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Looking for mechanical insight. So quick run down I bought the car 2 months ago so I’m still getting familiar with it. It has low miles but the previous owners did zero work to it by the way I seems. 3-4 days after I bought it it threw a random misfire code P0300 so I did all new denso iridium spark plugs and OEM ignitions coils all around. It cleared the code. I’m still hearing a slight tick around cylinder 6 it sounds like. You can’t hear it with the hood down but can hear it barely when you bump the gas before the car is warm. Any ideas?
Does it sound the same day after day? Or is it getting worse?
Do a visual inspection on the oil on your next oil change and look for gold flakes
If you want to replace a few more things that’ll help the engine in tip top shape consider replacing the crank shaft and cam shaft position sensors, also clean your MAF sensor, clean your throttle body, do the throttle body reset and do the idle air relearn.
Does it sound the same day after day? Or is it getting worse?
Do a visual inspection on the oil on your next oil change and look for gold flakes
If you want to replace a few more things that’ll help the engine in tip top shape consider replacing the crank shaft and cam shaft position sensors, also clean your MAF sensor, clean your throttle body, do the throttle body reset and do the idle air relearn.
Its very light sounding it hasn’t gotten worse. it’s inconsistent with RPM. You have to really pay attention to hear it or be under the hood. I notice if I bump from idle to 1250RPM range you can hear it tick a few times but it’s very light. And I appreciate the insight I’m really just trying to get this thing reliable.
If it’s inconsistent with RPM it could be the start of a spun bearing - it’s hard to diagnose an issue based off a paragraph over the internet.
From my experience - Consistent = valve lifter tick / Inconsistent = spun bearing.
A few things to inspect:
I would (now or your next oil change) drain your oil into a clean container (clear plastic jugs would work the best) and let it sit for a week … you can either inspect from the bottom side or gently and slowly pour out most the oil an inspect whats left in the jug.
You could also cut open your oil filter and inspect what’s in the filter -
Last - (after you drain the oil) you could take the lower oil pan off and see what is left in it after you drain the oil.
spun bearings will flake off and look like gold flakes - to this effect:
One symptom of a spun-bearing that you dont have is that it is not getting worse … ususally a compromised bearing will not last long …
I would do the oil inspections to rule out a bearing … if it’s not that than you may need to have someone look at it in person.
If it’s inconsistent with RPM it could be the start of a spun bearing - it’s hard to diagnose an issue based off a paragraph over the internet.
From my experience - Consistent = valve lifter tick / Inconsistent = spun bearing.
A few things to inspect:
I would (now or your next oil change) drain your oil into a clean container (clear plastic jugs would work the best) and let it sit for a week … you can either inspect from the bottom side or gently and slowly pour out most the oil an inspect whats left in the jug.
You could also cut open your oil filter and inspect what’s in the filter -
Last - (after you drain the oil) you could take the lower oil pan off and see what is left in it after you drain the oil.
spun bearings will flake off and look like gold flakes - to this effect:
One symptom of a spun-bearing that you dont have is that it is not getting worse … ususally a compromised bearing will not last long …
I would do the oil inspections to rule out a bearing … if it’s not that than you may need to have someone look at it in person.
Is there a way I could send a video on here? I have video of how it sounds cold and warm.