PREVENT it. It will only ASSIST in preventing minor slippage. It can be shut off by the button to the left of the steering wheel, on the lower part of the dash panel. Keep in mind that the base model 350Z does not come with either options.

7. new to 6mt...when should I shift up/down?
A. It all depends on yourself and what you are used to. Get used to driving first, and shift around 2500 - 3000rpms until you get used to it. Then explore.

Q: MT VS AT?

A: It all depends on your personal preffrences! Some like to not worry about shifting in city traffic, and others dont mind. The fact of the matter is that the difference between AT/MT ''speed wise'' is negligable.
The old argument of being able to better control a MT over an AT on the street/track etc... is well wrong. Once a driver understands basic concepts such as throttle control, anything that one does in a MT can be done in an AT.
Long story short, dont let anyone tell you what is best, instead go out there try both, and THEN make your OWN decision.

Q: What is a plenum?
A: On the 350z / G35, your plenum is the aluminum intake manifold that sits right in the upper middle of your engine bay. To locate it, find the air intake box, follow the tube to the throttle body, and you will see that the plenum is connected to the throttle body. The plenum consists of both the "upper plenum" which you can see plainly in your engine bay, and a "lower plenum" which is not visible in your engine bay. You cannot see it because your lower plenum sits beneath the "upper plenum". If you remove your upper plenum to install a spacer for example, you will see the "lower plenum," also known as a "lower collector". The lower plenum consists of 6 tubes or "runners" that guide the air from your plenum into each cylinder. They may not look that fancy, but in fact, the precise length of these tubes has a significant impact on horsepower and torque.



Q: What is a plenum spacer?
A: Several companies make a "spacer" which rests between your lower plenum and upper plenum, to increase plenum volume and reduce restriction from within the plenum. For example, Motordyne engineering's 5/16" spacer, or AAM's angled spacer. Increasing plenum volume typically has the effect of increasing horsepower. However, if you increase the volume too much, you will start to lose throttle response. Plenum design is a crucial aspect of engine design -- companies that make spacers are simply trying to get the most function out of the plenum.



Q: What is better, a plenum spacer, or a complete aftermarket plenum?
A: Some people swear by aftermarket plenums (i.e. crawford, kinetix), but for all intents and purposes, they accomplish the same exact thing as adding a spacer. So most people would tell you to choose whichever one is cheapest, which is usually the spacer.



Q: What is the difference between the REV-UP (300hp) and the NON-REVUP (287hp) Motor? Which one do I have?
A: Rev-up Motor has higher peak HP, lower peak torque, and a higher redline (7000RPM)
Non-rev-up Motor has lower peak HP, higher peak torque, and a lower redline (6600RPM)

Rev-Up Motor has variable Intake and Exhaust timing.
Non-Revup Motor ONLY has variable Intake timing.

You can tell which one you have by looking at your redline on your tachometer.



Q: What is a MREV, and MREV2? Which one do I need for my rev-up (300hp) or non-rev-up 287hp motor?

For 2003 - 2006 350Z's / G35's, Nissan has designed two different types of lower collector:

REV-UP lower collector from the 300hp motor = shorter runners which are tuned for lower peak torque, but higher peak horsepower.
NON-REV-UP lower collector from the 287hp motor = longer runners which are tuned for higher peak torque, but lower peak horsepower.

MREV = same exact thing as the non-rev-up lower collector, but Motordyne Enginering has given it a name.
MREV2 = Using the MREV as a starting material, this is a CUSTOM lower plenum that is sold by Motordyne Engineering. It has been precisely machined to remove aluminum from critical locations on the MREV. In other words, it is like a much improved version of the MREV which reduces restriction and improves HP / TQ.

If you have a non-revup motor (6600RPM redline), your best bang for your buck is to get the 5/16" spacer. The 5/16" spacer makes the most HP for the money. OR, you may choose to get the MREV2. By replacing your stock lower collector (MREV) with this better flowing version, you will make better "area under the curve" on the dyno in terms of HP gain. My opinion is that you should choose one or the other -- either MREV2 OR 5/16" spacer. If you get both, the HP gain will exhibit "diminishing returns", meaning you will spend a lot more money to make not much extra HP. So, usually the recommended option for the non-revup guys is to get the 5/16" spacer.

If you are a rev-up owner (7000RPM redline), you will basically only benefit from getting BOTH a 5/16" spacer and the MREV2. If you get the MREV2 only, your mid-range torque will increase but your maximum HP will drop off severely. If you only get the 5/16" spacer, you will not see a benefit. Several dynos have proven that for the rev-up motor, you basically need both the spacer and the MREV2, which will make a lot of midrange torque, without sacrificing too much peak HP.



For more information, search through the Intake Exhaust forum and read several old threads on the subject matter.



Q: What is a reflash?
A: Companies such as Technosquare or AAM (Altered Atmosphere) will reprogram your ECU (engine control unit) to better adapt to mods such as intake, plenum spacer, exhaust, etc. Additionally, a reflash (such as Technosquare) can increase the rev limiter to allow for a higher redline. The stock ECU is well known for, well, sucking. It does not adapt well to mods or optimize air/fuel ratio to give the most power. Some mods can actually lose power with the stock ECU if you do not have the right tune. A reflash will basically help your stock ECU make the right adjustments to make the most power with your mods.



Q: I got an intake, exhaust, headers, plenum spacer, and/or other mods. Do I need a reflash / tune?

A: Most people *will* benefit from either a reflash or tuning, even if you are lightly modded. THE BEST OPTION IS TO FINISH ALL OF YOUR BOLT-ON MODS BEFORE GETTING TUNED!!

The best way to get a tune is to purchase an engine management system and take it to a reputable tuner. There are several options. The most popular option is the TurboXS UTEC. The UTEC seems to have the most powerful combination of features for the money. The Greddy Emanage Ultimate, for example, is another good option for air/fuel tuning, but it does not have good over timing. Your best bang for your buck when tuning is usually going to be a reflash, but reflashes do not have nearly the customizability as the UTEC.


Q: I want to know which exhaust sounds the best. Does anyone have sound clips of Stillen, Borla, HKS, Injen... etc?
A: First off, sound clips almost never do an exhaust justice. Most people lack good recording equipment, some people even record sound clips using their cell phone. Do not trust any sound clips you hear online. The BEST way to figure out which exhaust sounds the "BEST" is to hear it in person. Go to a local meet and ask nicely for people to drive you around with the windows down. Some people will rev the engine while parked to give you the idea. That is all well and good, but note that exhaust systems sound a little different while UNDER LOAD (driving around).

Q: Okay, but which exhaust system is the LOUDEST, MEANEST sounding exhaust?
A: RSR, Topspeed, or any clones of these systems.

Q: What wheel sizes and offsets do I need?
A: Generally speaking, there are a LOT of different combinations that people are running on their Z or G.

Let's get the basics out of the way first: You need a lug pattern of 5x114.3, width between 8 and 11 inches, and diameter of 17", 18", 19", or 20".

Here are some of the more popular wheel and tire sizes (for good reason) that people put on their Z's. There is no "RIGHT" answer but there is a limit to how big or small you can go.

18" combination:
Front 18" x 8.5" , Offset +15 to +25, Tires 245/40/18
Rear 18" x 9.5" , Offset +15 to +25, Tires 275/40/18
(lower offset such as +10 in rear is possible but may require rolling)

Front 18" x 9.5" , Offset +25 to +30, Tires 255/40/18
Rear 18" x 10.5" , Offset +28 to +35, Tires 285/40/18 or 295/35/18
(lower offset such as +23 in the rear is possible but may require rolling)

19" combination:
Front 19" x 8.5" , Offset +15 to +25, Tires 245/35/19
Rear 19" x 9.5" , Offset +15 to +25, Tires 275/35/19
(lower offset such as +10 in rear is possible but may require rolling)

Front 19" x 9.5" , Offset +25 to +30, Tires 255/35/19 or 265/35/19
Rear 19" x 10.5" , Offset +23 to +32, Tires 285/35/19 or 295/35/19
(lower offset such as +23 or wider tires in the rear is possible but may require rolling)

From this, you get the idea of what is required to go with smaller wheels like 17's, (typically lighter, faster acceleration), or bigger wheels like 20's (bigger, heavier, usually makes you feel slower).

Get to know how to use the following tools and you will be able to figure out for yourself the correct offsets and tire sizes you need:
Tire size calculator (click)
Wheel Offset Calculator

Certain combinations of LOW OFFSET and/or WIDE WHEELS will require what is known as "fender rolling" or "fender cutting".

If you are not familiar with the term "fender rolling", here is a quick but useful lesson you can learn in a couple of minutes: Go outside to wherever your Z is parked. Run your fingers along the inside edge of a REAR fender just above your tires. You will feel a sharp edge and a flap of metal sticking inward towards the car. Now, go up to the FRONT fender, and feel the inside of the fender again. You should notice that the flap of metal has been "rolled" upwards on the front fenders. This is exactly what fender rolling is all about. The rear fenders will need to be rolled to make room for wide wheels or low offsets, or else your tires may rub on the metal when you take hard corners or hit bumps. Any experienced wheel/tire shop should know how to roll a fender. If you go to a shop that does not seem like they know what they're doing, get out of there.

Q: What are some advantages and disadvantages of different intakes? Should I go for a cold air intake (CAI), a JWT popcharger, or any other suggestions?

A:
03-05 Stock intake:

pro: sucks COLD air from outside your engine bay, has low pressure losses, OEM paper filter is very good making this the cleanest intake for your engine

con: once you start flowing a lot more air in general, stock intake box may start to be restrictive.



2006+ Stock intake:

pro: same as above, except with an improved velocity stack / venturi ring. This accelerates air coming into the plenum, which is a more efficient design. Arguably the best intake available for the 350Z in my humble opinion.

con: same as above, but still one of the best out there



JWT popcharger:

pro: can suck higher volume of air compared to stock due to high performance filter. Improved velocity stack (venturi ring) compared even to 06+ stock intake. The venturi ring accelerates air coming into your plenum for added power.

con: sucks hot air from engine bay and heat shield does not really help all that much in preventing it from sucking hot air. People have reported a problem stalling when travelling at high speeds and putting the car in neutral with this intake.


STILLEN Intake:

pro: similar design to the JWT popcharger. Includes a venturi ring, and a very functional cold-air-box to make this one of the best intake available. Does not suffer from the same hot air sucking as the JWT popcharger.

con: the price is significantly higher than the JWT intake, but this is the only Con I can think of.



Long tube CAI such as Nismo, Injen:

pro: sucks colder air, (note...so does stock)

con: More pressure losses due to a longer tube. This is a fact of life folks. More bends and longer tube = more pressure losses. In fact, long tube CAI's have even shown horsepower LOSSES on a dyno.



K&N typhoon (short tube like stock intake / JWT popcharger, but includes a front-mounted scoop):

pro: cone-type filter should suck a higher volume of air compared to stock. attempts to offset JWT popcharger's hot-air syndrome by incorporating a cold air scoop.

con: hard to prove that the scoop is actually effective



HKS Racing Suction

pro: Shorter tube like stock, higher flowing filter

con: People have stated that the install is difficult, price is rather high for what seems like a minimal improvement over JWT popcharger

Q: Has the tire feathering been fixed?

A: There is no definite answer. Tire feathering can occur on any vehicle with improper toe settings. It is more likely to occur on sports cars. Early 350z years (2003, 2004) had more cases of tire feathering, possibly due to bad alignment specs, slight changes in suspension. In general one should not expect the same long tire life as on normal cars, and one needs to keep an eye on tire wear and possibly re-align or rotate tires when signs of irregular wear can be observed. When lowering the vehicle a lot, one may need to purchase adjustable control arms to be able to bring alignment back within spec. This however is not needed or useful on the stock 350z suspension or the NISMO S Tune suspension.


Q: Can the tires on the 350z be rotated and if how?

A: It depends on your tire size and type. Obviously if you have staggered sizes, you can never rotate between front and back. But you can still rotate left to right. If the tires are directional, left right rotation obviously will require to take the tire of the wheel and mount it back on in reverse direction.
That way inside tread will be outside, which can help irregular tire wear.
If you have assymmetric tires (such as the PS2), than you can rotate left-right without having to take the tire off the wheel. It will not help inside/outside irregular wear, but may help feathering where the feathers have a direction, because after the left-right rotation the assymmetric tire (not directional!) will turn in the reverse direction.

Q: Whats the difference between models? Which one is right for me?

A:This question really depends on what you want to do with the car. If your building a track monster from the get-go, a Base or Enthusiast is probably the way to go. If your looking for a nice touring car that you don't have to do much too, the Touring or the 35th Anniversary Edition in 2005 might be best. Please note this guide only covers coupe options, not roadster.

Abbreviations

TCS - Traction Control System
VDC - Vehicle Dynamics Controller
VTC - Variable Timing Control
MT - Manual Transmission
AT - Automatic Transmission
VLSD - Viscous Limited-Slip Differential


Model Breakdown (2003-2004.5):


Base: 3.5L V6 with 287hp/274 ft-lbs of tq., 17" rims. Only available in 6-speed MT. No VLSD, cruise control.

Enthusiast: Added Cruise Control, HID headlights, Aluminum pedals, Auto-dimming rearview mirror, VLSD, and TCS. Available in either 6-speed MT or 5-speed AT.

Performance: Adds VDC , 18" rims (18"x8" all around). Only available with 6-speed MT.

Touring: Adds Leather seats w/ power adjust-ability, Bose sound system, and optional DVD Navigation. Available in either 6-speed MT or 5-speed AT.

Track: Adds 18" Rays Track Rims (18"x8" front, 18"x8.5" rear, approx. 18.3 lbs per rim), Brembo Big Brake Kit, underbody aero kit w/ rear hatch spoiler. Only available in 6-speed MT.

*Please note all automatic models Enthusiast up only had TCS, no VDC.

There were no major changes until the 2004.5 model, in which the suspension was changed slightly to help alleviate the "tire feathering" problem. I'm not sure the exact change, but there were some small changes in the suspension that seemed to help lessen the cases, though there were some still sporadically appearing.

The next major changes wouldn't come until 2005. Nissan introduced the "Rev-Up" 300hp/260tq variant of the VQ35. It was featured in the 2005 Track and 35th Anniversary models (6-speed MT only). Major changes included VTC on the exhaust cams, improved internals, higher redline, and modified lower plenum. Also, all models received a new, redesigned front suspension which appears to have helped to combat the problems with tire feathering.

The 35th Anniversary model that appeared in 2005 was a mesh of the Touring and Track model. It featured the same Brembo Brakes and 300hp motor of the Track model, but all the comfort amenities of the Touring such as leather, Bose sound system, and optional Navigation. It was available in 6-speed MT or 5-speed AT, though the AT received the 287hp/274tq engine and did not feature VDC, just TCS. The 35th Anniversary also feature unique 18" 5-spoke rims.

The Z received a small redesign on 2006 to both the car itself and to the model lineup. The car received a slight facelift with a subtly redesigned front bumper, new Bi-Xenon headlights, and LED tailights. Also, all 6-speed models except for the Track and Grand Touring were equipped with the 18" rims from the 2005 35th Anniversary (Enthusiast AT's get the 17" rims, Touring get the 2003-2005 18" Touring rims). Under the hood, all MT models recieved the 300hp/260tq Rev-Up motors. All AT models recieved the 287hp/274tq motors.

Inside, there were some spots of added aluminum trim, as well as new steering-wheel mounted audo controls in all Enthusiast-up models.


Model Breakdown (2006):


Base:Bi-xenon HID's, five-spoke 18" rims, 6-speed MT only. No VSLD or cruise control.

Enthusiast: Adds TCS, VLSD, Cruise Control, Auto-dimming rearview mirror, aluminum pedals, Illuminated audio controls on steering wheel. Availble with MT or AT.

Performance: No longer exists in current lineup.

Touring: Adds VDC (manual only), Bose Audio w/ MP3 playback
capability, leather seats w/ power and heat. Available with MT or AT.

Track: Adds Brembo Braking system, underbody aero package, rear
hatch spoiler, lightweight Rays rims (18"x8.5" Front, 19x9.5" rear). MT only.

Grand Touring: Adds Brembo brakes and Rays Rims from Track model, underbody aero package, Bose sound system, and leather seats. Available with MT or AT.

*Please note all automatic models Enthusiast up only had TCS, no VDC.

In 2007, Nissan took the 350z another step forward and released the new HR model motor. Featuring a new twin-intake, variable valve-timing on the exhaust cams, a 7500RPM redline, the engine was claimed to be 80% new. 2007 also saw the demise of the Track model and replaced with the Nismo edition car, limited to a production run of 1500 cars. The Nismo edition featured a specially-engineered chassis welded to stiffen the chassis, a Nismo edition body kit (dubbed the V3, for version 3, since it was the third iteration of the Nismo body kit for the 350z), and limited edition Nismo exhaust tips (not the full exhaust). The suspension is also stiffer and more suited for a track, though it is still quite streetable.

Model Breakdown (2007-2008):

*All models received the new 306hp VQHR motor.*

Base:Bi-xenon HID's, 18" five-spoke rims, 6-speed MT only. No VSLD or cruise control.

Enthusiast: Adds TCS, VLSD, Cruise Control, Auto-dimming rearview mirror, aluminum pedals, Illuminated audio controls on steering wheel. Availble with MT or AT.

Touring: Adds VDC (manual only), Bose Audio w/ MP3 playback
capability, leather seats w/ power and heat. Available with MT or AT.

Grand Touring: Adds Brembo brakes and Rays Rims from Track model, underbody aero package, Bose sound system, and leather seats. Available with MT or AT.

Nismo: Adds Brembo Braking system, factory-Nismo aero package, OEM Nismo suspension setup, lightweight Rays rims (18"x8.5" Front, 19x9.5" rear). MT only.

Hopefully this brief overview will help you to decide which model is right for you. When your ready to purchase your Z, head over to www.edmunds.com, locate the Invoice price in your area for the model you've chosen, and bargain away! NEVER pay MSRP for a Z! You should be paying at or just above Invoice.

2006 track wheel/tire specs
 

Slight correction on the track/grand-touring rims for an 06:
Fronts rims are 18x9 with +30mm offset
Rear rims are 19x10 with +30mm offset
Front tires are 245/40-18
Rear tires are 265/35-19
Also tires on the track/Grand touring models are bridgestone re050a (highly rated:icon38: )
While the tires on the other models are bridgestone re040 (poorly rated:( )

Q: What speaker sizes fit?

A: The front speakers holes fit a 6.5 inch driver and up to a 1” tweeter in the sail panel. The front speaker depth is relatively shallow, but allow 90% of the speakers on the market to fit. The rear speakers holes fit 6.5 inch drivers as well with plenty of room behind them.


Q: What size of radio can I use in the Z?

A: The stock unit is a double DIN. You can replace it with a double din unit, or a single din with adapter bracket (usually includes a pocket) from metra, scosche or any other kit maker. The stock wiring harness adapter kits can also be purchased from these same sources.


Q: Can I put a subwoofer in the stock location?

A: Yes. Most 10 inch subwoofers will fit in the stock sub location without issue. The factory subwoofer mounting plate is included in all 350Z cars, the only difference is between the models will be the “grilled” cover standard in bose equipped cars and the “blank” cover in all others. The bose grill panel can be ordered separately and used. The stock location is made for a “Free Air” subwoofer design. (As opposed to a sub made for a sealed or ported enclosure). Some have built customer enclosures out of wood or fiberglass that fit this space.

Q: Do Aerodynamic body pieces really functional? and how do they work?
A: There are some aftermarket bodykits that are functional, however, it highly depends on shape and the location of the aerodynamic piece

Canards: Typically attached to the front bumper, along the sides, these protrusions vary in length and curvature to optimize front end downforce at various speeds. Long, flatter canards are for high-speed, lower drag configuration, for high speed front end stability. In general the more curvature of the canard, the more downforce to the front it can apply, however, they are generally optimal for lower speeds (with road courses that have more turns) as at higher speeds they cause more of a drag penalty than functional.

Front Splitters/Lips: Airflow in front of the nose goes three directions. 1. up and over the hood, 2. creates a stagnation area that forces the air into the nose -> radiator/Intercooler, etc.. 3. underneath the car. Splitters and Lips that protude past the front of the nose (typically by a few inches) allow the airflow that wants to flowunderneath the car, push the lip downward, thus pulling the nose down causing more front end downforce. (thats why you see splitters with those two silver adjustable rods, so that it can attach to the bumper and provide structural stability) There does come a point where a too long of a splitter hinders performance, but generally a couple inches is adequate.

Front diffusers/Flat Undertrays: Always. Always run with your stock undertay. Engine bays are designed to operate it with them and when you seal the under side of the engine, it forces the air thru the radiator and exit near the back of the firewall. Front diffusers are generally trying to create a low air pressure zone under the front of the car (using venturi's theory) in layman's terms: airflow will accelerate faster thru a narrow channel than it will thru a larger void. Most diffusers you will see have a slight curve up. this curve up is where a 'vacuum' effect is generated. Flat undertrays is just to keep the airflow from getting 'stuck' in the various nooks and cranies of the underbody and to allow for a smoother air flow to the back of the car.

Vents on your hood: Depending on the shape of the vent and location, it will suck air out of the engine bay. typically reverse louvered near the front of the hood will assist in sucking air out by the radiator. vents near the back of the hoodwill help alieviate heat from turbos and/or the pelnum. Vents with a slight ridge infront of it will allow the air flow over the hood to go up, sucking the air up and out of the engine bay. Open/flat vents in the hood with no louvers are slightly effective, but at high speeds when the air flow is over the hood, depending on how large of the hole you make, it may be necessary to add a small gurney flap to the leading edge of the hole, just to make the air go up and over the hole to assist the air flow out.

Gurney Flap: a Gurney flap causes the air to seperate on the trailing edge of a surface. typically 1/2" or smaller at a 90degree angle to the surface it's attached to. ie. The trailing edge of a wing. Minimal drag penality, BIG effect on speeding up the airflow behind it.

Wings & Spoilers: an elevated touring wing on a Z does work. But at speeds 60mph and higher. The reason why touring wings are so high off the trunk lid is because it needs to be in the airstream that is not affected by the shape of the car's roof. rear wings provide tremendous downforce to the rear of the car (depending on the angle of attack) and can be very beneficial on the road course where high-speed stability is needed during turns. a trunk lid spoiler, 'spoils' the airflow over the rear hatch and causes it to seperate sooner. Our car is more-or-less the shape of a wing. by making the airflow seperate sooner, it prevents the rear end lifting. But a majority of the trunk lid spoilers out for our Z are mainly for cosmetic purposes. IF you want something that really works, it's time to convert your Z into a Salad bar. Add a gurney flap for more effect. These 3d looking wings with humps in the center and weird sides? is because airflow over the center of the roof is at different over the sides.

Side Skirts: Out of all the body kits i've seen, 90% are cosmetic purposes. however, in general a longer side skirt that is lower to the ground will prevent 'leakage' of air coming from the sides of the car that may disturb the airflow going from the front to the back of the car. the more of an enclosed 'channel' you can make for the airflow underneath the car, the better it is for high speed stability.

Rear Diffusers: Everyone of our Z comes with one.. it's called our Stock exhaust canister. Rear diffusers are similar in effect to the front diffuser, as it uses Venturi Effect to speed the airflow out from under the car. the optimal beginning of the curvature is under the rear axle/differential, but since we have so much hardware there, it's not a practical mounting place and there are too many aftermarket exhausts that get in the way of a universal solution. a gradual 6 degrees of incline is generally the best shape.

Vortex Generator: you may have seen these on the Evo MR and the new 2006+ WRX STI's. These devices actually cause the airflow over the rear hatch to stay ATTACHED longer (as opposed to being spoiled and seperating earlier) so that the airflow under the WING is FASTER, thus causing more of an effect by the rear wing. DO NOT go attaching these vortex generators ontop of our Zs unless you have a tall wing, else you're just making our rear end lift more so that before.

Fender Liners. You might not think that fender liners are effective aerodynamic tools but they are. Airflow over the tires actually go the opposite direction of the spin direction. i.e. the airflow will actually go toward the front of the car when you're driving. you might have seen these little flaps infront of the tires. well thats to allow the airflow to continue downward and limit the effect on the underside airflow. This is also why you might see side fender vents. It allows the majority of the wheel airflow to go out and exit away from the underside. In stock form, our fenderliners allow exits for the air caught in our front bumpers and for some people, air exits for oil/powersteeing coolers stores inside the fender areas.

General idea: Aero devices work mostly at 60+mph. Form always follows function. Stock Z form has Zero Lift, your best aerodynamic configuration...

Q: What Bulb Sizes Fit the Z?

(From Sylvania.com)

Q: What Fluids do I use in the Z?

(From the 2004 Tech Manual)

http://img164.imageshack.us/img164/7158/zfuilds2ce.jpg

Q: Do all Z's make a "clunk" or "chatter" sound when disengaging the clutch? Is it normal to hear a whirring or slight grinding noise when the clutch is engaged at idle?

A: Yes, these sounds are totally normal. Furthermore, the Z's transmission is rather noisy. Shifts will seem especially noisy when you are in an enclosed parking lot, tunnel, etc.


Q: I hear a clicking sound sometimes. What is that? Sounds like it's coming from the rear of the car?

A: Beware of a slight metallic clicking sound coming from the rear of the car. It is due to the rear axle not being properly lubricated. If your car has this problem, you will usually hear this clicking sound when (1) in an enclosed space or driving near a hard wall, (2) driving without radio and with the window down (try turning off A/C if you still aren't sure), and (3) starting to move from a halt. The clicking sound is more pronounced while turning, or so it seems.

If you have the clicking, your car is due for a "Technical Service Bulletin" or "TSB" repair for rear axle clicking, which is covered under warranty. Take it to a dealer, and don't leave until they agree to fix it.

Q: Help!! My transmission is grinding from 1 -> 2, 5 -> 6, etc! YES, I'M SURE I PRESSED IN THE CLUTCH ALL THE WAY!

A: Don't worry, you aren't alone... check out the Repairing forum for more info. There is also a TSB out for this problem. Take it to the dealer, and make them ride in the car with you. Make sure you know how to replicate the problem, or else they will not fix it.

Q: Help!!!!!!!!! I got water spots, bird crap, road tar, and/or other nasty stuff on my paint!!! What do I do?


A: Here is what you should do:

Step #0: PREVENTION is key. If you have a good coat of wax (such as Meguiars NXT) or sealant (such as Zaino) on your car, the bird crap/water spots will not harm the paint... AS LONG AS YOU TAKE CARE OF IT "ASAP". Do not allow the crap or waterspots to bake in the sun. This makes it more difficult to deal with the marks that these contaminants will leave behind.

If you have a good layer of wax on the car, fresh bird crap (even if it's dried on) will EASILY come off of the paint using a clean 100% cotton or microfiber rag, and a quick detailer such as Meguiar's Quik Detailing Spray, Zaino Z-6, Z-8.

Step #1: Start by washing the car. You always need a clean surface to work on the paint. Now, you probably noticed that even after washing the car, the water marks or bird crap still has not gone away.

Step #2: Get a "clay bar" (All brands are about the same. try Meguiars or Zaino). Use a quick detailer spray, or diluted car-wash soap spray, as a lubricant. Rub the clay back and forth over the contaminated areas. If the clay is sticking to the paint, you need more lubricant. Keep rubbing until the clay glides almost frictionlessly over the surface.

Step #3: Wash the car again. Dry it. From here you have 2 basic options:

Step #4A: If the spots are still very visible, you should use a very mild abrasive compound, such as Meguiar's ScratchX, Zaino "PC" paint cleaner. Do not use professional products or rotary buffing tools unless you know what you're doing (in which case you have no business reading this).

Using a clean applicator pad, vigorously (using 15-20 lbs of pressure) rub the ScratchX into the paint. Rub until the ScratchX turns translucent. Wipe off the excess with a clean 100% cotton or a microfiber cloth.

Repeat this as many times as necessary. You may notice that the ScratchX is removing swirl marks from the area as well... which may make the area stand out. If you want to do the whole car, go ahead. It will take a while, and you MUST use sufficient pressure, and you should NOT let the product dry on to the car. Be sure to top off the spot with wax.

Step #4B: If the spot is not that noticeable, you can get away with using a good CLEANER WAX on the spot. Cleaners in the wax will get down into the paint and clean out the crap without using abrasives. One such example is Meguiar's ColorX. This product is fantastic. Keep in mind that Meguiar's NXT and Zaino Z-2 or Z-5 do NOT have cleaners, and will NOT remove contaminants deep down in the paint. If you use a cleaner wax on the area, make sure to use sufficient pressure. You need pressure to help the product clean (it doesn't clean by itself!) the crap out of the paint.

Work a thin layer of wax over the affected areas using sufficient pressure, then wait to dry, and buff off.

Step #5: If step #4A or 4B did not help, you need more professional help from rotary or dual/action (porter cable) power tools and professional products. Seek help from meguiarsonline forums, autopia.org, your local detailing shop, etc.

Q: Is the "California Duster" safe to use on my paint? Will it scratch the paint?

A: Yes. It is safe to use and will not scratch your paint. Make sure to follow the instructions when you buy a new duster. Lay the fibers out on a few sheets of newspaper for a few days, turning to expose new fibers every 12 hours or so. This will help remove excess paraffin from the fibers and will prevent waxy-looking streaks.

The other acceptable way of dusting your car, as long as it is not very dirty, is using clean 100% cotton or microfiber rags and a quick-detailing spray. Quick detailer usually does not look as good as a fresh coat of wax, but it's good for maintaining your shine. It has lubricants in it which prevent the dirt from scratching your paint.

Q: If my car is out of warranty, are "Technical Service Bulletin" (TSB) repairs covered?

A: It is usually at the dealer's option/discretion. (Source: THE TECH)

Note added by DavesZ#3:
"Dealer's option/discretion" may depend a lot on what the problem is. A TSB is not a recall. A TSB is a technical note to the service tech explaining how to fix a particular problem. If your car is under warranty, then it gets fixed for free. If out of warranty, then you pay (normally).

If the TSB involves replacing parts, then Nissan still has to approve it and if the car is out of warranty, the chances of that are slim. That means that the dealer would have to eat the cost of the labor and parts. If the TSB is an adjustment, then the dealer may be willing to do it without submitting a claim to Nissan if the car is out of warranty.

Q: Which rims come standard on which trim 350Z?

A:
2003-2005 models:

2003-2005 Base Model: 17" cast rims all around
2003-2005 Enthusiast: 17"
2003-2005 Performance: 18" cast rims all around (Different than 2006 model rims)
2003-2005 Touring (Automatic): 17"
2003-2005 Touring (6-spd Manual): 18" (Different than 2006 model rims)
2003-2005 Track: 18" Rays Forged Rims (Different than 2006 model rims)
2005 35th Anniversary Edition: 18" cast rims all around (Same or similar as 2006 model rims)

2006 models:

2006 Base Model: 18" cast rims all around
2006 Enthusiast: 18"
2006 Touring: 18"
2006 Track: 18" Front and 19" Rear RAYS Lightweight Forged Rims
2006 Grand Touring: 18" Front and 19" Rear RAYS Lightweight Forged Rims

2007 models:

2007 Base, Enthusiast, Touring: 18" cast rims all around
2007 Grand Touring & Nismo: 18" Front and 19" Rear RAYS Lightweight Forged Rims

2008 models:

2008 Base, Enthusiast, Touring: 18" cast rims all around
2008 Grand Touring & Nismo: 18" Front and 19" Rear RAYS Lightweight Forged Rims

Q: What is a normal oil pressure?? My oil pressure is going crazy high!

A: The key here is that it does not get too low. When you first start the car, i.e. a cold start, your oil pressure may be as high as 100 psi. When your oil warms up, the viscosity drops, and the pressure will be lower. Please see the owner's manual for normal oil pressure range.

Rules of thumb:

At COLD idle/on cold starts, your oil pressure should be about 40-90 psi.
At normal operating temperature idle, your oil pressure should be about 15-30 psi. (If your idle has been raised it may read a little higher. If you are running without your A/C it will read a little lower. These are just ballpark numbers.)

Don't redline the car or drive hard until the oil warms up and the oil pressure at idle drops. At high RPM the pressure may go off the scale. That is OK as long as the car is warmed up.

Note: it takes longer for your oil to warm up than it takes for your coolant to warm up. Don't go by the temperature gauge on the dash board to determine if the car is 100% warmed up...

If you think you're having oil pressure issues, first get an oil change and see if the pressure goes to the normal range. Using different viscosities of oil will result in slightly different pressure behavior. The recommended oil for your car is 5W-30 (usual choice, good for winter), 10W-30 (also typical choice, good for summer), and 10W-40 (usually used only for extremely high temperature conditions). If you go too long without an oil change, your oil can start to exhibit viscous breakdown, and your oil pressure may drop below normal.

Oil pressure and oil level are NOT THE SAME. Low pressure does not necessarily mean low oil. But low pressure DOES mean you should probably change the oil.

If the oil change does not solve your pressure problems, there could be a problem with your oil pressure sensor. Damage to this sensor CAN occur if a mechanic is careless underneath your car.

Q: What kind of oil should I use? What brand of oil and filter is recommended?

A: The owner's manual suggests using "dino oil", that is, non-synthetic. Your engine takes 5 quarts of oil when you change the filter (and you should always change the filter with the oil). Recommended oil change intervals are 3750 miles. Try to stick to this, or keep it under 4k miles at least. There is not much benefit to changing your oil more often, unless you track your car or put it under extreme conditions frequently.

Some owners have reported excess loss of oil using synthetic such as mobil1. If you are not sure what to use, stick with regular old dino oil.

There is more misinformation about motor oil floating around than just about any other topic. For excellent and honest oil information, search these forums: http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi

[A short anecdote]
For example, some people STILL seem to think Pennzoil is a known "sludge maker" due to its paraffin (wax) content. Similar comments have been construed about Quaker State. Some people claim you could not PAY them to put pennzoil in their engine. Some even have called Pennzoil "Pennzsludge Beeswax" or some other clever :whatever: variation. In reality, IIRC, all motor oils (at least dino oil?) are paraffin based. Paraffin, when warm, is a liquid. You couldn't get wax to form sludge in your engine if you tried. Sludge does not come from wax. Sludge does not come from pennzoil. Period.
[/A short anecdote]

From my experience in reading up on the above mentioned forums, here is the general consensus on motor oil:

Almost any dino oil is about the same. (Anyone who disputes this fact has clearly not read up enough to know what they are talking about.) Motor oil undergoes rigorous testing and quality control. Make sure it is API "SM" and GF-4 rated for top quality. You will find almost all brands of oil are SM/GF-4 rated... Pennzoil, Havoline, Valvoline, Quaker State, Castrol GTX. If you are going with dino oil, you should feel free to buy the cheapest SM & GF-4 oil you can find. There is no benefit to being loyal to a brand (many brands are manufactured by the same parent company). There is also no harm in switching between brands. The only advantage to picking one brand over the other is their slightly different "additive packages" in their oil. For example Havoline has a higher molybdenum content, which is due to MoS2 (molybdenum sulfide) which is a good high-temperature lubricant. This makes Havoline a popular dino oil brand for those "in the know," but in reality, any SM/GF-4 dino oil will be fine to keep your engine running smooth. Me? I have used Pennzoil 5W-30 with no ill effects. I have also used Havoline, worked just fine. I am now using Motul 300V synthetic.

As far as filters go, mobil1, K&N, Wix, Napa Brand, Nissan OEM, Purolator should all be fine. Stay away from FRAM. There is sufficient data to support that FRAM sucks. I personally use the K&N HP-1008 filter, available from performance nissan. Don't forget to change that copper crush washer on the drain plug!

Also the general consensus is that if you want to switch to synthetic, do so well after break-in, or when about 10k-15k miles are on your car.

Remember, oil related failures are VERY rare. So, go with what you like! But please stick to the manufacturer's recommended viscosities: 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40.


Q: I just want to use the BEST OIL AVAILABLE. PERIOD.

A: Motul 300V. Knock yourself out. I use it and so should you. Yes, this is a full synthetic. It also has tons of MoS2 which is an excellent high temperature high pressure lubricant. Great quality stuff, used in Forged Performance's engine builds and I'm sure others as well.

http://www.mynismo.com/products/?id=4032

Q: Help! I was going 50-80+ mph and the car just died when I put it in neutral!

A: This problem is more common to those who have installed a JWT Popcharger, or some other aftermarket intake. In my mind, what's happening is the MAF is getting confused due to you having a closed throttle but it still detects some airflow, due to the air being swirled around in the intake tube while driving at high speeds. This confuses the ECU and it might cut fuel or something, causing the engine to stall.

The best solution is to stop putting your car in neutral at high speeds. Potentially, an ECU reset may be in order and this will help some people. However, it is better to improve driving practices by leaving the car in gear until you're almost at a stop. There is no practical reason that I can think of why you should put your car in neutral at a high speed.

Finally, you may wish to increase your idle RPM. This can be done (on some models) with the tool called "cipher" from AAM (google: altered atmosphere cipher), or some dealers may do it for you with their OBDII tool. Increasing idle slightly may help with those who have stalling issues or don't like the "rough idle" commonly complained about on the 350Z.

Some people have suggested a possible fix for this: clean your throttle body using carburetor cleaner. Whether this works or not is still not 100% proven, but a few people swear by it.

Why Fairlady?
 

Complete Story: http://zhome.com/History/FairladyName.html

Q: What are test pipes?
A: Test pipes are straight-tube replacement pipes for your catalytic converters. Removing your cats is usually against the law, but that doesn't mean you will get "caught" necessarily. Test pipes will add a significant amount of horsepower by removing the restriction in your cats. They will also make your car sound MUCH louder.

RESONATED test pipes are just regular old test pipes with some kind of resonating chamber which helps remove that "RASP" sound from your exhaust. The resonator does not have any performance benefit.

Obviously, when you remove the cats, your car will no longer have any way to prevent releasing air pollution (NOx, carbon monoxide, unburned hydrocarbons). If you want the performance upgrade but are still somewhat concerned for the environment, go with HIGH FLOW CATS. (e.g. Kinetix, Ultimate Racing, Berk Technology, Fast Intentions). These will reduce pollution (although, not as well as your stock cats) but even HFC's are still not usually legal. HFCs have been shown to provide similar gains to test pipes.


Q: Will TEST PIPES give me a check engine light / SES light? What can I do about this?
A: Yes, in general test pipes make the car think the catalytic converters are not working properly. You will most likely get a check engine light (although some 2003's have been shown not to get the CEL).

You can do this trick to try to eliminate the CEL. It seems to work for most people. Link here:
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction-diy/194001-test-pipe-ses-non-fouler-fix-pics.html


Q: Will RESONATED TEST PIPES give me a check engine light / SES light? What can I do about this?
A: Same story as non-resonated test pipes.


Q: Will HIGH FLOW CATS give me a check engine light / SES light? What can I do about this?
A: Not if they are working properly. If they give you a CEL (you must confirm that the CEL is due to the cats), call the manufacturer and tell them you MAY have a defective product.


Q: How can I check / confirm what my check engine light / SES light means?
A: Go to autozone, or a typical car parts store. They have OBDII (on board diagnostics II) scanners that can tell you exactly what the light means. It should be free to check the meaning of the light.


Q: How can I erase the CEL after I have fixed the problem?
A: Read here
http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm

Note, this will not "RESET THE ECU's FUEL MAPS" this will only delete CEL/SES light. IF YOU ARE HAVING TROUBLE, YOUR TIMING IS OFF. THIS WORKS, TRUST ME, YOU CAN DO IT.


Q: How can I FULLY reset the ECU?
A: Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery overnight, before reconnecting, pump the brakes a few times to ensure all capacitors etc. are drained.

FULLY resetting the ECU will also delete CEL lights, just like the "pedal method reset" as shown in the link above.

Q: Will mods void my warranty?

A: A dealership cannot "void the warranty on the whole car" just because you have a JWT popcharger or aftermarket wheels. If they are trying to deny warranty service, they must prove that the mod caused the problem.

Of course, adding a turbo kit (for example) can put a lot of stress on the engine itself, as well as to the drivetrain. Don't be surprised if the dealer refuses to perform warranty service on a heavily modified car, that's just common sense.

This is all part of the "Magnuson-Moss" Warranty Act, which protects consumers against shady business practice by:
(In short, if they try to void your warranty and your mod could not have caused the problem, sue the bastards...)

More info can be found here
http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/...s/warranty.htm

THAT SAID, if your mod *did* cause the problem, then it's your problem and you have to deal with it.

Q: I'm thinking about going Turbo / Supercharged. What setup is the safest and most reliable? What do I need to make my setup safe?

A: First of all, going with F/I is hands down the most extreme modification you can do to your car.

ANYTIME you increase the output of a motor, you put more stress and strain on its internals and parts. This is a FACT of LIFE and there are limits to the metals in your rods, pistons, etc, no matter "how good" or "how safe" your tuning is. It doesn't matter "how safe" your kit is, as (IIRC) every turbo and supercharger kit has, at one time or another, blown a motor.

If you are "going F/I" you need to have a backup plan. First of all, your car can be in the shop for months if you are going for a built motor setup. Installation can and will run several thousands of dollars. Only a handful of talented individuals have installed their own turbo kits, and very few if any people have built their own motor.

Building up your motor with upgraded crank, rods, pistons, headgasket, (there's much more to it, but these are just examples) is one of the first steps to making your setup more reliable and more safe. Not to mention, the stock fuel system is not equipped to deal with high HP numbers.

Other parts that can help are oil coolers and bigger radiators are popular additions, as are oil catch cans, water/methanol injection (to reduce cylinder temps), one step colder spark plugs, HKS DLI II and much much more.

Blown motors DO happen, and generally most people don't get much advanced warning that it's going to happen. This is an unfortunate circumstance of the stock internals and block not being designed to handle high levels of power.

Can you put a F/I kit on a stock motor? Yes. Have people done it, and have their engines survived for a long time? Yes. But some people's motors have blown, and the cause is NOT necessarily a "bad tune."

You should be prepared for the worst if you are boosting your stock motor.

Remember, you can get money for a USEABLE engine block, in a core exchange program. But if you blow a hole through your block, kiss your core refund goodbye.



Question 2: But wait, what if I just run lower boost, with a very conservative tune...will my setup be safe and reliable ??

Answer: Some people have suggested doing this, but HARDLY ANYONE has ever done it. Most if not ALL people who have suggested "running lower boost with a very conservative tune" have chickened out of getting a turbo kit in the first place. Plus, it will most likely not even be worth the money, trouble, and effort. The person who asks this question is not prepared to accept the worst case scenario of a blown motor.

But if you want to do this, go right ahead and show everyone how reliable your setup is.



Q: OK I'm mentally prepared for the worst. I am going to get a built motor, my favorite turbo kit, several parts to enhance performance and safety, and I have tons of money to spend. What now?

A: Break out your checkbook (financing a turbo kit = not a great idea) and start PM'ing or calling engine builders who will usually have most of the parts you will need anyway, so this is a good place to start asking questions if you are SERIOUS. Make sure you know well beforehand who your pro F/I tuner is going to be, and call ahead to make sure they have time to tune your car. They can clue you in as to which engine management systems they like to work with, what has worked for them, and what would work best for your needs.

If you love the 350Z and you have lots of money (Don't be surprised if your project starts approaching over $20,000) and you want more power, this is the way to go.

Just make sure you are within a comfortable limit of legality with your car. For example, california people may wish to stick with vortech or stillen superchargers, which are CARB approved.

Finally, USE THE SEARCH FUNCTION in the forced induction forum. People have been boosting the 350Z for a long time now, there is a TON of great info in the F/I forum. Do NOT disrupt the forum by asking a stupid question that can be answered with searching. If search isn't working out for you, manually browse through old threads. There is MORE to the F/I forum than "page 1."




Q: How much power have people pushed on a Turbo / SC / TT setup before their stock motor blew up? Who is still running strong on with F/I on a stock motor?

A:
Check out these threads:
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/273792-stock-motor-with-forced-induction-how-badly-did-you-push-it.html
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/343019-stock-motors-w-f-i.html

Q: How much will my insurance cost? How much are you paying for insurance, I want to compare to see if I'm paying a fair price?

Please don't ask that question. Ever. It is the most useless question that can be asked on this or any other automotive forum. Why? What you, I and anybody else pays is dependent on several factors: who your insurer is, where you live, how old you are, how many accidents/tickets you've had, what kind of discounts you get from your ins. company, how many cars and drivers in your family, etc.

As you can see, unless somebody is in exactly the same socio-economic situation as you are, they won't be paying the same for insurance. The only way to get a decent idea of what you'll pay is to call your current insurance agent or visit their website.


Q: What do you pay monthly on your Z?

Again, don't ask it. It's the second most useless question. How much you pay is related to the cars selling price, how large of a downpayment is applied, how high is the interest rate on the loan, etc.

Again, no two situations will be the same. Once you have an idea of the bottom line cost, check one of the online loan site like Eloan, BankRate, etc.

exterior
stock hatch: 77 lbs
hatch counterweight 2.5 lb
rear wiper and motor: 9 lbs
stock hood: 24 lbs
stock fenders: around 7.7 lbs each
headlight: 15 lbs each

interior
rear mat: 6 lbs
sound dampening "pads" in that space behind seats: about 5 lbs
shift knob: about 206 grams
leather heated seats: 50 lbs each
fabric seats: 37 lbs each
spare, jack, and tools: 40 lbs
headunit and speakers: about 7 lbs together
steel plate + bolts for subwoofer: about 5 lbs

suspension
stock sways: front 10.5 lbs and rear 4 lbs
stock spring and shock assembly: 10 lbs each
stock battery: 36 lbs

Standard Brakes
296x24mm Front Disc = 16.2 lbs
Single Piston Front Caliper = 12.2 lbs
292x15mm Rear Disc = 11.9 lbs
Single Piston Rear Caliper = 6.0 lbs

Track Model Brembos
324x30mm Front Disc = 20.0 lbs
4-Piston Front Caliper = 9.5 lbs
322x22mm Rear Disc = 17.6 lbs
2-Piston Rear Caliper = 4.3 lbs

fluids
full tank of gas: 6.5 lbs x 17 gallons = 110.5 lbs
full tank of washer fluid: 8 lbs

exhaust
plastic intake manifold: 4 lbs
stock headers: 15.4 lbs
rear muffler: 34 lbs
mid pipe: 12 lbs
y-pipe: 16 lbs
catalytic converters: 23 lbs each

wheels

(depending upon air pressure, almost any nissan tire + rim combo will be around 40-60 lbs each)
17" base rims F: 17x7.5 = 23.26 lbs and R: 17x8.0 = 24.140 lbs
18" track rims F: 18x8.0 = 18.1 lbs and R: 18x8.5 = 18.62 lbs
18" perf/touring rims F: 18x8.0 = 27 lbs and R: = 18x8.0 = 27 lbs
18" LMGT rims F: 18x8.5 = 18.3 lbs and R: 18x9.5 = 18.8 lbs
19" LMGT rims F: 19 x 8.5 = and R: 19x9.5 = around 22 lbs
all 20 lug nuts: 2.6 lbs

drivetrain
stock clutch weight: 22.19 lbs
stock flywheel weight: 23 lbs
crank pulley: 6 lbs

I spent some time compiling this and double checked many numbers from various threads and sites, mods (or anyone else) that feel revisions are necessary post them up.

Q: Are any new mods out for the 07 350Z?? INTAKE, HEADERS, PLENUM SPACER, TURBO KIT, etc? Can I get dual popchargers?

A:
Most everything you need to know about the 07's / VQ35HR's are in this thread:
https://my350z.com/forum/vq35hr/314637-please-read-this-before-asking-a-question-in-here.html


And for more information check the VQ35HR forum!
https://my350z.com/forum/vq35hr-479/





Q: What mods from 03-06 will work on an 07 350Z?

A: CAT-BACK Exhaust (no test pipes/HFC though), wheels, suspension, brakes, certain body kit components...



Q: Can I swap a VQ35HR into my 03-06 350Z?


A: It might be possible, but there is no good reason to do it. Much effort will be needed to get the ECU and wiring harnesses swapped and working. No one has attempted this yet. The primary reason: for the price, you are better off trading in your current model Z for the 07. Or better yet, beef up your current 350Z with a built motor and F/I.




Q: Will going F/I be safe / safer on the 07 350z?

A: The answer is PROBABLY. :fingersx: Sharif @ Forged Performance has repeatedly said that the VQ35HR looks beefed up for F/I. That said, the VQ35HR also has higher compression pistons, which are a step in the wrong direction for F/I. Nevertheless, stronger internals are what counts, and the VQ35HR definitely brings us some reassurance in that department.


Q: Are there any F/I kits (turbo or supercharger) for the 2007 350Z yet?

A: No!
There are no supercharger/turbo kits available for the 07 350Z. So you'll just have to wait it out.

GT Motorsports seems to have had an FI kit on a HR motor at this year's SEMA. So my guess is there will be something soon!

How to tell the difference between models
 

Q: How can I tell the difference between the models of the 350Z?

A: The information below was derived from this thread https://my350z.com/forum/buying-leasing/269606-easy-way-to-tell-differences-in-350z-models.html , started by The Brickyard Rat. I have to credit him, Voboy and JDMFairladyZ33 for providing the majority of the info. I have verified it against the Sales brochures and specs for each of the model years and believe it to be true, complete and accurate. Note that this info is not 100% accurate for the Roadsters. They have their own set of exceptions to a lot of these rules.

Base: no cruise control or radio buttons on steering wheel. MT only. 17" Wheels. No HID headlights (03-05). No autodimming rear-view mirror.

Enthusiast: TCS button on lower dash below steering wheel, cloth seats but no heater switches for seats. AT or MT. 17" wheels.

Performance: VDC button on lower dash, cloth seats but no heater switches or Brembo brakes. MT only. Available 03-05.

Touring: Leather seats. Heater buttons on center console. Heated seats and outside mirrors. Bose stereo system. VDC button on lower dash. AT or MT. 17" wheels on AT, 18" on MT.

Track: Brembo brakes and VDC button. Rear spoiler, underbody air diffusers. MT only. 18" Rays Forged Wheels. Available 03-06.

Grand Touring Leather seats. BOSE stereo. Brembos brakes. VDC button on lower dash.

Q. Can we run spacers on stock 06 rims?

Yes, you can run up to 25mm spacers on all around. It will clear even though it is dropped with springs. (not sure about coilovers yet, but probably)

Q: Does my exhaust need some backpressure to work properly or make more power in a N/A application?

A: HELL NO!! This is a myth. High exhaust velocity is good, backpressure is bad. The way to achieve high exhaust velocity is by picking the correct sized exhaust for N/A. If your exhaust is too small, it will create backpressure. If your exhaust is too big, the exhaust gas velocity will be too slow. That is why people do not drive around with 4" exhausts for N/A.



Q: What about turbo applications?

A: Turbo is a different story. You want the maximum difference in pressure before and after the turbine to maximize turbine efficiency. That means a huge exhaust is a good thing in turbo applications.



Q: What about supercharged applications?

A: In supercharged applications, you don't need to worry about pressure differential across the turbine, since the turbine is not in the exhaust stream. Therefore, N/A exhaust design criteria should be very similar to S/C exhaust designs.

Tire Pressure Sensors (TPS, TPMS, etc.)
 

Q: How does the system work?
A: Each wheel has a sensor that is part of the valve stem in the wheel. The sensor transmits the tire's pressure. To conserve battery power, a centrifugal switch turns the sensor on when the car starts moving faster than 20 mph. There is an antenna in the "A" pillar that picks up the signal from each sensor. The computer in the car displays the pressure on the multi-display (2006 and earlier) and handles the low pressure warning when the tire pressure drops below a pre-set value.


Q: I'm buying some new wheels. What do I need to do to keep the Tire Pressure Monitoring System working properly?
A: You need to get the sensors moved from your old wheels to your new wheels. It won't require re-programming if you take care to move the sensors to the same position on the car that they came from. That is, FL to FL, FR to FR, RL to RL and finally RR to RR. You have to have the tires dismounted from the old wheels to get the sensors out of them. Then install them on the new wheels before mounting the new tires. (Note: for 2007+, there's no need to keep the sensors on the same locations as there is no long a pressure display to worry about.)


Q: Can I buy a second set of sensors for my other wheels and get both to work on my car?
Q: One of my sensors died. I got a replacment installed by it's still not displaying a pressure.
A: Each sensor has a unique ID number. It transmits that ID along with the pressure reading. The car's computer uses that ID to tell which wheel's pressure it's reading. The computer only recognizes the four IDs associated with the car. If you get new sensors, a dealer must "re-program" the car to recognize the ID from that new sensor.


Q: Will the sensors fit this wheel?
A: It depends. They fit on forged or cast one-piece wheels in which the valve stem is aligned in a similar fashion (angled) as the OEM wheels.

They usually don't fit multipiece wheels or wheels where the stem is perpendicular to the wheel barrel.

They definitely fit:
18" & 19" OEM wheels
Nismo LMGT4
Volk LE/TE37, CE28N. They will fit the Volk GTS but sensor must point "up" toward tire.
PIAA Rozza (adapter available from Z1 Performance)

They can be made to fit almost any other wheels with the "banding" method, described in these three threads:
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension-diy/186197-how-to-make-your-own-aps-tire-bands.html
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension-diy/30147-designed-a-way-to-mount-tire-pressure-sensor-to-any-wheel.html
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...s-sensors.html


Q: I bought aftermarket wheels and didn't move the TPMS sensors to the new wheels. What's up with the warning light (!).
A: After about 30 minutes of continual driving, if the system doesn't detect a signal from the four sensors, the warning will beep and the dash light (!) will illuminate. You CAN'T disable the warning or the light. Neither Nissan or any shop can disable it (it illegal if they do it).


Q: How can I make the warning light go away?
A: Install the sensors in the new wheels. See question above.


Q: I bought a (2003,2004) base model Z. Can I buy sensors or wheels from another model and put them on my car?
A: Yes you can but they won't show the pressure on the multi-function display (triple-meter) or warn you when the pressure is too low. Your car doesn't have the antenna to pick up the signals from the sensors and your computer isn't setup to display them.


Q: It got cold last night and this morning, the Low Pressure Warning came on after I started driving. The display shows the pressure at 27 psi. I usually keep my pressure at 30psi.
A: The normal pressure for the OEM Z tires/wheels is 35 psi. The warning goes off when the pressure drops about 25% below normal, which is about 26-27 psi.


Q: I'm getting new tires on my Z, do I need to do anything to the TPMS sensors? Do they need recalibration?
A: No, there's nothing that needs to be done. The sensors are mounted to the wheels, not the tires.


Q: I have a 2007 (and later) 350Z and I can't find the tire pressure display in the triple-meter.
A: Sadly, that feature is no longer available to you. Starting in 2007, the individual pressures are no longer displayed. All you get is the low pressure warning from the system.

Q: I have two sets of wheels and sensors, can I reset the sensors myself?
A: Yes, there is now a tool your can buy that allows you to do it. ATEQ TPMS Quickset tool http://www.ateq-tpmsreset.com/

There are also a couple of threads on newly discovered DIY methods.
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ring-tpms.html
http://g35driver.com/forums/wheels-t...ial-tools.html

Q: I installed an intake (popcharger, CAI, intake tube, etc) and I hear a whistling sound. Is that normal?

A:
Yes, totally normal when any kind of aftermarket intake is installed.

In fact, the sound was always there, you just couldn't hear it with your stock intake.

Q: What is the best looking wheel for my 350z?

A: This is a personal choice question and what may look good to one person may look like crap to another. Best bet would be to look at the pictures posted here and make up your own mind. Be sure to also browse through the offsets and sizes as well to ensure you are getting a wheel that fits.

Edit: You can also start your search here: https://my350z.com/forum/wheels-and-tires/254081-wheel-thread-index.html

Q: My clutch pedal SINKS TO THE FLOOR on my 07 / VQ35HR!! The dealer is giving me the runaround!! What do I do?

A:

This issue seems to have a solution now:
https://my350z.com/forum/vq35hr/328151-recall-on-slave-cylinder.html

You may file a complaint HERE, but since there is a recall you might not need to:
https://my350z.com/forum/vq35hr/316071-make-an-official-complaint-to-the-nhtsa-07-clutch-issue.html

Q: I got a check engine light and it says theres a problem on (Bank 1 or bank 2). Which side is bank 1 and which side is bank 2?

A: Bank 1 is the passenger side and Bank 2 is the driver's side (US vehicles).

For future reference, the side with cylinder #1 is always "Bank 1". (Thanks DraGonAlchemist)

Q: Will stalling out numerous times in a short amount period give me a "Check Engine" light?

A: Don't ask me how I know, but yes. If you stall it many times in a row with a MT, the light will click on. Instead of dropping $100 on getting a diagnostic, disconnect the positive battery cable, click on the headlights to remove any electricity from the charging system, and then reconnect the battery. This will reset the computer, the light will go off, and unless something else is wrong with the car, the light will not come on again. I think that process is universal for all cars, and it has worked so far.""""""""""""

!!!!!wait wait. .dont try and do that if you ever go for an inspection OBDII style . .because even though you disconnect the battery. .your vehicles computer will save the code as pending in the back round even though your engine light has gone off. .and will only return IF the problem occurs again. .but if you go for an inspection the OBDII will pick that code up and if you either live in CALI or East coast sections. .NY NJ. .you'll end up failing. . .Local AUTOZONE's reset engine lights for FREE!!!

Q: How can I open the trunk from Inside the car?

A: There is a small cord that goes under the Strut braces on the rear. if you pull that cord it will pop the trunk.

[Note: That's an emergency release that isn't readily accessable from the front seats ]

Also.. Q: What size tires should I buy?
 

Q: The "Slip" light come on randomly, especially in turns, even though my tires aren't slipping. What's up with that?
A: Both the Traction Control System (TCS) and Vehicle Dynamic Control (VDC) can cause the "slip" light to come on. There are a couple of things that can make it come on even though you don't feel/hear your tires slipping.

The most common cause for this behavior is replacement of the OEM tires with a different size. All Zs come with staggered tires, that is to say the fronts are a little shorter than the rears. This causes the tires to rotate at different rates which TCS and VDC depends on for normal operation. If you install tire combinations that don't maintain that stagger, it can cause problems for TCS/VDC resulting in the "slip" light illuminating.

The stock tire sizes and Outside Diameters are:
225/50/17 25.9"
235/50/17 26.3" (0.4" stagger)

225/45/18 25.9"
245/45/18 26.7" (0.8" stagger)

245/40/18 25.7"
265/35/19 26.3" (0.6" stagger)

265/40/18 26.3"
285/35/19 26.9" (0.6" stagger)

When choosing new tires, try to find front/rear pairs that maintain the stagger of at least ½" and less than 1". You should also look for front/rear setups that maintain the same OD as that will keep your speedometer and odometer accurate.

Here are the most common "upsized" tire combinations. These are known to work and keep TCS/VDC happy.

245/40/18 25.7"
275/40/18 26.6" (0.9" stagger)

245/35/19 25.8"
275/35/19 26.6" (0.8" stagger)

255/35/19 26"
285/35/19 26.9" (0.9" stagger)

245/30/20 25.8"
275/30/20 26.5" (0.7" stagger)

Check the manufacturer's website to find the Outside Diameter of tires before you buy them, or use one of the online tire calculators:
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
http://www.wheelsmaster.com/rt_specs.jsp


A less common cause for the "slip" light to illuminate comes from replacing the fronts or rears only. If you replace only the fronts or rears, the stagger may not be what you think it is because the other worn pair is actually up to ½" smaller than they were when new.

New tires also come with a release agent on the surface of the rubber that must be worn off. That makes them slick and can result in your tires actually slipping, hence the "slip" light.


NOTE: The slip light does and will come on during "normal" driving that is unrelated to tire size or wear. If you apply too much throttle when launching or going around a turn, the wheels will slip and cause the light to illuminate. Also, driving on slick road surfaces (water, oil, rocks) can also cause your tires to slip.

Q: When stopped/idling in cold weather, my vents start blowing cold air, even when the engine is warmed up. What gives?

A: You need to bleed the air out of your coolant line, and possibly top
off the coolant even if it's a just a little low.

Q: Help! My REV-UP Z seems to be burning oil! Is there a fix? (RevUp = All 6spd M/T 2006 350z's + 2005 Track/Anniversary Edition, basically any 350Z with a 7000RPM redline)

A:
Check out this thread for help:
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/232332-revup-oil-consumption-tsb-and-discussion.html

Q: What the hell is DNF?

A: DNF is an "unoffical" Xbox Live clan composed of My350z.com forum members. Its origins date back to a small group of My350z members who would regularly play Gears of War via Xbox Live. With the introduction of Forza 2, many additional forum members joined up to compete in races online. These races quickly degraded into a competition to intentionally crash opponents by any means necessary including (but not limited to) driving tracks backward or parking their cars in the middle of high speed straight aways. Due to the constant carnage the group was appropriately referred to as DNF (Did Not Finish).

With the release of COD4 the group has grown exponentially to more that 40+ official members.

DNF now has its own sub-subforum here:
https://my350z.com/forum/dnf-crew-495/

Q: How do I add a custom avatar?

A: You must become a Premier Member.
Click HERE for information regarding benefits and ordering.

Q: Where do you put the jackstands if I were to lift both the front and the rear?

A: Please see attached

Q: What are the tint laws in my state?

A: http://www.tintlaws.com/

Q: The "search" function doesn't really work well. Is there a way to make it work better?

A: It's not guaranteed to make it foolproof, but here's a way to improve your search results.

1) When searching, go into "Advanced Search"
2) Type in your search keyword(s)
3) Select "Boolean" under Search Type and click "Search"

Attachment 413007
Attachment 413008

Q: I just installed some smaller engine modifications (ie. intake, spacer, etc.) and my car is acting weird.

A: Every time you install something new on your engine, you should disconnect the negative terminal on the battery before the install.
If it's too late for you to do that, you can reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery for ~20 minutes and reconnecting it.

This can (maybe) also be a cure for a car stalling at high speeds in neutral with a Popcharger.