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2003-2009 Nissan 350Z

What have you done for your Z today?

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Old Nov 11, 2017 | 03:51 PM
  #13901  
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Originally Posted by dboyzalter
Yeah dog is a little spoiled... This is his secret stash...





Today I bottomed out like a champ and cracked the paint on my lip, soooo its managed to get about 400 miles on it before needing repairs... Not bad


You must be a champ at the fair! - "spin the wheel, win a prize!"
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Old Nov 12, 2017 | 04:30 AM
  #13902  
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Originally Posted by dboyzalter
Yeah dog is a little spoiled... This is his secret stash...





Today I bottomed out like a champ and cracked the paint on my lip, soooo its managed to get about 400 miles on it before needing repairs... Not bad




OMG!... I'm starting to see a pattern here.
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Old Nov 12, 2017 | 09:03 AM
  #13903  
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Talking AMSOil Synthetic Oil Change K&N Oil Filter





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Old Nov 12, 2017 | 08:49 PM
  #13904  
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Had a productive weekend:

- Motordyne 5/16” plenum spacer
- New Irridium plugs
- New belts
- Oil change
- Cleaned up the idler pulleys

Need to decide if I’m going to purchase longer M8 bolts or tap the existing to a M10 x 1.25mm for the strut bolts.
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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 05:42 AM
  #13905  
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Originally Posted by jg021v




Race ramps FTW! I love mine.

Out of curiosity, what made you go with the K&N filter over the Amsoil filter?
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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 10:12 AM
  #13906  
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I'm going to have to look into buying a set of those race ramps.

Edit:
Just looked. Those things are made out of foam?

Last edited by zakmartin; Nov 13, 2017 at 10:14 AM.
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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 10:23 AM
  #13907  
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i want them, just expensive and i have to have the long ones for the vette due to long front end and car being low
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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 10:39 AM
  #13908  
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Originally Posted by Bak3rme
you are supposed to reset torque wrenches to zero after each use?
For dial-type (where you turn the handle to a torque setting) wrenches, yes. As mentioned by dboyz, without relieving the spring tension by resetting it to zero, you'll change the spring memory, which will put the wrench out of spec.

You don't run into this issue with digital, dial indicating-type, beam-type or split beam-type wrenches. You can just return those to your chest when you're done using them.
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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 12:20 PM
  #13909  
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Soooo dumb question but how do you get the car on all 4 ramps? Do you drive the front end up and then jack up the back and lower back down into those blocks?

Just seems a little sketchy because when you lift the say passenger rear the entire passengers side comes up...

Maybe you drive on and then lift from the rear diff and get it all up that way but it just seems like it could roll away on you if your not very careful with it...

Not to mention I have pretty much no flat spots on my driveway. They do look like a handy product though, I could get under my car and hang out for hours.
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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 03:33 PM
  #13910  
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I went ahead and ordered the Hotchkis Sport anti-roll bars to go with the new Koni Yellows, Z1 Motorsports diff bushings and new rear control arms that are sitting in my garage. New OZ wheels and tires are going to have to wait until my current tread is slappin' Honest Abe's forehead. I'm going to be under the car for a while over the Thanksgiving Holiday installing all this new stuff. I'm still debating whether or not I want to install the OE front and rear spoilers over the holiday as well.

The car's finally getting some well-deserved love. Thanks for all the good advice, Mic.
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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 08:10 PM
  #13911  
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Dry fit and and prime for paint after market "fake" Nismo bumper.








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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 08:20 PM
  #13912  
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All this right after cleaning my garage....
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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 11:12 PM
  #13913  
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Originally Posted by zakmartin
I'm going to have to look into buying a set of those race ramps.

Edit:
Just looked. Those things are made out of foam?
Lightweight load bearing fiberglass
"Made of lightweight polystyrene with an attached strap handle, these cradles are easy to maneuver yet can hold up to 3,000 lbs per pair. "

To get the Z on the front ramps, I drive up those first, then get a 3 1/2 ton low profile jack on the driver's side and hydrolyze the jack to set it high on the wheel crib. Same goes for the passenger's side. The jack was a bargain with free shipping at one time via Summit Racing...

K&N over AmsOil Oil Filter
Over the use of the oil filters K&N has high flow low restriction design. They have a drain back feature to pressurize which make my Mishimoto oil cooler happy. #1 NASCAR approved.

Last edited by jg021v; Nov 14, 2017 at 12:29 AM. Reason: Oil Filter Opinion.
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Old Nov 14, 2017 | 10:36 AM
  #13914  
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Just doing a spring clean on mine...........

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Old Nov 14, 2017 | 11:01 AM
  #13915  
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Originally Posted by kiugarage
Just doing a spring clean on mine...........

Oh, that looks like fun
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Old Nov 14, 2017 | 02:58 PM
  #13916  
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Originally Posted by zakmartin
Oh, that looks like fun
Originally Posted by Silver280
Dry fit and and prime for paint after market "fake" Nismo bumper.









how was the fit and what company? looks good
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Old Nov 15, 2017 | 08:58 AM
  #13917  
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So I have the asuka japan prototype on my car but I lost the gas door for the kit and they don’t make the kit anymore anyway i could get a custom fit on my gas lid? I can send pictures if need be
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Old Nov 15, 2017 | 09:00 AM
  #13918  
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Originally Posted by Lightshaded
So I have the asuka japan prototype on my car but I lost the gas door for the kit and they don’t make the kit anymore anyway i could get a custom fit on my gas lid? I can send pictures if need be
wrong section
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Old Nov 17, 2017 | 09:00 AM
  #13919  
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Upper and lower radiator hoses yesterday. I’ll flush the cooling system and should get the TS short shifter installed today.

Also going to drill and tap the strut bolt holes to increase them to M10 x 1.25mm.

I’m blown away by how easy this thing is to work on. It’s really well engineered. I just hope I don’t f-up those taps.
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Old Nov 17, 2017 | 09:28 AM
  #13920  
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Originally Posted by tmdz
Upper and lower radiator hoses yesterday. I’ll flush the cooling system and should get the TS short shifter installed today.

Also going to drill and tap the strut bolt holes to increase them to M10 x 1.25mm.

I’m blown away by how easy this thing is to work on. It’s really well engineered. I just hope I don’t f-up those taps.
You've got me curious; why are you going to increase the size on the strut bolt holes?
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