Put deposit on salvage Z; advice pls before i pay rest of $.
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Hi all,
I just put a $500 non-refundable deposit on an '05 base model Z with 58K miles and salvage title. (btw - Price is $6.8K - someone is sure to be curious). Would REALLY appreciate suggestions on things to check before i plunk down the other $6.3K not later than close of biz on Saturday 1/9/10.
Situation:
1. Carfax shows 2 owners in Calif, mileage checks out. Accident was 11/09.
2. REALLY hoping it's all bolt-on-parts fixes + paint job, for almost all DIY (i'm an average DIY'er, not a skilled mech or body/paint expert)
3. airbags did NOT deploy, which i think is a really good sign re frame integrity
4. The impact bent the internal bumper-beam a little, did crush the crush-part that holds the left side beam to about half its ~5" length. the right side crush part is fine. Front end of frame rails look non-distorted.
5. it looks like the left front wheel was pushed in at the top a few degrees, thus the left front suspension/strut might be bent. I'll go with tools and jack and look closer next day or two.
6. engine started right away, sounded good. stood on brake and tested clutch in 1st, felt strong. (can't test drive it till i go back with tools and work on it for an hour or so).
7. I included an escape clause on deposit if motor not ok.
8. Any suggestions for a mechanic or savvy Z-er who i could hire to drive over with me and check out the motor, etc.? in Portland, Oregon.
9. Anything else I should check on to protect myself ?!?!
TIA! and best wishes to all for the new year,
Leigh
(senior instructor, volunteer mostly with Audi club, some others)
I just put a $500 non-refundable deposit on an '05 base model Z with 58K miles and salvage title. (btw - Price is $6.8K - someone is sure to be curious). Would REALLY appreciate suggestions on things to check before i plunk down the other $6.3K not later than close of biz on Saturday 1/9/10.
Situation:
1. Carfax shows 2 owners in Calif, mileage checks out. Accident was 11/09.
2. REALLY hoping it's all bolt-on-parts fixes + paint job, for almost all DIY (i'm an average DIY'er, not a skilled mech or body/paint expert)
3. airbags did NOT deploy, which i think is a really good sign re frame integrity
4. The impact bent the internal bumper-beam a little, did crush the crush-part that holds the left side beam to about half its ~5" length. the right side crush part is fine. Front end of frame rails look non-distorted.
5. it looks like the left front wheel was pushed in at the top a few degrees, thus the left front suspension/strut might be bent. I'll go with tools and jack and look closer next day or two.
6. engine started right away, sounded good. stood on brake and tested clutch in 1st, felt strong. (can't test drive it till i go back with tools and work on it for an hour or so).
7. I included an escape clause on deposit if motor not ok.
8. Any suggestions for a mechanic or savvy Z-er who i could hire to drive over with me and check out the motor, etc.? in Portland, Oregon.
9. Anything else I should check on to protect myself ?!?!
TIA! and best wishes to all for the new year,
Leigh
(senior instructor, volunteer mostly with Audi club, some others)
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don't buy a car until you see it
i bought a Z with a salvage title(stolen), buying a wrecked one is a guess specially not seeing it, because may have more damage like frame which you won't see in pics
if you want to keep it and you do the work is worthed, if you want to sell it or you have to pay for repairs is NOT worthed (you'll pay more than a clean title one)
and i don't think is a base model because of the side skirts and rear wing
hope this helps
Alex
i bought a Z with a salvage title(stolen), buying a wrecked one is a guess specially not seeing it, because may have more damage like frame which you won't see in pics
if you want to keep it and you do the work is worthed, if you want to sell it or you have to pay for repairs is NOT worthed (you'll pay more than a clean title one)
and i don't think is a base model because of the side skirts and rear wing
hope this helps
Alex
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That’s not a good buy. Add the price you pay for the car to the necessary repairs, and you are near to the value of the same car in excellent condition. And, this car has a salvage title making it difficult to resell even with the right repairs.
I agree that “non-deployed air bags” is a good indicator you can bring the car back near 100%, but you are obviously faced with some expensive suspension repairs.
Base models have less value except to people who intend to track the car. You might be able to resell this car to someone whose main interest in running the car on the track. Otherwise, I would pass on this car.
--Spike
I agree that “non-deployed air bags” is a good indicator you can bring the car back near 100%, but you are obviously faced with some expensive suspension repairs.
Base models have less value except to people who intend to track the car. You might be able to resell this car to someone whose main interest in running the car on the track. Otherwise, I would pass on this car.
--Spike
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See if you can get it up on a lift to inspect for frame damage underneath. Also check with your insurance carrier to make sure they will insure a salvage title car.
Overall I agree with lgear080, offer them less money because of the repairs you need to do in order to get it into good condition. If you think you can do all the repairs yourself and plan on running the car into the ground, i.e. not sell it, then I think it's an OK deal. Especially if the $5k is burning a hole in your pocket.
Overall I agree with lgear080, offer them less money because of the repairs you need to do in order to get it into good condition. If you think you can do all the repairs yourself and plan on running the car into the ground, i.e. not sell it, then I think it's an OK deal. Especially if the $5k is burning a hole in your pocket.
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So $6800 for the car and probably another $2k to bring it back to health. You make the call, is it worth it to you.
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If you're keeping the car, I think it's a pretty good deal. Knowing salvage cars - the damage is not that bad. If you turn this into a race car then selling won't be a problem, you will be hitting a market or roadracers and auto crossers. Like I said if you ever decide to sell it as a racecar, there won't be too many problems in that market, we don't rally care much about previous small accidents
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$9800 for a base model 2003? Then to top it off it might not have even received all the service that 2003's need (ie replaced/upgraded CD09 transmission, tire feathering issues, etc).
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Its an 05 , and when you mention tire feathering, we know you don't know what your talking about (simple alignment, all 03 to 08's are subject to it)
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TIA,
Leigh
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Regarding it being an 05, it shouldn't have as much tire feathering as an 03 (regular alignments should keep it in check), tranny should be ok, but might want to look into the latest revision of it (CD009), can't think of much more right now.. 05's are generally the best of the DE engines, as 06's are known for oil consumption, and 03/4's for tire feathering. Will edit when I can think more
EDIT: You may notice clutch chatter, as it is pretty common in our cars, and when your backing up if you hear a click sounds, its the rear axles not having enough lubrication (TSB)
EDIT: You may notice clutch chatter, as it is pretty common in our cars, and when your backing up if you hear a click sounds, its the rear axles not having enough lubrication (TSB)
Last edited by DB350; 01-05-2010 at 09:16 PM.
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also does anyone have access to a CD-image of the Nissan parts database. In the Audi world we have a disk image we pass around on the audi forum called ETKA, that has the entire parts database you can install on your home pc. Way handy for looking up parts better sometimes than the guys at the counter. Very convenient.
Also best source for full maint. manuals?
Leigh
Also best source for full maint. manuals?
Leigh
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I don't like it. That is easily 3k worth of damage and thats if the pics aren't hiding anything. If the asking price was less I would say go for it. The quarter can be mudded up but it will never be perfect and you will never be able to roll it. If it were me since the Nismo sides and rear are already there I would go V2 front. The headlight may be broken some where and may need replaced. That don't enven touch on the suspension. Add this up along with the asking price and I see you having more in it then if you just went and bought one that hasnt been wrecked
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the last things u should be worried about is the minor things like feathering. u should of done more research. I would of picked up up a high mileage z that was in good condition b4 this one a swap is easy compared to what u did plus it wont have a salvage title. $500 mistake