I still have it with the wire I ran, should I hook back up the original wire before proceeding to check for the short to ground?

 

Yes, I would put it back to stock as a control so you can pinpoint the source of the fault.
-Icer

 

Okay wiring is back to stock. When checking should I have the ignition on or off? I’m checking connectors infront of abs pump down to abs module correct?

 

When module is connected on stock wiring the fuse for the abs In the IPDM blows. When module is disconnected and new fuse is placed the fuse does not blow. Is this enough to condemn the module as faulty or could it be that the module is completing a circuit which is shorted to ground?

 

Two possibilities...

1) The module is internally damaged causing a short to ground.
2) The module is activating a relay and the load side of the relay has a short.

Which fuse exactly is popping in the IPDM? Can you give me the number and amp rating?

Also, when checking things like continuity and shorts to ground, it's best to have the ignition off. Ultimately it depends on what kind of trace is being done, sometimes it's best to have ignition power on when testing for voltage drop or current carry problems using a test light.

Thanks
-Icer

 

The fuse popping is in the IPDM
it is fuse 83 a 15 amp

I began testing connector E118 with the ignition off doing a continuity test to ground. I started on pin 7 and got a reading of 23 m ohms this was with connector E 47 connected once I disconnected connector E 47 pin seven in connector E118 give me a reading of 0 ohms

 

That sounds right. Pin 7 on E118 is a relay control wire. The resistance value you saw was including the coil in the relay, which is why it disappeared when you pulled plug E47 from the VDC relay box. I don't know what the resistance spec is on the relay but 23mOhms is pretty big, no smoking gun yet.
-Icer

 

Check pin 1 for short to ground. That is your ignition power (+12V) and runs to fuse #82 in the IPDM, which should be 10A. I don't see #83 mentioned in the circuit, but checking with my AI tool to confirm.
-Icer

 

[img alt="This is the diagram I was referencing when mentioning the blown fuse. Sorry if it differs from FSM.


Here’s continuity test result of pin 1 on harness E118 to chassis ground :"]https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z.com-vbulletin/920x2000/img_5560_6f87ab77733e98ee597980449b5bab353c034429.png[/img]
This is the diagram I was referencing when mentioning the blown fuse. Sorry if it differs from FSM. Here’s continuity test result of pin 1 on harness E118 to chassis ground :

254.4 M OHMS

 

Seemed to fail to upload - regarding fuse

 

Is the fuse on 82 or 83 currently popped or removed?

Also, looking in my FSM copy (pg section), Fuse 83 is not used to power the ABS system, it's used to power the the TCM (transmission control module) & backup lamp relay. You problem may not be related to the ABS control module or Actuator/pump. It's probably your backup lamp relay or the TCM. That or there's a short at the IPDM.


Fuse #82 and #83 - both should be 10A

IPDM Type-1 layout

 

My mistake it’s fuse 82, second one down on top right section

Fuse was present and not blown when testing.

Fuse does not blow unless key is turned on, original wiring is connected and the abs module is hooked up. If the module is unhooked and I turn key it does not blow the fuse.

 

Ok, the power steering control unit is also on that fuse (#82). Need to look into that. So far it doesn't appear that you have a short in the wiring from the control side (ABS Control module). But there could be a short between the IPDM and ABS Actuator somewhere or something with the PS Control Unit, which I didn't even know these cars had. It could also be an internal short in the IPDM or internal short on the ABS control module. More testing needs to be done on the powers and grounds between these modules/actuators and the IPDM.
-Icer

 

I will continue tomorrow. Was doing this on the side of my regular work. Clocked out for the night. I want to thank you again for your continued assistance, I wouldn’t be able to do it without your help.

Correct me if I’m wrong but what do you think about following the wire off the IPDM? The one that’s grounded and following that back to wherever it leads? Would you be able to provide that? I also attempted to scan the car and was unable to. This is new as I was able to scan it earlier this week when fixing a check engine light.

Even then I was unable to communicate with the abs module but was still able to communicate with pcm. Now I am unable to communicate with anything. I checked fuse for the data link and it was fine. I wanted to pull historical DTCs to see if I could get any info on the ABS or even the power steering but I was unable to even do that.

 

For the communication issue, I think you need to re-trace your steps. That large white connector that was mistaken for the ABS Control module for example, that was disconnected but did you reconnect it right? That looks like a main body harness, probably carrying circuits from the ECU (passenger side) over to the driver's side where the BCM and components of the ignition system live.

The focus needs to shift to the wiring linked to fuse #82. It's blowing, that much is confirmed, the question is why? We suspect a short to ground, but is the short a wiring fault or an internal failure at a module or relay.

Unfortunately, the home brew AI tool I was using is not accessible to me at the moment. So tracing that circuit will need to be done the old fashioned way.
-Icer

 

Check the fuse 82 pins for a short to ground. This is your ignition power feed. See diagram from FSM.
-Icer


VDC power diagram

 

Thanks for the follow up. Ended up being that the module was internally shorted. I did retrace my steps. I purchased a power probe short and open tool which made things so easy. Wire traced good all the way to module. Went ahead and replaced and issue is gone. No more lights on the dash. The engine I just put in it started knocking though lol. I hate this car.

I want to thank you for all of your help. I learned a lot from this and from you. Wouldn’t have been able to do it without your help.

 

Awesome to hear you solved the problem. The "Power Probe" is an amazingly powerful tool. I purchased one years ago (version 3), it helped make short work of troubleshooting a power mirror issue I had with a 3rd Gen 4Runner (Was it the wiring, the switch module, or a motor fault? Turned out to be corrosion in the door switch). It's also great applying power to various things like power seat motors, electronic e-brakes, etc.

Sorry to hear about the engine troubles, that really sucks. I hope the place you sourced the engine from is willing to help you out.
Good Luck!
-Icer