No ABS on hard (pedal to the floor) braking
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
No ABS on hard (pedal to the floor) braking
I was performing a brake pad burn in on a well worn set of brake because I read doing so can eliminate built up brake pad material on the rotor. Got the rotors warmed up then started the 8-10 passes of 60 to 15 mph. As I got on it I noticed there was no ABS. Eventually by the 3rd or 4th pass I gave the brake pedal everything my foot could give it, so pretty much standing on it. There was no ABS, not even a hint of it.
My concern is either the ABS system is not working or I have an aftermarket rotor/pad setup that is not jiving with the enthusiast model calipers in that even at full pressure there isn't enough clamping pressure to lock things up. Obviously locking up the rotors isn't desirable but the absence of ability to do so is concerning.
Thoughts?
My concern is either the ABS system is not working or I have an aftermarket rotor/pad setup that is not jiving with the enthusiast model calipers in that even at full pressure there isn't enough clamping pressure to lock things up. Obviously locking up the rotors isn't desirable but the absence of ability to do so is concerning.
Thoughts?
#2
New Member
You answered your own question. If you're not locking up the wheels, ABS will not intervene.
What exactly is your pad/rotor setup? And how old are the rotors?
What exactly is your pad/rotor setup? And how old are the rotors?
#3
New Member
Thread Starter
The pads and rotors are 3 years old and probably have about 30,000 miles on them.
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BlueSQ (04-09-2018)
#5
General & Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
If your brake pedal goes to the floor you need professional assistance. 02.
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BlueSQ (04-09-2018)
#6
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Thread Starter
I did a search for this specific issue and came up short.
#7
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Thread Starter
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#8
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iTrader: (6)
I'm curious about this. Is this because the pads and rotors I have aren't right for the size and clamping pressure of the stock caliper? They're definitely not cheap parts but the cars they go on likely have stronger calipers than the Z.
I did a search for this specific issue and came up short.
I did a search for this specific issue and came up short.
#9
New Member
Thread Starter
When you ordered online, did you buy sintered metal pads? The reason I'm asking is maybe it's the switch from full metal to semi-metallic organic that fixed the issue. They work differently to achieve friction.
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BlueSQ (04-09-2018)
#11
New Member
Thread Starter
Sounds like semi metallic or organic is the way to go with the stock Z braking system with smooth rotors. Kinda surprised I haven't seen more threads like this. Maybe I just used the wrong search terms.
#13
New Member
I've gone with Hawk on my Z and hated them; I changed them out after about a month. Centric Cryo-Treated rotors and the Centric Posi-Quiet ceramic brake pads with shim kits are awesome for daily driving. I'm in a super-hilly neighborhood and the Centrics have never let me down.
#14
New Member
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...l#post10908738
I run EBC Yellow pads these days and they preform great. Ran Blue for track days but they are too dusty for a daily driver pad and need some heat to really grab well.
Using all stock components you should be able to get into ABS pretty easily. It may not be how hard you press (IE: to the floor!) but how fast you get there. If you press down hard but too slowly (note: it may seem fast to you) the car will slow progressively without every reaching the lockup threshold. You would might be shocked at just how fast and firm you must be to reach ABS especially on a good surface. On a wet surface it will be much easier, but I don't recommending testing your ABS that way since you could lose control completely. I instruct at track days and my students are amazed at how hard you can brake and still have room to spare. Very few students get into ABS despite carrying way more speed then you do on the street.
other ideas: might be a tire issue, IE: the tires grip so well they don't skid. Or maybe by heating up the pads you might have actually over done it and glaze them over or could be getting some fade. If you got air in your brake lines from getting them really hot (air = boiled fluid) you will not be able to get the full force into the calipers (air can be compressed but fluid can't). As a result the brakes would be slightly mushy or soft.
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jhc (04-19-2018)
#15
New Member
Thread Starter
I got the Akebono's (with slotted Centrics) and do NOT like the Hawk pads, read why here:
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...l#post10908738
I run EBC Yellow pads these days and they preform great. Ran Blue for track days but they are too dusty for a daily driver pad and need some heat to really grab well.
Using all stock components you should be able to get into ABS pretty easily. It may not be how hard you press (IE: to the floor!) but how fast you get there. If you press down hard but too slowly (note: it may seem fast to you) the car will slow progressively without every reaching the lockup threshold. You would might be shocked at just how fast and firm you must be to reach ABS especially on a good surface. On a wet surface it will be much easier, but I don't recommending testing your ABS that way since you could lose control completely. I instruct at track days and my students are amazed at how hard you can brake and still have room to spare. Very few students get into ABS despite carrying way more speed then you do on the street.
other ideas: might be a tire issue, IE: the tires grip so well they don't skid. Or maybe by heating up the pads you might have actually over done it and glaze them over or could be getting some fade. If you got air in your brake lines from getting them really hot (air = boiled fluid) you will not be able to get the full force into the calipers (air can be compressed but fluid can't). As a result the brakes would be slightly mushy or soft.
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...l#post10908738
I run EBC Yellow pads these days and they preform great. Ran Blue for track days but they are too dusty for a daily driver pad and need some heat to really grab well.
Using all stock components you should be able to get into ABS pretty easily. It may not be how hard you press (IE: to the floor!) but how fast you get there. If you press down hard but too slowly (note: it may seem fast to you) the car will slow progressively without every reaching the lockup threshold. You would might be shocked at just how fast and firm you must be to reach ABS especially on a good surface. On a wet surface it will be much easier, but I don't recommending testing your ABS that way since you could lose control completely. I instruct at track days and my students are amazed at how hard you can brake and still have room to spare. Very few students get into ABS despite carrying way more speed then you do on the street.
other ideas: might be a tire issue, IE: the tires grip so well they don't skid. Or maybe by heating up the pads you might have actually over done it and glaze them over or could be getting some fade. If you got air in your brake lines from getting them really hot (air = boiled fluid) you will not be able to get the full force into the calipers (air can be compressed but fluid can't). As a result the brakes would be slightly mushy or soft.
#16
ABS will only activate if the wheels would otherwise lock up and stop rotating. If your wheels aren't locking up there is no purpose in abs activating as it would only reduce your braking.
#17
New Member
Thread Starter
I'm curious, has anyone else experienced this after installing aftermarket brake components?
#18
New Member
If you can't lock the brakes, then I'd start by bleeding the brakes properly, with a positive pressure bleeder like this one:
https://www.motiveproducts.com/colle...-prong-bleeder
You're not going to get enough fluid through the system using conventional methods of bleeding (brake pedal pumping or fluid vacuum pull). Positive pressure bleeding is really the ONLY way to properly bleed the car's brakes on the 350Z. Unless you do it this way, you're not going to get the pressure you need.
If you have tried this and your brakes are still sloppy and don't lock when fully depressed, then you may be looking at a mechanical issue, either with the master cylinder, caliper(s), ABS actuator, lines, etc., etc.
https://www.motiveproducts.com/colle...-prong-bleeder
You're not going to get enough fluid through the system using conventional methods of bleeding (brake pedal pumping or fluid vacuum pull). Positive pressure bleeding is really the ONLY way to properly bleed the car's brakes on the 350Z. Unless you do it this way, you're not going to get the pressure you need.
If you have tried this and your brakes are still sloppy and don't lock when fully depressed, then you may be looking at a mechanical issue, either with the master cylinder, caliper(s), ABS actuator, lines, etc., etc.
Last edited by zakmartin; 04-24-2018 at 08:33 AM.
#19
New Member
Thread Starter
If you can't lock the brakes, then I'd start by bleeding the brakes properly, with a positive pressure bleeder like this one:
https://www.motiveproducts.com/colle...-prong-bleeder
You're not going to get enough fluid through the system using conventional methods of bleeding (brake pedal pumping or fluid vacuum pull). Positive pressure bleeding is really the ONLY way to properly bleed the car's brakes on the 350Z. Unless you do it this way, you're not going to get the pressure you need.
If you have tried this and your brakes are still sloppy and don't lock when fully depressed, then you may be looking at a mechanical issue, either with the master cylinder, caliper(s), ABS actuator, lines, etc., etc.
https://www.motiveproducts.com/colle...-prong-bleeder
You're not going to get enough fluid through the system using conventional methods of bleeding (brake pedal pumping or fluid vacuum pull). Positive pressure bleeding is really the ONLY way to properly bleed the car's brakes on the 350Z. Unless you do it this way, you're not going to get the pressure you need.
If you have tried this and your brakes are still sloppy and don't lock when fully depressed, then you may be looking at a mechanical issue, either with the master cylinder, caliper(s), ABS actuator, lines, etc., etc.
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