Hi all! My 07 350z had a speaker go out on driver door some time ago. I grabbed my multimeter and verified that the speaker isn't receiving power. Not driven too often this time of year, so added that to list of future projects. But this past weekend, my driver's window stopped opening/closing. No sound what-so-ever coming from the door when i press the down button or hold the unlock button to roll down both windows. Passinger window opens as normal. No gridning or whining like something is stuck.
We're all well aware of the door motor/regulator issues with this platform. And I'm so thankful to this forum for great resources on DIY-ing my issue with window. But i am curious if anyone has had any issues with wiring into the driver door? Or are these two issues completely random?

Curious for everyone else's thoughts and I'll update this thread I work on both of these issues. Wish me luck!

 

Quick update, just verified that driver side switch does work to roll down the passenger window, and all lights in the door card work as expected.

 

How did you test the speaker with a multimeter? If the multimeter settings are not correct, you won't get any readings. If it's an OEM speaker, it's not uncommon for them to start failing due to age, it's rare for it to be a wiring issue. That being said, it's also within the realm of possibility that the flex joint wiring bundle between the chassis and door frame has developed a break over time and use.

BUT, the fact that your passenger side window is working properly, tells me your wiring is good/intact (at least for the window circuit). Most likely, your driver's door window motor or regulator is seized, OR there's a problem with the switch module (very rare). I would check power to the window motor and see if it's getting battery voltage when you activate the switch. If it is, then it's pretty clear the motor has seized. Now why it seized could be due to worn out brushes or a broken regulator. So be prepared to pull the entire regulator/motor assembly from the door for a close inspection and/or replacement.

Good Luck!
-Icer

 

While you're checking that door speaker, you might want to replace both fronts with higher quality aftermarket ones. I replaced the OEM 6.5" separates with MB Quart DSC-216s almost 20 years ago, and swear they may have been the best and most cost-effective mod. Today, I'd consider a set of Focals with a front amp for some clean power. You won't believe how good they sound!

 

The Window issue was the motor. Replacement works! No update on the speaker, but window is resolved.

 

+ 1 on Focals

Regarding the speaker issue, are you still running the OEM head unit? Is your Z equipped with Bose or Non-Bose?

Note: If you upgraded to an aftermarket head unit, the OEM speakers will not play nice with it. Most aftermarket head units are setup for 4-Ohm speakers, I believe the OEM (non-Bose) speakers are 2-Ohm rated. All this is to say that an aftermarket head unit has the potential to over-drive the 2-ohm factory speakers and blow them (especially if you crank it to 11!). This is why it's always best to upgrade all components as a complete set vs. upgrading bits & pieces separately.
Cheers!
-Icer

 

10 year old Pioneer head unit, but factory non-bose speakers. I thought only the Bose speakers were 2 ohm. Oddly enough I don't think anything is coming out of the driver door tweeter, making me think there may be a head unit issue with front driver-side output.

 

Plugged non-functional speaker from the driverside into the passenger door and it worked. No signal is reaching the driver door speaker.

 

Ok, so either that channel on the factory Bose system has completely gone dead, or you have a wire break somewhere. How to verify the Bose Amp is the issue, I'm not sure. But it should be pretty easy to do a wiring continuity check once you know the endpoints. I've never tinkered with a Z33 Bose system, so I don't know if the harness plugs terminate behind the dash mounted head unit or at some external amplifier.
Good Luck!
-Icer

 

Any update on the issue, Have you solved the problem.

 

Aprreciate the followup. I just grabed my factory head until from my storage and plan to plug it into the wiring harness to determine if my pioneer head unit is the issue.

 

Bringing this back from the dead! Had a track day last week so im back to solving other minor issues.

Pulled the current pioneer stereo, plugged in the original factory radio, and the driver door speaker played just fine. Im not going back to stock, but i am looking at android headunits now that I know the pioneer double din is the issue.

 

I just installed a SONY XAV-AX3200 with Android auto/Apple Car Play not wireless connection but thats what I wanted. Pretty affordable head unit with decent sound and features. Looks good too