That_hrz

I started by getting the removing the bumper and hood then disconnecting the battery.

Followed by removing my intercooler and the rest of the turbo kit

Intake manifold removed, plugs disconnected and labeled, alternator removed and zip tied off to the side, coolant hoses removed, transmission bolts removed, motor mounts removed and engine is ready to be removed.

I then drained the radiator and power steering fluids. Also removing the radiator support and fans. Disconnecting the AC lines and AC compressor
As most of you guys know my z spun a bearing a bearing 3 weeks ago. I’ve sourced a low mile 26k motor from a local junkyard to swap. After doing some research on who I’d prefer to build my block I will be going through Dynosty for a 800+ HP Stage 3 short block. The block includes Manley Platinum Pistons with Upgraded Pins, Total Seal stainless rings, Manley Turbo Tuff Rods, ARP Main Studs, ACL bearings, Align Hone and Polish Crank as needed, Balance and Blueprint, Bore and Hone with Torque Plate, Deck, Wash and Dynosty Pro Assembly to Dynosty Specs. My car was running a Boosted Performance twin scroll turbo kit with comp 6267 oil less turbo. 566whp/460wtq on E85@ 13psi. 480whp/404wtq on 93 @ 12psi. Mods included:
-CJM S1 fuel return system
-1200cc FIC injectors
-Walbro 450lph Fuel pump
-Aem tru boost/ wideband gauges
-Z1 Road race clutch/ lightweight flywheel
-ZSpeed CMAK v2
-Z1 Single exit exhaust
-Uprev tuned by Ray Rowe @RZG Motorsports

Walbro 450lph 1200 FIC injectors

Boosted performance twin scroll

Z1 road race clutch/ lightweight flywheel

Z

New 26k mile motor


Starting the tear down

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

good start - keep that train moving!

can only assume you're getting ARP L19 Headstuds and the traditional ARP 2000 main studs?

Look into Dynostys billet girdle - highly suggested

add an oil cooler (even though your blower is oilless) you'll be generating a lot more heat.

That_hrz

CA625 head studs and 2000 main studs. The goal is to build a bulletproof block I never have to touch again. Over build and not use all the power. Rjm closed deck configuration for longevity as these blocks seem to not hold headgaskets well @ open configuration past 800+ hp. Bearings will be wpc treated and pistons ceramic coated. Definitely will look into the Dynosty billet girdle.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

It's perfectly fine to plan the build to be bullet proof (and wise to) but it'll be a 10cent gasket that ***** the bed...lol!!! just how life works!

If I were you, I would probably lower your HP goals ... 800hp+ is pretty rough on an 3.5liter engine if you expect it to have great-longevity. If you want to touch 800hp, 900hp, 1000hp once for the print-out that's one thing. If you want this engine to last years/10s of thousands of miles dial it down to 500 to 600hp. You wont be able to use anything past 600hp on the streets anyways.

You can have the best bearings, best rods, best pistons, etc ... but if you lose lubrication it wont matter ... add another $400 to your build and run upgraded oil pump gears - sucker punch motorsports and boundary engineering make upgraded gears.

Furthermore, upgrade your ECU to something that has engine protection features ... coolant pressure, oil pressure, fuel pressure, closed loop fuel control, ethanol content control and might as well add antilag, launch control. Yes, you can run Uprev and theres nothing wrong with Uprev...but your goals are too big for uprev (in my opinion).

rcdawgs

Have the same BP kit with the upgraded injectors/pump and plan on a very similar build, rjm block and all. Good luck! Def sub'd

That_hrz

After spending about an hour and a half using bread, grease, wet paper and other methods to get the pilot bearing out.

Ended up going to harbor freight and getting a blindhole puller and getting it out with 2 pulls

I used a bolt and nut with a rubber mallet to hammer the new bearing in. Also aligned the flywheel and torqued it to spec.

I torqued the pressure plate bolt to spec also using blue 272 thread locker on these after cleaning up the bolts with brake cleaner. I struggled for about 2 hours trying to get the transmission on to the engine. Harbor freight saved the day again with one of their transmission jacks with a strap that made the job 10 times easier.

Figured while the motor was out why not upgrade my motor mounts to z1 polyurethane mounts.

Engine and trans back in belt on and accessories as well

That_hrz

Reinstalled my CJM fuel rails and 1200cc FIC injectors as well as the spark plugs from my old motor which are VHR spark plugs I believe they are one step colder than HR.

Radiator/ front support reinstalled as well as intercooler and the rest of the cold side piping

That_hrz

Car cranked but would not start. Eventually just got one loud click. Took the battery to auto zone which checked out fine so I double checked everything and realized the battery harness wasn’t grounded. Car started right up after that.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

looking good HRZ

what's next?

That_hrz

Thanks. Currently taking the heads off the old motor and getting ready to ship the bottom end to dynosty.

rcdawgs

What made you change your mind on the RJM block?

That_hrz

I was just going back and forth with the whole closed deck open deck argument but I am in fact still going with the rjm closed deck for the price you might as well.

That_hrz

It’s going to be rjm closed deck block but built by dynosty

That_hrz

That_hrz

Blueprint: RJM VQ35HR closed deck block, oem 37VHR crank, 37VHR carillo pro-h rods, 35HR manley performance platinum pistons 96mm, CJM turbo manifolds, GTX3076R Gen 2's, stock heads, stock sized valves, oem plenum, 272 GTM turbo cam, top half of old GTM TT kit, E85, 11:1 comp, Haltech Elite 2500, SPEC twin disk P-Trim clutch.

That_hrz

Pretty much still going the same route as this guy with the vq37 crank and rods with hr Manley platinum 11:1 pistons, ID1700 injectors, CJM twin pump.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

Are you going to run 96mm pistons? will that require boring-out the cylinder? (If it was me, I'd go with an OEM diameter)

Haltech kicks *** and it's plenty capable but look into Link. It'll have all the features the Haltech does (if not a few more) and it's half the cost. I switched over and I've had a great experience but with the hardware but also the customer support.

That_hrz

I was going to go 96mm pistons and yes it would require that. From what I’m told is block guards are pressed in, then there’s CNC machining inside the water passage so the block guard can sit correctly, then they weld the block guard on top of the deck, then redeck and face the block. That’s interesting I haven’t heard of link who tuned it for you. I’ve heard of emtron also another good one. I’ll look into it

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

If it was me … I'd do with 'off the shelf' parts … Parts will be less expensive on the front end, no machine work to get everything installed, and generally it's one less thing to go wrong. If/when **** his the fan things will be less expensive to rebuild.

Link ECU dot com …
I used Jason from PSI out of Portland but any good tuner will know the setup - it's very similar to Haltech in how it's setup. I would say my plug & play/piggyback haltech was significantly less complicated than my standalone Link … but it's comparing apples to oranges. The standalone haltech may have more features and thus be more complicated to setup.

I've got some related link content in my build thread and member Ffflipski (spelling) has a good thread on it as well.

Just something to consider...

rcdawgs

Hey, heads up - per Sasha on the Boosted Performance kit and CMAK

"Non compatible with the CMAK type kit, but good with just the HD upgrade, as long as there is nothing (hardware) being mounted to the outside of the transmission."

... unless you have an updated charge pipe to clear the CMAK.

Joe at ZSpeed said he runs the HD CSC on his HR with the BP kit so that's what I went with.