Is it me or the Z starting from a stop?
#41
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I can also let the clutch out slowly and get going in first only with the idle at 500 RPM, it just takes more concentration.
But my "perfect" launches are around 1200-1500 RPM
Since I have a G, which has a little more weight, I might have to rev a little higher than a Z. I never drove one, so this is speculation.
I never had difficulty driving it since I got it. I'm just saying it takes more concentration than most cars to master. My NISMO SS clutch line helps a lot too.
SSNOS: Try this when you can.
Rev to around 1K RPM while letting the cluch go at the same time. When you hit the friction point, slightly give more throttle and release the rest of the clutch. From my experience, as soon as the friction point is attained, the RPM will drop drastically, but with more throttle being applied it will hold the RPM.
This has to be done properly, or you can slip the cluth too much which isn't good. You can even try this at 700 RPM, and it will work. I have done it many times without slipping.
I use this method when I mistakenly dont give enough RPM before releasing the clutch. However this doesn't work very well in bumper to bumper traffic which I do every morning and night.
Even with all the difficulties, I find the VQ engine very hard to stall. It will still go at 300 RPM without stalling
Last edited by jardolei; 01-26-2011 at 09:03 AM.
#42
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jardolei, I will try that when I can get back in it. Right now its buried under 2 feet of snow.
What your saying all makes sense. I think the biggest problem I'm having is that when it starts to engage, I give it more throttle to maintain my rpm and the throttle does nothing, the rpms still drop. The car will start moving, but rpms are so low I will get a semi-stall knock, then once the clutch is fully engaged it will have either stalled or the motor will start reacting to my throttle inputs.
What your saying all makes sense. I think the biggest problem I'm having is that when it starts to engage, I give it more throttle to maintain my rpm and the throttle does nothing, the rpms still drop. The car will start moving, but rpms are so low I will get a semi-stall knock, then once the clutch is fully engaged it will have either stalled or the motor will start reacting to my throttle inputs.
#43
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SSNOS, even though my dad was a mechanic, I know very little of the workings of cars. However, I do know that a VQ throttle body can sometimes act up and need to be recalibrated or replaced. Since the throttle has no direct connection to the gas pedal, and is only controlled electronically by the ECU, maybe that is an area that needs some attention. Someone else will have to chime in, but I believe there is a simple diagnostic procedure to investigate this.
#45
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I will check that out. Although at the moment the parking brake is not so good, I believe the e brake shoes are worn or in need of adjustment. The brake doesnt hold the car so well, even if I crank on the lever. I've adjusted the nut under the ashtray but still doesnt grab that great. Either I have to adjust at the hub or get new shoes.
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