The battle of the axle nut
#1
The battle of the axle nut
My Z has well over 200k on the odo and there are many bits that need a refresh. The current task is to replace the passenger rear hub. And with any job there's always one stuck screw or bolt. This time it's the axle nut. I've spent a few sessions with it using a 2 ft pry bar but end up just spinning the hub. I blow torched for 5-10 minutes and applied plenty of lubricant. Still a no go. So I went out and got an impact gun. I blow torched the bjesus out of it and went at it with the gun. It FINALLY got moving and I got it such that a 3rd of it was off of the axle. But now it's stuck again and no amount of the aforementioned tactics are working.
Mostly I'm venting but it anyone has been here and was able to get it off, I'd welcome some advice. I'm 0 and 3 with this thing.
Update: I've posted removal procedure at the bottom
Mostly I'm venting but it anyone has been here and was able to get it off, I'd welcome some advice. I'm 0 and 3 with this thing.
Update: I've posted removal procedure at the bottom
Last edited by Cracka350; 03-13-2022 at 06:15 AM. Reason: Update
#2
battle-of-the-axle-nut
Hey man I saw your post about this and I wanted to ask if you had tried to tighten the nut and work it back and forth a little at a time? The reason why I ask is I had the same sort of thing happen to me. Unfortunately I wasn't able to get the thing off and had to take everything completely apart and ruin the Axle.☠️ Really a pita but got lucky and found a used one in California at sac city auto parts. If you decide to go that route ask for Ed. Really hope you can have better luck than I did.
#6
Super Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
iTrader: (8)
https://www.ingersollrand.com/en-us/...ches/2235timax
this thing rocks, I snapped 2 breaker bars before I borrowed the impact. Zipped the nut right off with its threads still attached.
this thing rocks, I snapped 2 breaker bars before I borrowed the impact. Zipped the nut right off with its threads still attached.
#7
General & Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Liquid wrench overnight. The bomb.
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350 vert (03-02-2022)
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#8
New Member
Hey man I saw your post about this and I wanted to ask if you had tried to tighten the nut and work it back and forth a little at a time? The reason why I ask is I had the same sort of thing happen to me. Unfortunately I wasn't able to get the thing off and had to take everything completely apart and ruin the Axle.☠️ Really a pita but got lucky and found a used one in California at sac city auto parts. If you decide to go that route ask for Ed. Really hope you can have better luck than I did.
#9
New Member
When you’re applying heat, where are you focusing it, and is this just a little handheld blowtorch?
#10
6 inch cawk is my fave!
iTrader: (3)
Late to the party but I'll tell you when I removed them on a 210k mile G35 I used a breaker bar... Jacked up the car by said breaker bar then tapped on the end of it with a sledgehammer while it was up in the air...
Side note I didn't care about that car at all, and purchased a cheap breaker bar fully expecting it to break. But it worked for me.
Side note I didn't care about that car at all, and purchased a cheap breaker bar fully expecting it to break. But it worked for me.
#11
SUCCESS:
I got it. I went out and bought an impact driver + a fresh 32 mm deep socket. Had to buy the ladder from Advance Auto because the hardware store didnt have it. Gonna post the procedure for future lurkers.
Make sure you have a new nut and cotter pin before you start
1. Blow torch the nut itself for 2 mins. Then spray pb rust blaster or deep creep at the front and back of the nut then wait 5-10 mins.
2. If your torch is propane, torch the nut for 5-10 mins. It's gotta be hot. Lubricate the visible axle thread and quickly move to step 3.
3. Use the impact driver and deep socket to get it moving. If no progress after 10 seconds of trying with the impact gun, add more lubricant and repeat 2-3.
4. If it starts moving slowly, just keep at it. Give the driver a few seconds to cool down so you dont burn it out.
If the nut gets stuck again, lubricate the thread behind it and any other visible thread. Use the driver to screw the nut back on then start again.
The old Nut thread was horrible and the axle thread wasn't looking great, but I'm not replacing the axle. I do however have to take it loose from the dif to continue removing the hub. No way around that. To put the new nut on a damaged axle thread, put it into the deep socket, and by hand only, carefully start working it on, putting a litle force in the direction of the axle.
I got it. I went out and bought an impact driver + a fresh 32 mm deep socket. Had to buy the ladder from Advance Auto because the hardware store didnt have it. Gonna post the procedure for future lurkers.
Make sure you have a new nut and cotter pin before you start
1. Blow torch the nut itself for 2 mins. Then spray pb rust blaster or deep creep at the front and back of the nut then wait 5-10 mins.
2. If your torch is propane, torch the nut for 5-10 mins. It's gotta be hot. Lubricate the visible axle thread and quickly move to step 3.
3. Use the impact driver and deep socket to get it moving. If no progress after 10 seconds of trying with the impact gun, add more lubricant and repeat 2-3.
4. If it starts moving slowly, just keep at it. Give the driver a few seconds to cool down so you dont burn it out.
If the nut gets stuck again, lubricate the thread behind it and any other visible thread. Use the driver to screw the nut back on then start again.
The old Nut thread was horrible and the axle thread wasn't looking great, but I'm not replacing the axle. I do however have to take it loose from the dif to continue removing the hub. No way around that. To put the new nut on a damaged axle thread, put it into the deep socket, and by hand only, carefully start working it on, putting a litle force in the direction of the axle.
#12
New Member
Glad you finally got it off, looks like the end may have been mushroomed from hitting with a hammer though. You’re gonna ruin the new nut if you don’t repair those threads first fling the install.
#13
New Member
iTrader: (6)
Do yourself a favor... Ditch the blue propane bottle and get a yellow MAP gas bottle. Burns much hotter and makes these jobs much easier. Also remember... The nut can't be tight if it's liquid. This is why I have an Acetylene torch.
#15
I’m currently in the same boat my rear passenger axle nut is stuck. And I’m 0/2 with a snapped 2’ breaker bar and a snapped 3’ breaker bar heading to Home Depot for an impact. So thank you, for saving me the time and frustration!
My Z has well over 200k on the odo and there are many bits that need a refresh. The current task is to replace the passenger rear hub. And with any job there's always one stuck screw or bolt. This time it's the axle nut. I've spent a few sessions with it using a 2 ft pry bar but end up just spinning the hub. I blow torched for 5-10 minutes and applied plenty of lubricant. Still a no go. So I went out and got an impact gun. I blow torched the bjesus out of it and went at it with the gun. It FINALLY got moving and I got it such that a 3rd of it was off of the axle. But now it's stuck again and no amount of the aforementioned tactics are working.
Mostly I'm venting but it anyone has been here and was able to get it off, I'd welcome some advice. I'm 0 and 3 with this thing.
Update: I've posted removal procedure at the bottom
Mostly I'm venting but it anyone has been here and was able to get it off, I'd welcome some advice. I'm 0 and 3 with this thing.
Update: I've posted removal procedure at the bottom
The following users liked this post:
bre240z (07-19-2023)
#16
New Member
iTrader: (2)
https://www.northerntool.com/product...ltiplier-28184
This is what you guys need. Cheaper than an impact and makes it very easy to remove any stuck bolt if you can fit it. On a axle nut this would be no issue.
This is what you guys need. Cheaper than an impact and makes it very easy to remove any stuck bolt if you can fit it. On a axle nut this would be no issue.
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