Armitage

iTrader: (15)

My car has done that since day one. I'm used to it.

SteveZ

iTrader: (3)

If the clutch is not engaged, you will not feel any vibrations passed from the clutch or elsewhere.

Put the car in gear, push in the clutch, turn if off. Use the E-brake only when you need it. Don't leave the car in neutral and use it when you've been driving the car hard - pads on hot rotors clamped down is bad.

If the rattle is increasing, have it checked out by someone you trust. Your clutch may not slip, have a perfectly good T/O bearing, etc. but if it increasingly rattles when you turn off the engine with the clutch out, look into it.

No worries if it has been like this forever, as many others have stated, it's not a quiet drivetrain when you turn off the car with the 6MT in neutral and the clutch out - rattles pretty good.

- ST

SteveZ

iTrader: (3)

Or, change the transmission fluid early, put Redline or similar in it, don't be a clod with the clutch. Just like brake fluid (OK, not as bad) if you do any track days change FLUIDS frequently. It is an inexpensive option.

It's a relatively heavy clutch and if you try to be ultra-smooth with it then you are probably letting it slip a lot a wearing it out prematurely. If you do a lot of clutch drops, guess what, that burning smell is, well, your clutch.

Grinding gears and a slipping clutch before something more like 60-80k is not a good thing, and indicates problems that came with the car, or lack of preventative M. If you have any of the above listed conditions then you are into the damage phase, not maintenance phase.

If you wait until it slips, grinds, won't go into gear, hope you are under warranty and not into abuse, or open wallet and extract money.

It matters not if you turn it off with the clutch out or in (unless you are in gear!) - how you drive and maintain the car will have 1000% more impact on how long things last.