When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
ever since coming across a post of yours and seeing that---i knew that there had to be a story behind it--- but--- did not want to bring up any hurt feelings if there were any to be had.... glad to know the story behind it
Originally Posted by dboyzalter
Is that the first time you noticed that? Its said that for years...
Vo gave me that lovely title a few years ago... Their was a glitch in the forum and I took advantage of the technical difficulties by making myself a super moderator, uploading a avatar pic, and putting a heading on my profile...
Once they figured it out VO gave everyone a new catchy title for public shaming. But most of us just thought it was funny so he never took it down.
* and i always took your screen name to mean- you were dboy - screwed up somehow- got banned- so came back as dboy's alternate
but had to give the 6 inch **** the love
Last edited by tampa_joey; 11-30-2017 at 01:39 PM.
I'm working on a tool **** thread. It's going to take a while though.
yes! was going to ask for this. currently looking into getting a tool chest. while i dont have the money for snap on stuff i would rather not get a husky one that will fail in a few years. any suggestions would be appreciated.
yes! was going to ask for this. currently looking into getting a tool chest. while i dont have the money for snap on stuff i would rather not get a husky one that will fail in a few years. any suggestions would be appreciated.
get craftsman tools, they are not expensive and they do hold up.
if they fail you can always get them replaced for free. I've had craftsman tools for many years and only had to replace a couple small items that my son broke due to his lack of knowledge.
yes! was going to ask for this. currently looking into getting a tool chest. while i dont have the money for snap on stuff i would rather not get a husky one that will fail in a few years. any suggestions would be appreciated.
Craigslist is a great place to start. I got my Snap-On chest over a Craigslist ad for $950 and two boxes of 9mm ammo (back when ammo was scarce). I had to drive from Seattle, WA to Clarkston, WA (over 600 mile round trip) in the snow to get it, but I was able to shove all 650 pounds of it into my wife's Nissan Rogue and make it home alive. The box is a Special Edition Harley Davidson 90th Anniversary that was built in the 1990s, but I carefully removed the graphic panel and covered the Harley emblem with a sticker on the bottom drawer since I'm not really a motorcycle guy. The box was never used and was just a display item at a Harley dealership in Idaho. Basically, I got a $6000 box for under a grand.
If you're looking for something at a good price point, Harbor Freight sells some really well-built boxes (US General... made in China, of course.) All my boxes, shelves, tables, etc. are US-made, but I've been acquiring tools and storage since the late 1980s, so I've spread out the cost over many years. Most of what I buy, I purchase new, but I'm not against getting used gear if the condition and price justify it. I figure I'm in at a little over $2K a year for 30 years.
Honestly, I can't begin to tell you how superior Snap-On boxes and tools are when compared to everything else out there. You just pay out the freaking nose for their stuff. If I have a choice when I'm grabbing a tool, even if it's just a dead-blow hammer, I'll grab the Snap-On.
After I wrap up the suspension project (I'm doing a DIY for some or all of it,) I'll post a tool **** thread along with a few reviews to go along with the photos. I'm a big fan of US-made Snap-on, Martin Tools, Central Tools, Irwin, Lang, Klein, Lisle, S-K Tools, Stanley Proto, Starrett, HSS, Armstrong (though they just went out of business), Wright, Craftsman Professional (RIP,) Mayhew, Crescent and Channellock (among many others.) I'm also a big fan of Germany's Knipex (I have most of the pliers they make) and Wiha (most of my screwdrivers.) Japan's Mitutoyo calipers are amazingly well-made and the OEM, Powerbuilt, OTC, Vim, Gearwrench and KD tools from Taiwan are excellent as well.
As you can probably tell from the photos I posted, I'm a huge fan of Aircat for pneumatic tools. I have several slightly used Craftsman, Neiko, Astro Pneumatic and (especially) Central Pneumatic air tools sitting in milk crates in my storage room simply because they didn't meet my needs, so I replaced most my stuff with Aircat. They all work; I just don't like using them.
If you're shopping around for tools and storage, one of the best resources on the net is at the Garage Journal. All the tool crazies hang out there.
My only rules with my tools is that if I buy something, I need to use it to justify the purchase, and then I need to clean it off before I put it away. A lot of my stuff looks unused, but that's because I have a good supply of shop towels and WD-40.
Yeah deff no hard feelings. I thought it was pretty funny and my wife was also pretty impressed with my heading...
Took out more bushings... These were a bit of a pain in the ***.
Yeah, those are a pain. I'm keeping the rear control arms I just replaced and I'm going to try to rebuild those (even though Nissan says they're not rebuildable.) I found that you can get around the taper on the factory ball joints by using Nissan Ball Joint Seats (part No. 40173-33P00) and FEBEST 0220-777 Rear Upper Arm Ball Joints. I'm going to crack open the tapered seat on the factory ball joints to see if they can be pressed out or if they really are stuck in there. The bushings should be okay to press out, like the ones in your photo, but I agree, they'll likely be a pain in the to do.
I try to use all my tools also, but then I have a supply of new tools I dont really use, and a few sets of backup screwdrivers for when I can't find one when im looking... On occasion I find brand new things I forgot about. Recently I gave away a bunch of impact sockets and ratcheting wrench sets because I have it in my head that in order to justify buying more I need to get rid of the old ones..
Anywho if you ever get around to changing your upper control arm bushings its a pain in the *** because the u shape and the metal race is on the pain in the *** side of the arm... Here is how I did it.
First I put that bad boy in a vice and cut the bushing around the perimeter.
Once that was out of the way I used a hack saw and carefully made 4 cuts in the race.
I then took out the 4 triangular pieces using a cold chisel (metal chisel whatever it's called)
Once that was out of the way I folded the remaining pieces up and into the center as best I could.
At this point it can be pressed out using the shop press. I ended up using my spreader to support the circular section of the upper control arm. It still ended up leaving some marks but its was the best option I had. If you have a ball joint removal adaptor set that probably has better options.
I'm sure if anyone got this far they could figure out the easy part...
Last edited by dboyzalter; 11-30-2017 at 04:24 PM.
Took way longer than I would like to admit getting the stupid broken cotter pins put of these ball joints... Then cleaned up...
I know you said it took longer than you'd like to admit, but I'm genuinely curious as to how many hours you think you spent on pressing out the factory bushings. I plan to do the same thing with mine when I have some time to kill.
Woot! Just got a good deal on the dedicated 4-channel lab scope that goes with my new car computer. I think I'm going to put my old Sun/Snap-On 2-channel scope on e-Bay. I'm keeping all the current clamps though because I hate backprobing wires if I don't have to.
I know you said it took longer than you'd like to admit, but I'm genuinely curious as to how many hours you think you spent on pressing out the factory bushings. I plan to do the same thing with mine when I have some time to kill.
Once I figured out the best way of doing it probably 20-25 minutes for each upper control arm bushing... So let's say 2 hours ish...
The compression arm bushing maybe 15-20 minutes each.
Had to rip out the center first and then press out the race part.
The lower link I did the hard way without a press so that took forever, probably like an hour...
Then lots of cleaning to make them look presentable.. Probably 2 hours of cleaning.
The stupid cotter pins broke off inside the holes in almost every ball joint. Getting them out probably took me 15-20 min each. (They sucked and might have taken longer)
All these are extra parts from the low mileage car I parted out, and the links with no joints came from the G35 I parted out last winter.
I probably won't put them on the car till the spring time. I gotta replace my front brace anyways so I figured I might as well get some new bushings in their.
I got the rear suspension bushings also but thats looking like a much more difficult project.
11-30-2017, 01:36 PM
to do.
Man, I've been there before.
