Looks like someone stripped my clutch hardline fitting prior to my ownership.
also the clutch line is some form of jacked up hose clamped tubing.
I am looking into a entire replacement clutch line from master to slave.

I am wondering if anyone else has done this?
Any reccomendations?
any concerns?
difficulty?
any noticable differences in clutch actuation?

Thanks in advance.
I searched. but just get returns showing the short line from body to slave being replaced.

 

I installed a Tilton Clutch Master Cylinder , OEM Slave Cylinder , All New SS Hard Lines, Motul 600 , about 3 months ago.
Easy Job .

 

This is the right way to do it, a little pricey but will save you a bunch in the long run and save you from hydraulic issues in the future. I did the same setup several years ago but with stoptech fluid.

 

how hard was it to fish the OEM hard line?
is it still available?
anyone have a part number?

 

What year is your Z...?

If DE (03-06), at least one company (ISR Performance) makes a single long SS line from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder (replaces both the OEM hardline & OEM rubber line).

If HR (07-08), no company makes a single replacement line. However, ZSpeed Performance makes a SS line that replaces the hardline, and numerous companies make a SS line to replace the rubber line under the car. If you buy an aftermarket CMC (WIlwood, Tilton), it will come with a SS line specifically for it.

Are you doing anything else besides replacing the lines?

 

I have a DE with the nismo line and the braided replacement for the hard line that Zspeed sells, no complaints here.

 

Chanfing fluid to motul 600. And a heat shield. The clutch feels weak once the car gets hot after about 30 to 40 minutes of driving. Then it sticks down I think it has something to do with the jacked up rubber line that's on there now. It literally has hose clamps and looks like some sort of forklift rubber hydraulic hose that's been stuck on to the factory line. I saw it when I did the clutch. And then I noticed that the bolt to get the Hardline off looks stripped. In order to not deal with a bunch of BS I figure I can just get the ISR performance replacement line. It looks like it's one whole line I'm just wondering if anyone has done it before then they have advice. Some of these simple $100 part installs are quite a bugger to do and take 4 to 6 hours to get on and off I want to make sure that this is not one of those items

 

Advice? Get a new slave and make sure you have enough seals and banjo bolts, depending on mileage it would be a good idea to replace the master and maybe get a rjm clutch pedal if you want. Other than that it's a pretty straight forward job.

 

I bought everything from Z-Speed, and he is really good with advice and questions and the owner was a Nissan mechanic many years. That said Mine is a 2006 Rev-Up . No it is not hard to snake the lines thru.

 

RBF600 is overkill unless you're going to the track every weekend. Valvoline Synpower, ATE Type 200, etc, would be much more economical.

It's highly unlike the heat is causing an issue with the fluid, rather, it's most likely the master and/or slave cylinders combined with the questionable hose & connections you mentioned.

Since you're looking at the ISR line, I'm assuming it's a DE. If so, you won't have to worry about the hardline to softline connection on the car, as the ISR line will bypass that. If you're worried about heat, it's not a bad idea to get some insulation wrap for the line where it's under the car. Many companies sell a SS replacement "short" line that is also insulated.

I have an 08, and had an issue with the clutch pedal sticking to the floor, preventing me from engaging any gears, while on track after 5-10 min of hot laps. Solution (that I'm testing next week, actually), was the scorched-earth policy: Replace the master cylinder w/ OEM, replace the slave cylinder w/ ZSpeed's heavy duty version, new clutch, new flywheel (Luk off RockAuto), ZSpeed's long SS clutch line and short insulated SS clutch line, Synpower fluid.

 

I have access to cheap motul 600 fluid that i use in my track miata. main reason im sticking it in it.

it is a rev up. but yes cd009. DE engine.

I think it is heat related as car is great on short drives and when first started.
the sticking soft pedal only occurs after about a 30 minute drive or longer. and gets worse if I sit in traffic. and doesnt present as fast if im high way cruising.
I have some DEI head sleeve i was going to put on it.

I have the ISR resonated test pipes and Y pipe. their product fit well and sounds great. i don't mind continuing to purchase from a vendor that sells decent stuff

 

This is OEM MC to SC clutch line. Also the main reason why is so damn difficult to bleed the clutch.

 

Masterjr33..... I bought my Z new in 06' its a Rev Up like yours. I drove it 12+ years with the clutch failing to disengage . Same as you when the car would run 15 minutes no problem , after 15 minutes and things heat up clutch fails to return upright. I tried Nissan GTR fluid , than Motul Fluid and its a band aid .
The car will drive slightly longer with the better fluid before suffering the same issue. Bottom line the Nissan OEM Master is C R A P . I only used mine so long in this way , because my office is 3 miles from my home and for my short trips I could live with it . To solve this problem and have the Clutch work perfectly and sling shot back up when you release it , Tilton Master Cylinder + New OEM Slave + SS Lines + New Fluid . The Parts run less than $500 for everything , do the labor yourself. Best $500 you can spend on these cars. You can try just a slave + Fluid + SS Lines , but I would bet you will still have this problem.

My $00.02

Also with the Tilton Bleeding becomes a cake walk.

https://zspeed.com/product/zspeed-ti...rade-350z-g35/

https://zspeed.com/product/nissan-35...-high-quality/

https://zspeed.com/product/zspeed-st...50z-g35-coupe/

^^^^ $333.00^^^^ Plus Shipping $25 .
+ Fluid so..... < $500

Done

 

Unless you're doing strenuous track duty, OEM CMC should be fine. Upgrading it won't hurt, though!

I see one issue with your list... If you're buying the Tilton or Wilwood CMC, each one comes with its own SS line (from the CMC to the junction under the car). Buying Zspeed's SS line then becomes redundant. And you'd still need to replace the short rubber clutch line under the car.

Insulated Short SS Line: https://zspeed.com/product/zspeed-pr...hose-350z-g35/