So I say this is unique only because I haven't been able to find an exact same situation in any forums for any other cars. I have a 2004 350Z. About 3 weeks ago my car didn't wanna start for me and left me stuck. I turn the key and just get a single click then nothing. I smacked it a bunch of times in case it was stuck, still just a single click. I've tried bypassing the solenoid with a screw driver and it wouldn't turn the engine over or even spark or nothing (if anyone can tell me why it didn't work or how to bypass to get my engine to turn over I'd be great ful) my battery is still good, I had it tested and charged. It's an optima yellowtop d35. Connections are clean and tight, fuses where checked inside and out including the hidden IPDM fuse panel behind the battery and those were all good, engine isn't locked up. It's my daily driver so I don't do track days or drive hard regardless. I replaced the old starter with a new one and still only get just a single click from the NEW starter and then nothing. What could it be. If anyone has experienced the same scenario please let me know what fixed the problem. Also all lights work and dont dim at all when I turn the key. The car still recognizes both of my keys and key fobs.The blower works perfectly inside the car. The horn thinks loud and consistant while turning the key to start. There's accessories on now are there anything like subs or amps in the car...... No luck please help. I've researched the **** out of this everyday because its my only car and my lifeline. I feel like it's something tiny my dumbass has managed to miss this whole time but I don't know and I'm completely stumped.

 

What part of town ?

 

Not saying this is your case but I had a truck at the dealership that was diagnosed for a starter and was given to me, I did the starter and all it did was click once after replacing it. Engine had seized up due to bad bearings.

 

Have you checked that when the key is turned there is a constant 12v going to the solenoid? This should be the first step in a process of elimination of possible causes.

 

i know you said you checked the IPDM, but there is a starter relay (4th relay down) and an ignition fuse, which i believe is the 2nd fuse from the top on the left side of the tree. If you are still confident both of these are fine, then you'll want to bench test the starter to make sure it is engaging. The first replacement starter i had was a rebuilt pos and didn't work out of the box, so i wouldn't rule that out entirely. If you have a stick shift, you can pop the clutch to see if she will start up, if she does, then it will help you isolate the issue back to the starter itself.

 

Thank you for the reply. Yes, I swapped the high beam relay with the starter relay and both worked fine and my high beams worked and were bright every time. The starter is a rebuilt Ultima brand starter from Oriellys. Also none of the teeth on the old bendix or flywheel are damaged at all. My mom was the original owner so it's an automatic trans.

 

In the mountains.

 

take the old start if you still have it to the shop. have them bench test it.

2nd. check voltage to the starter. may be worn.corroded cables or lack of voltage to the starter.

3rd. spin the motor by hand with a breaker bar on the crank. does it spin over?

4th. take new starter off have it bench tested.


report back.

 

I didn't notice you stating you had the battery load tested, did you by chance? If not i would do that before going further. Battery can be fully charged enough to work everything in the car but not enough amperage to start it.

 

I would start with a bench check, starter is easy enough to remove

 

I'm pretty sure the starter is grounded through the engine block. Make sure your engine's ground strap is good! If it's fraying, broken, or corroded, you won't get enough juice to the starter, you could have a solid 12V making it to the starter or solenoid, but without a solid ground to complete the circuit, you will still be S.O.L.
-Icer

 

update? Same situation rn