*Video* Creaking & scraping sound coming from rear on deceleration and coasting
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From: San Diego
*Video* Creaking & scraping sound coming from rear on deceleration and coasting
Trying to figure this one out. Getting a loud scraping and creaking sound from the rear. The sound is synchronized with the wheel rotation. Had this checked out and they pulled the rotor backing plate but that didn't fix it. It only happens during deceleration or coasting at lower speeds. As soon as I hit the throttle it goes away but comes back as it starts to decelerate. Hard to capture on video but it's very loud. Can feel it vibrate through the bottom of the car.
In the video I'm driving in a circle. It gets worse as I change directions. If the pavement is uneven it's even worse. I'm thinking either an axle, wheel bearing or differential bearing. Tough for my mechanic to nail this one down because you have to be driving the car to get it to happen. It doesn't make the sound on the lift.
Video:
In the video I'm driving in a circle. It gets worse as I change directions. If the pavement is uneven it's even worse. I'm thinking either an axle, wheel bearing or differential bearing. Tough for my mechanic to nail this one down because you have to be driving the car to get it to happen. It doesn't make the sound on the lift.
Video:
Last edited by BlueSQ; Mar 8, 2023 at 07:46 PM.
Watched the video, it's hard to tell if this is metal on metal or metal on rubber (bushing) noise. I would closely inspect your rear axles. I had a noise similar to this at one point and it was the axle shafts where they mesh with the hub splines. The axle splines need to be cleaned and greased, overtime they rust and can start to make noise. There's an axle click TSB for this issue, so I would start there. No guarantees this is the cause, but it's a common enough problem to warrant an inspection. You could have a bad wheel bearing or CV-axle joint. Jack up the rear end, grab the wheels and inspect for any play. If they don't feel rock solid, then you have a wheel bearing issue. A damaged axle is harder to verify if all the boots are intact with no signs of grease leaking. Obviously if you have a torn axle boot, then it's safe to say your axle is toast from the grease escaping, if that's the case, replace the axles. Sometimes axle u-joint boots never rip/tear open, but can still develop leaks overtime. If you see globs of grease on the underbody, wheel arches, or wheel barrels in line with the axle boots, then it's safe to say your axles are leaking and should be replaced.
Next I would inspect the rear differential bushings and the driveshaft U-joints. Since this issue does not show itself under load, that tells me it's related to components that shift from slop in the drivetrain/suspension. The OEM rear diff bushing in the subframe frame is fluid filled and they all rip/leak/fail. Replacing the differential bushings is a must do on all Z33s, this one fix reduces and removes a lot of the slop in the drivetrain. While you're inspecting these areas, also make sure your exhaust isn't rubbing on anything (assuming you have aftermarket exhaust). I've seen so many people clock their mid-pipes incorrectly over the rear sway bar and end up with metal on metal contact.
Hope this helps and you get it sorted! Good Luck!
-Icer
Next I would inspect the rear differential bushings and the driveshaft U-joints. Since this issue does not show itself under load, that tells me it's related to components that shift from slop in the drivetrain/suspension. The OEM rear diff bushing in the subframe frame is fluid filled and they all rip/leak/fail. Replacing the differential bushings is a must do on all Z33s, this one fix reduces and removes a lot of the slop in the drivetrain. While you're inspecting these areas, also make sure your exhaust isn't rubbing on anything (assuming you have aftermarket exhaust). I've seen so many people clock their mid-pipes incorrectly over the rear sway bar and end up with metal on metal contact.
Hope this helps and you get it sorted! Good Luck!
-Icer
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 196
Likes: 7
From: San Diego
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 196
Likes: 7
From: San Diego
Watched the video, it's hard to tell if this is metal on metal or metal on rubber (bushing) noise. I would closely inspect your rear axles. I had a noise similar to this at one point and it was the axle shafts where they mesh with the hub splines. The axle splines need to be cleaned and greased, overtime they rust and can start to make noise. There's an axle click TSB for this issue, so I would start there. No guarantees this is the cause, but it's a common enough problem to warrant an inspection. You could have a bad wheel bearing or CV-axle joint. Jack up the rear end, grab the wheels and inspect for any play. If they don't feel rock solid, then you have a wheel bearing issue. A damaged axle is harder to verify if all the boots are intact with no signs of grease leaking. Obviously if you have a torn axle boot, then it's safe to say your axle is toast from the grease escaping, if that's the case, replace the axles. Sometimes axle u-joint boots never rip/tear open, but can still develop leaks overtime. If you see globs of grease on the underbody, wheel arches, or wheel barrels in line with the axle boots, then it's safe to say your axles are leaking and should be replaced.
Next I would inspect the rear differential bushings and the driveshaft U-joints. Since this issue does not show itself under load, that tells me it's related to components that shift from slop in the drivetrain/suspension. The OEM rear diff bushing in the subframe frame is fluid filled and they all rip/leak/fail. Replacing the differential bushings is a must do on all Z33s, this one fix reduces and removes a lot of the slop in the drivetrain. While you're inspecting these areas, also make sure your exhaust isn't rubbing on anything (assuming you have aftermarket exhaust). I've seen so many people clock their mid-pipes incorrectly over the rear sway bar and end up with metal on metal contact.
Hope this helps and you get it sorted! Good Luck!
-Icer
Next I would inspect the rear differential bushings and the driveshaft U-joints. Since this issue does not show itself under load, that tells me it's related to components that shift from slop in the drivetrain/suspension. The OEM rear diff bushing in the subframe frame is fluid filled and they all rip/leak/fail. Replacing the differential bushings is a must do on all Z33s, this one fix reduces and removes a lot of the slop in the drivetrain. While you're inspecting these areas, also make sure your exhaust isn't rubbing on anything (assuming you have aftermarket exhaust). I've seen so many people clock their mid-pipes incorrectly over the rear sway bar and end up with metal on metal contact.
Hope this helps and you get it sorted! Good Luck!
-Icer
I was reading other threads that say despite lack of wheel play it did end up being the wheel bearing. You mention "Since this issue does not show itself under load, that tells me it's related to components that shift from slop in the drivetrain/suspension". I think that's the key component of the mystery here.
The car has stock exhaust. However it has a Bilstein B8 kit with Eibach springs and SPL rear camber arms. This lowered the car more than I would have liked but that's how it ended up. It drives great outside of this issue.
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 196
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From: San Diego
This ended up being both the rear driver side bearing and the hub. I was shown the old assembly after the work was done and it was pretty bad. The bearing had enough play in the hub to damage it and essentially bore it out, so I'm glad I asked them to replace both at once otherwise it would have taken longer.
I had them do some front end work as well (front lower control arms, ball joints, bushings) and now everything handles so much better. But most importantly, that sound is completely gone.
I had them do some front end work as well (front lower control arms, ball joints, bushings) and now everything handles so much better. But most importantly, that sound is completely gone.
Hey Blue,
Thanks for the follow-up post. Getting confirmation on the root cause will help others in the future when researching similar symptoms. I'm super stoked you got it fixed! Rear wheel bearing issues are pretty common on 350Zs, I've had to get them replaced over the years on my 1st Z33. Nissan addressed this issue for the 370Z by beefing up the rear bearings. Z1 motorsports sells an upgrade kit that uses the 370Z wheel bearings (direct bolt-on for 350Zs), doing this requires the replacement of the rear axles though (also direct bolt-on), hence the need for a kit which includes two wheel bearings and both axles. I may consider doing this upgrade when my rear wheel bearings start to go out again, the price is more than reasonable, but they are aftermarket bearings and axles, so I would be a little skeptical about longevity. The reviews are all very positive and Z1 has proven themselves with their in house product R&D over the years, I think it might be worth it.
Anyway, enjoy the Z! New bushings really bring these cars back to life. It's amazing how much of a difference replacing these small components can make. I recently overhauled the struts, springs, rear diff bushings, front and rear sway bar bushings, and added the Gktech diff brace to my Z. The transformation this made to the handling characteristics of my Z was astounding. It really feels like a completely different car (in a very good way of course!).
Cheers!
-Icer
Thanks for the follow-up post. Getting confirmation on the root cause will help others in the future when researching similar symptoms. I'm super stoked you got it fixed! Rear wheel bearing issues are pretty common on 350Zs, I've had to get them replaced over the years on my 1st Z33. Nissan addressed this issue for the 370Z by beefing up the rear bearings. Z1 motorsports sells an upgrade kit that uses the 370Z wheel bearings (direct bolt-on for 350Zs), doing this requires the replacement of the rear axles though (also direct bolt-on), hence the need for a kit which includes two wheel bearings and both axles. I may consider doing this upgrade when my rear wheel bearings start to go out again, the price is more than reasonable, but they are aftermarket bearings and axles, so I would be a little skeptical about longevity. The reviews are all very positive and Z1 has proven themselves with their in house product R&D over the years, I think it might be worth it.
Anyway, enjoy the Z! New bushings really bring these cars back to life. It's amazing how much of a difference replacing these small components can make. I recently overhauled the struts, springs, rear diff bushings, front and rear sway bar bushings, and added the Gktech diff brace to my Z. The transformation this made to the handling characteristics of my Z was astounding. It really feels like a completely different car (in a very good way of course!).
Cheers!
-Icer
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Watched the video, it's hard to tell if this is metal on metal or metal on rubber (bushing) noise. I would closely inspect your rear axles. I had a noise similar to this at one point and it was the axle shafts where they mesh with the hub splines. The axle splines need to be cleaned and greased, overtime they rust and can start to make noise. There's an axle click TSB for this issue, so I would start there. No guarantees this is the cause, but it's a common enough problem to warrant an inspection. You could have a bad wheel bearing or CV-axle joint. Jack up the rear end, grab the wheels and inspect for any play. If they don't feel rock solid, then you have a wheel bearing issue. A damaged axle is harder to verify if all the boots are intact with no signs of grease leaking. Obviously if you have a torn axle boot, then it's safe to say your axle is toast from the grease escaping, if that's the case, replace the axles. Sometimes axle u-joint boots never rip/tear open, but can still develop leaks overtime. If you see globs of grease on the underbody, wheel arches, or wheel barrels in line with the axle boots, then it's safe to say your axles are leaking and should be replaced.
Next I would inspect the rear differential bushings and the driveshaft U-joints. Since this issue does not show itself under load, that tells me it's related to components that shift from slop in the drivetrain/suspension. The OEM rear diff bushing in the subframe frame is fluid filled and they all rip/leak/fail. Replacing the differential bushings is a must do on all Z33s, this one fix reduces and removes a lot of the slop in the drivetrain. While you're inspecting these areas, also make sure your exhaust isn't rubbing on anything (assuming you have aftermarket exhaust). I enjoy original ideas that stand out from the crowd. I typically find inspiration by browsing stock photography. Also, I recently discovered a video of a campfire, which gave me the idea for my surveillance video . It will definitely be cool. I've seen so many people clock their mid-pipes incorrectly over the rear sway bar and end up with metal on metal contact.
Hope this helps and you get it sorted! Good Luck!
-Icer
Next I would inspect the rear differential bushings and the driveshaft U-joints. Since this issue does not show itself under load, that tells me it's related to components that shift from slop in the drivetrain/suspension. The OEM rear diff bushing in the subframe frame is fluid filled and they all rip/leak/fail. Replacing the differential bushings is a must do on all Z33s, this one fix reduces and removes a lot of the slop in the drivetrain. While you're inspecting these areas, also make sure your exhaust isn't rubbing on anything (assuming you have aftermarket exhaust). I enjoy original ideas that stand out from the crowd. I typically find inspiration by browsing stock photography. Also, I recently discovered a video of a campfire, which gave me the idea for my surveillance video . It will definitely be cool. I've seen so many people clock their mid-pipes incorrectly over the rear sway bar and end up with metal on metal contact.
Hope this helps and you get it sorted! Good Luck!
-Icer
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