Not the furry kind but the ones on your car. I was considering pulling the cats down and knocking them out in lieu of test pips. I did this with some other cars but wasn't sure it it's worth it over buying used test pipes or ebay specials for 80 bucks.

 

Yes, I did it on my old Mitsu, and a buddie's Acura. It effectively turns the cats into test pipes. All you need is a long bar/screwdriver and a mallet or hammer. Plan on 15-20 minutes of hammering (each) once they're off, but be aware you won't pass emissions, as there are 2 pre-cat upstream O2s for fuel delivery and 2 downstream O2s to evaluate cat efficiency. You may be able to pass with the "No-Fouler fix" on the lowers.

If it were my money, I'd buy them online at that price. You'll save a lot of effort and can always go back. If you're happy, sell the cats, they usually bring $100 and up. GL!

 

Theres no sniffer test up here, but a visual to see if the cats are still there. Thought about test pipes with a rezanator... it kind of looks like a cat. Might be able to sell it off as a high flow cat.

 

I have resonated test pipes. Unresonated don't sound as great. If I recall correctly, there is aluminum shielding around the stock cats. If you're worried about a visual inspection, maybe you could put the shielding from the stock cats around the new test pipes.

 

Just gut them.

 

As jhc mentioned, if you gut them you are going to get a CEL for the downstream O2 sensors (hence the no fouler fix). You may not get the sniffer test where you live, but do they scan your ECM? Also, driving the Z with a CEL for the O2 sensors will cause the engine to run poorly. I would personally recommend not bothering with the hassle of gutting OEM cats since they are valuable part (assuming they still function). I would personally use resonated pipes like the Motordyne ART.
-Icer

 

Why? If you're chasing power, test pipes are a drop in a swimming pool of money.

 

Like I said, there's a visual inspection of smog parts. No OBD2 hook up no sniffer, just visual.

 

If i go with test pipes that everyone is recommending. Should I stay away from ones with flex joints. Especially, cheap ones?

I read these blow out easily.

 

 

got a lead on lead on used ARK test pipes for 200ish.

 

The y-pipe has flex joint sections, so you don't need them on the cat/test pipe

 

 

Yeah man, the ARK pipes fell through. Someone else beat me to it.

I've been watching a couple vids on how to remove them and seen the huge extensions that you need to get those bolts from the top.

 

Find someone with a lift and do them from the bottom. Much easier that way, no need to go through the top with extensions.

 

I have a quick jack lift that I'll be using.

https://www.quickjack.com/

 

Taking the advice of just getting the Test Pipes. I'm gonna order these one form amazon. Should I pick up the O2 foulers also? I plan on a tune, but unsure when it will happen. Might drive it around for a month or two before the tune happens.

 

The O2 fouler fix is hit or miss depending on year model. Even then, I cant tell if the bung on those pipes are extended enough for that to work.

If you're going to get tuned, I'd say dont bother with the foulers, the tuner can just turn that code off. You may run slightly leaner, but it's nothing to worry about.

Also, I would reccomend doing all the mods you want to, prior to the tune.