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I'm going to send my old one out to get professionally carbon fiber wrapped and will probably just sell it. I want to keep the dash looking as stock as possible. It was getting scuffed up enough to bother me, so I figured, meh... might as well spend $400 at CZP for a new one. I needed to buy some castle nuts anyway.
want to sell to me??
honestly been looking on ebay to try and source the whole waterfall from top to the back cubby to the knee bolsters. How much did did u source yours for?
Koni “yellows”, Tein springs, Tie brace and chassis brace, Hotchkis front and rear sway bars, and adjustable toe and camber arms finally installed. Handles like a dream.
I had wanted to get that under brace for my Z as well but know that it will hit, scrape or get caught on something. The flex joint on my Y pipe looks like yours, frayed from scraping and it sits nicely tucked. My biggest concern is (since it hangs much lower) if the brace gets bent, caught, dragged, scraped etc, it might distort the same 4 bolt points of the car. The brace ties those 4 points to improve rigidity yet also will distort those same points if damaged.
I had wanted to get that under brace for my Z as well but know that it will hit, scrape or get caught on something. The flex joint on my Y pipe looks like yours, frayed from scraping and it sits nicely tucked. My biggest concern is (since it hangs much lower) if the brace gets bent, caught, dragged, scraped etc, it might distort the same 4 bolt points of the car. The brace ties those 4 points to improve rigidity yet also will distort those same points if damaged.
Yeah, funny you should mention that. This work was done about a month ago and since then, I have pulled the brace off. With the springs lowering the car a bit, it scrapped quite a lot, mostly driveways and such. I got it from Top Speed and had it powdered coated (good thing I don’t pay for this). Wondering if the Megan Racing brace sits closer to the chassis than this one??
I had wanted to get that under brace for my Z as well but know that it will hit, scrape or get caught on something. The flex joint on my Y pipe looks like yours, frayed from scraping and it sits nicely tucked. My biggest concern is (since it hangs much lower) if the brace gets bent, caught, dragged, scraped etc, it might distort the same 4 bolt points of the car. The brace ties those 4 points to improve rigidity yet also will distort those same points if damaged.
I didn't even know they made braces for our under braces lol looks nice. Seam welding the stock chassis or adding a ton of braces would be my goal if I ever got the chance to tear down my car. 350z R-tune, 380 RS, and USDM Autech Nismo models all have seam-welded frames I think and it makes a big difference.
Seam welding the stock chassis or adding a ton of braces would be my goal if I ever got the chance to tear down my car. 350z R-tune, 380 RS, and USDM Autech Nismo models all have seam-welded frames I think and it makes a big difference.
I would seam weld but not go to town on braces, unless they are lightweight tubes. I don't like the idea of adding more weight to our already porky z.
Speaking of... I drove my car to a local restaurant yesterday to pick up some dinner.
It bottomed out like a champ on the uneven entrance way... I'm pretty happy I don't have anything extra hanging low.
Their was a GTR in the parking lot, I wonder if they bottomed out.
Back on my depressing chevy Colorado ive managed tp remove the intake manifold, the valve cover, the steering rack, and the oil pan... Another day or so and it might be time to work on putting it back together.
Also test drove an element tonight, would have probably got it but kept jumping out of gear on the test drive. It would drive fine if you physical held it in gear, but if you shifted normal would pop right out and you would be in neutral just revving away.
O well, don't know why my wife wants another car, but theirs worse things she could want.
I drove the Z to pick up fluids to change out the rear diff AYC/ACD fluids, transfer case, tranny, power steering and engine oil on the X. Such a pita to maintain, spent the day under the car, beat and dirty now. Need a new battery, freakin just found out its 2-300 bucks for a vented AGM battery.
I drove the Z to pick up fluids to change out the rear diff AYC/ACD fluids, transfer case, tranny, power steering and engine oil on the X. Such a pita to maintain, spent the day under the car, beat and dirty now. Need a new battery, freakin just found out its 2-300 bucks for a vented AGM battery.
Interesting... why do you need vented with AGM? I just replaced the vented battery in my trunk (on my Benz) with an AGM and venting wasn't needed, at least for my application; apparently a benefit of running what I call Aggravating Grass Mat due to the high cost.
And yes, I realize that it's a misnomer that AGM are "dry cell" as they're not. But for my application and according to my Benz guys (whom I trust like I trust ZCG for my Z stuff), venting isn't needed for it.
Guessing your X has a different application; therefore a different set of rules. But maybe check around on this. My Bosch AGM did cost a fair penny more than my original OEM vented one but I think the advantages of it are worthwhile.
The battery, ACD reservoir, and washer fluid resides in the trunk. There's a small risk of a concoction of fumes or odor forming in the cabin. My guess would be to eliminate the most volatile factor.
I am looking at the Bosch battery from Pepboys with a current 20% off, as the OEM Panasonic is nearly $400. This car is finicky with its parts, doing a bit of research before I buy.
The battery, ACD reservoir, and washer fluid resides in the trunk. There's a small risk of a concoction of fumes or odor forming in the cabin. My guess would be to eliminate the most volatile factor.
I am looking at the Bosch battery from Pepboys with a current 20% off, as the OEM Panasonic is nearly $400. This car is finicky with its parts, doing a bit of research before I buy.
I hear ya both.
My OEM battery just replaced (actually was "original equipment" according to the battery date too) was vented but my guys assured me no prob so...
I didn't really do anything to my car today except give it a wash, but I went to this monthly car meet in my area and saw some pretty cool stuff. Lots of Z's, Rx7's and a couple R32's. It makes me want to save up for a GTST too bad prices for the skylines are going way up, much more than their actual worth.
Last edited by meezusthegoat; Jul 15, 2018 at 12:55 PM.
So the other day as I was driving home, I heard this screaming noise from the Passenger-Front corner. I immediately inspected, checked if the BBK was somehow rubbing or a rock got in between the caliper and the wheel barrel which would make some sense.
However, upon in-depth visual inspection, I've found the culprits and was hoping someone can give me an "exact" name to replace these bushings or Whiteline P/N. I am reading the Suspension 101 thread to get the exact name for these exact bushings.
If you know, please send me a text via message 1(909)642-7406, located in SoCal. I'm going to an auto store to sort this out. This may be caused due to heat radiant off from the rotors after the BBK and the lack of attention to these bushings.
