350+hp?
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From: Colorado
350+hp?
I'm new to the form and relatively new to cars also I bought my 350z about 2 years ago and all I've done are simple mods like suspension, wheels, exhaust, intake, and intake manifold. Now I think I'm ready to start building this thing more properly, my goal is 350hp while staying NA because I hear it's a real challenge and people doubt I can, I want to prove them wrong. I was wondering what mods would help me get to my goal or as close as possible.
Last edited by 970.stock.z33; Oct 31, 2019 at 10:58 AM. Reason: Typo
because it's a real challenge …
how much money do you want to spend and/or how much money do you have?
how much money do you want to spend and/or how much money do you have?
or just ask your tuner to crank-up the correction factor on your dyno-pulls
Last edited by bealljk; Oct 31, 2019 at 11:50 AM.
Assuming this is a DE???
cool … well - I would tell you that my napkin cost sketch will be close enough … which is around $11k for parts and headwork, add another $3000 for block disassembly/cleaning/machining/assembly/fluids/gaskets, add $2000 for a robust tuning platform and $1000 for tuning...
not to mention youre doing this in a climate/elevation/location that has minimal oxygen density
your up to $17k to prove to a by-gone crowd that you know how to waste money … 'a fool and his money are soon parted'
Or, Spend $5k and put a turbo setup on it and you'll be at 400hp-425hp, likely more reliable, has more usable power
what part of colo do you live?
not to mention youre doing this in a climate/elevation/location that has minimal oxygen density
your up to $17k to prove to a by-gone crowd that you know how to waste money … 'a fool and his money are soon parted'
Or, Spend $5k and put a turbo setup on it and you'll be at 400hp-425hp, likely more reliable, has more usable power
what part of colo do you live?
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If you really want to do it and are willing to spend correctly. Call/Hire JWT to build your engine. They are the ones that built and designed the engine for Sasha's (On point dyno)last build. There is potential to go even higher but guarantee to spend a minimum of 25k for your goals.
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Joined: Apr 2019
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From: Australia
If you really want to do it and are willing to spend correctly. Call/Hire JWT to build your engine. They are the ones that built and designed the engine for Sasha's (On point dyno)last build. There is potential to go even higher but guarantee to spend a minimum of 25k for your goals.
but Trav is right...he dreaming...
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After 6-7 Chevy motor builds, I switched to sports cars and along that path, built a normally aspirated L28/E31 Z motor and it was extremely gratifying. Put down ~200whp in a time when it's stock counterpart was at 170bhp crank.
But would I do it again?
Not a chance.
That build - with big carbs, big RB cam, pistons that cost the equivalent of a week's wages of the average store worker - not me, just an analogy (and that's EACH x 6), clutch & transmission to hold the power and the necessary rear diff/gear work to enable the car to run up in the proper power band range - was exciting but pretty useless except on the 10-15% of roads or track where one could exploit its power. The other 85-90% of the time, the motor was pretty untractable on public roads lugging at any gear above 3rd because the speeds were so low in everyday driving.
That all changed with my other L28 build, putting down an honest ~220whp, while still retaining the stock L-Jet fuel injection, stock drivetrain, and using pump gas. And the important stuff, retaining the general reliability of the entire car to be able to drive it anywhere, anytime. BAE Turbo, modified computer, fuel delivery mods. That was it.
My point: Cheaper, faster, easier to build and I could drive it daily without having to pay attention to how I was driving it.
While comparing 40 year old builds to today seems stupid, the analogous building of a near-race-spec NA today still compares disfavorably with a forced induction build.
Not trying to talk OP out of anything, just pointing out that there are paths of less resistance with better results.
But would I do it again?
Not a chance.
That build - with big carbs, big RB cam, pistons that cost the equivalent of a week's wages of the average store worker - not me, just an analogy (and that's EACH x 6), clutch & transmission to hold the power and the necessary rear diff/gear work to enable the car to run up in the proper power band range - was exciting but pretty useless except on the 10-15% of roads or track where one could exploit its power. The other 85-90% of the time, the motor was pretty untractable on public roads lugging at any gear above 3rd because the speeds were so low in everyday driving.
That all changed with my other L28 build, putting down an honest ~220whp, while still retaining the stock L-Jet fuel injection, stock drivetrain, and using pump gas. And the important stuff, retaining the general reliability of the entire car to be able to drive it anywhere, anytime. BAE Turbo, modified computer, fuel delivery mods. That was it.
My point: Cheaper, faster, easier to build and I could drive it daily without having to pay attention to how I was driving it.
While comparing 40 year old builds to today seems stupid, the analogous building of a near-race-spec NA today still compares disfavorably with a forced induction build.
Not trying to talk OP out of anything, just pointing out that there are paths of less resistance with better results.
Last edited by MicVelo; Oct 31, 2019 at 03:31 PM.
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From: Colorado
OP, time to sack up and decide if you really want to make $20k worth $3k ...
Ok, everyone knows I'm no HR fanboy but 350 at the wheels should not be THAT bad. A DE yes, you are in bad company, a HR "should" be able to do close to 350 with a 3.7 bottom end, headwork, cams and matching intake and exhaust. I get it, I used to be in that camp, I changed my view on it. Can it be done? Yes! Is it worth it? Depends. As cool and badass as Sasha's car sounds I'm pretty sure you don't want to drive it on the road.
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Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 279
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From: Australia
After 6-7 Chevy motor builds, I switched to sports cars and along that path, built a normally aspirated L28/E31 Z motor and it was extremely gratifying. Put down ~200whp in a time when it's stock counterpart was at 170bhp crank.
But would I do it again?
Not a chance.
That build - with big carbs, big RB cam, pistons that cost the equivalent of a week's wages of the average store worker - not me, just an analogy (and that's EACH x 6), clutch & transmission to hold the power and the necessary rear diff/gear work to enable the car to run up in the proper power band range - was exciting but pretty useless except on the 10-15% of roads or track where one could exploit its power. The other 85-90% of the time, the motor was pretty untractable on public roads lugging at any gear above 3rd because the speeds were so low in everyday driving.
That all changed with my other L28 build, putting down an honest ~220whp, while still retaining the stock L-Jet fuel injection, stock drivetrain, and using pump gas. And the important stuff, retaining the general reliability of the entire car to be able to drive it anywhere, anytime. BAE Turbo, modified computer, fuel delivery mods. That was it.
My point: Cheaper, faster, easier to build and I could drive it daily without having to pay attention to how I was driving it.
While comparing 40 year old builds to today seems stupid, the analogous building of a near-race-spec NA today still compares disfavorably with a forced induction build.
Not trying to talk OP out of anything, just pointing out that there are paths of less resistance with better results.
But would I do it again?
Not a chance.
That build - with big carbs, big RB cam, pistons that cost the equivalent of a week's wages of the average store worker - not me, just an analogy (and that's EACH x 6), clutch & transmission to hold the power and the necessary rear diff/gear work to enable the car to run up in the proper power band range - was exciting but pretty useless except on the 10-15% of roads or track where one could exploit its power. The other 85-90% of the time, the motor was pretty untractable on public roads lugging at any gear above 3rd because the speeds were so low in everyday driving.
That all changed with my other L28 build, putting down an honest ~220whp, while still retaining the stock L-Jet fuel injection, stock drivetrain, and using pump gas. And the important stuff, retaining the general reliability of the entire car to be able to drive it anywhere, anytime. BAE Turbo, modified computer, fuel delivery mods. That was it.
My point: Cheaper, faster, easier to build and I could drive it daily without having to pay attention to how I was driving it.
While comparing 40 year old builds to today seems stupid, the analogous building of a near-race-spec NA today still compares disfavorably with a forced induction build.
Not trying to talk OP out of anything, just pointing out that there are paths of less resistance with better results.